Here it is, as complete as I can make it..STICKY?? Also I want to thank Josh @ Import Image for Fast shipping and great product!!! These are all MY instructions form MY experimenting...I made these instruction off of personal knowledge I am not responsible for damage you or your car may obtain while following my instructions. This was performed on an 06 STI...I don't know and can't promise other vehicles will be similar This is for wiring a boost, EGT, and oil pressure gauge into the clock pod area on top of the dash Post #10 is completed look...here mine are on youtube, just posted
Step 1...get ready for at least a couple hours worth of work, make sure you have plenty time and a nice open place to work. General Tools needed: socket set:10mm, 12mm, 14mm flat head screwdriver fillips head screwdriver soldering iron solder stretch rubber electrical tape(ace hardware) heat shrink for small wires wire clipper lots o' zip-ties thread lock/jb Weld Specific extras/tools: 11/32" High speed steel Drill Bit 1/8-27NPT 11/32" TAP Tools that might help A welder Extra vacuum hose zip-lock bags for bolts a heater for the garage ****Make sure you order the sandwich oil filter adapter from prosport for the fuel pressure/temp gauge******* Also you might as well change your oil while your at it...otherwise buy two quarts of oil to be safe Step 2 Lift that dang car up in the air..plenty enough for you to monkey around and get comfortable under there remove the plastic skidplate...theres a couple bolts and poppy things on there..EASY OK...now we are gonna do the EGT gauge First Take off the upper heat shield on the drivers side header---it has 3 bolts, they are all 12mm then remove the driver's side portion of the header, i believe these are all 14mm bolts...there are 5 of them..2 on the connection to the crossover and 3 to the block pull it out and set it down...smile
Now you are gonna want to drill a hole 6" down the cyl.3...you want to do it on the outside the manifold..ie on the fender side there is a little circular tab...drill and tap it!(it is the exact size!)
Step 3 Now you may choose to use threadlock or you may choose to weld...I did both!*****make sure you remove the sensor from the bung if you weld so you don't hurt it...just weld the bung!
Step 4 re-install the header portion with the sensor removed(make sure the bung is on though....test fit the heat shield again and mark it and cut a hole in it where the bung is located so you can run the sensor and wire! Now I painted mine black to clean up the look and stenciled on EGT just so if anybody else climbs under there they know whats up...its just convenient!
Step 5 Now..as far as the oil pressure goes you have two options...buy the sandwich adapter...or buy the plug that goes where the oil galley plug goes(which is located under the inlet to the turbo on the block...its a 1/8" hex bolt!--I chose the sandwich..its easier..a LOT EASIER!... so unscrew your oil filter and put the sandwich on(rubber side up touching the engine)-then bolt up a new filter(its basically a spacer....) The sandwich has 4 holes to use for what you will, oil pressure, temp etc.... and 4 block off bolts for what you don't use! Your oil sender will screw directly into one of the 4 holes! This unit WILL screw directly on and will have plenty of clearance to run the lines to...nothing will need to be moved or cut or bent!
Step 6 The boost gauge wiring....cut a straight line on the vacuum hose that goes from the oem/aftermarket-diverter/BOV....install the T-fitting supplied with kit....install about 7 inches of vacuum hose off of the 3rd hole...place the little metal air filter supplied on the other end..then take the rest of the tubing and attach that to the other end of the little air filter...
Important NOW__IMPORTANT___ STEP 7 RUNNING WIRES there is a hole about 2 inches to the left of the steering rack underneath the pedals on the floor of the driver's side foot well...rip that little piece of rubber out and it creates about a circular 1.5" hole...perfect for running wires to the engine... the hole pops out in the engine right below the brake booster! ****I tried running wires through the engine a million different ways...do what you are comfortable with..try to keep all of them away from hot stuff(obviously!) Step 8 Ok.....Rip your dash apart NOW!!!!! Don't break anything! start the snaking process...NOTE: it helps to run a wire Down and tape it to the leads and drag it all back up through the dash so that you are not trying to push wires up through....
Step 9 Now You probably already have put the gauges in the pod(I have an ATI) so flip them around and look at the back each gauge has a power hook-up on either side of it(so two per gauge) This is so you can Daisy chain the gauges together and only have to tap once for power...not 3 times!!! Then on the last gauge take the supplied power cord that has 4 colors that are raw wire on one side The colors will be black, white, orange, red ( for amber/white gauges) or black, white, green and red(white/green gauges) Take the leads of the wires and connect them to the back of the gauges! NOTE: You are probably like" hey, how the hell do i connect the vacuum hose...there is a solenoid included in the kit...plug the vacuum hose on one end and mount the damn thing where you like....then connect the sensor to the back of the gauge with the others!
Step 10 Time to wire that power...... so here is the run down on wires....it is 100% correct PROSPORT--SUBARU CLOCK WIRING Black--Black Red--Blue with Red stripe Orange/Green--White with Red stripe White--Yellow with Blue stripe Then solder and wrap and heat shrink and cover it safely....DONE Now put it back together and enjoy!:biggrin: ***** Video of them in my car on youtube*********....
thread locker will burn up right away. JB weld...well that SHOULD too but i used some on the brass fitting and it never burned up which is weird.
I noticed when I re-wired it after driving it for a day the threads were for sure still locked but all the red had been burned black and charred---still it did its job
I wasn't going to say anything yet, cause I'm not 100% sure, but I am pretty sure I will be keeping the car:biggrin:
Stop dropping money into it everyday so you can keep it then. Oh and did you get that orange wheel and jazz.
you don't need any type of threadlock on the egt bung, its an NPT thread pitch which means that it'll have a self tightening effect as you make it tighter, just a suggestion.
True, however we all know that that doesn't always work...It was the correct stuff but it just wasn't tight enough....so i welded
Whenever I tap something with an NPT thread, I check it as I go because I want it to get as tight as I want it to. Its always easier to tap it a little more. Going back isn't.
exactly, I know, that is a very good basic idea...i kinda was planning on welding anyways so I jumped the gun a bit!
Good luck with the electric boost gauge. I am on my third sending unit. I am going to order a mechanical one next week.
1. did you have prosport? 2. Where is thesolenoid or sending unit located(where did you mount it? where mine is located i could replace it twice a day inside my car without it bothering be..but I would like to not have to
Mine is under the hood. I have it mounted by my fuse box. I am unsure why they die and prosport doesn't know why either.
Any more reviews or suggestions on this install? After everything looks good we can move the install part of this to the " Tech, Tips, Newb Info" area.
