If I wanted to take my EJ25 n/a in my 99 Outback and then I wanted to turbo it. Nothing fancy just using stock components, what MY parts and what items would I need? Intercooler? Turbo? up/down pipes? Hoses? Exhaust? How would the factory computer go? injectors? This isn't so much....you will need such and such for performance, but simply, what will make it work for ****s and giggles?
turbo crossmember, a stock wrx turbo,stock intercooler, dp, upipe, biger injectors, new exhaust manifold, wrx intake and inlet hose, posibly a bigger fuel pump? and a way to control boost, but I heard if you dont run past like 8lbs????? i think your fine, ask eric he could def. help you out!
first and foremost, with a 2.5 dohc i wouldnt turbo it unless its had head gaskets done. and if it has, i wouldnt run more then 5 lbs, basicly everything you listed will work for 5 lbs, mine has worked (2.2) with 8-10 lbs daily for a while now. i have much info if you want it
About 20K miles ago I had the headgaskets replaced and the heads totally replaced...thanks chilsons for the $3300 repair bill. FU to the dealership that tried to make me pay for it after only having it for two weeks. AWDimprezaL.....I'm very intersted in what information you have for me. I guess in reality, it doesn't even need to be be Subaru parts if I can get them cheaper but I do pay invoice price for Subaru parts.
your best bet would be to get some kind of tiny turbo, like an older turbo legacy one (its what im running) a forester XT top mount, because it fits the best you can use your stock headers, but you will hafta make a custom up and down pipe, you will need somthing to tap the oil pressure sender for oil feed, and you will need to find a place for the oil return, tapping the oil pan will work for this, coolent feed is as easy as bypassing your throttle body.if you do plan on doing this i can walk you through the basics, the hardest part is gonna be the up and downpipe fabbing, and the rising rate FPR installation.
most n/a 2.5 direct turbo kits suggest 6-8 lbs but no more, you shouldn't need a new fuel pump, I would be that half the members of this forum have bigger injectors then you're running laying around. you can grind your n/a crosmember to work just fine. build your own UP/DP etc, used boost control is cheap. used stock TMIC and turbo should be cheap. I would say time consuming, but not that expensive.
i tell you what, if i knew how much of a difference 5-8 psi would make on my little car i would have done it alot sooner then i did.
what year legacy is your turbo from? This needs to be a daily driver, so if they I can rup upto 8psi...would I be better off at 6 or 7? I know I can put everything on except for the fabrication for the up and down. What safety concerns do I run into if I grind the current the crossmember? How difficult is it to replace the current crossmember? What year TMIC do I need to be looking for?
Go to Chesney's auto salvage out rice lake rd. They've got a couple turbo legacys out there (no motors of course). They'll sell you a crossmember for $50. I'm not shure if Jeremy (Deride) still has one of those VF11's layin around still. If you got a factory turbo exhaust manifold, you could use a standard uppipe and downpipe. I'm guessing thats a SOHC motor, so tapping the head for oil and coolant isn't as easy as the DOHC or 2.2 heads.
ooOOoo I'm getting excited at the thought of getting another turbo vehicle. Haven't been able to afford one since I left Australia.....
dont use the TB coolant lines to feed the turbo. those lines are TINY! they are like 1/8". I would recommend using the heater core lines to feed the, it is just as easy and provides much more coolant to the turbo (and hotter heat in the winter lol). you can use a stock wrx downpipe if you make a custom uppipe. this will allow you to keep you same x-member and headers saving you $$$, and time. for an oil send go from teh oil pressure sending unit, and return it ether to a valve cover or to the oil pan. this returnb is dependant on where the turbo sits in teh car. the biggest part in making the turbo kit run safely is the engine management. which will allow you to control your injectors (stock ej25 injectors will hold up to some boosting) and most importantly allow you to control timing to prevent detonation. i would highly recommend going to RS25.com and looking in the turbo forum there are tons of people running EJ25 w/ forced induction.
t/b coolent lines are plenty, do you know how much they flow? one of mine came loose and emptied my cooling system in less then a minute
well, basicly, its alot of work, with good payoff, and as long as you run good gas and 5-7 psi you probably wont get into trouble, the up and down pipes are going to be the toughest to make, but anyone with cutting and welding knowlege will be able to do it for you, most auto parts stores will have the peices you need, i have alot too, you'll need lots of extra hose for running coolant lines, oil returns, ect.
so, the biggest parts I'm going to need will be VF11 TMIC BOV? Boost management Which of these do you have and prices for them so I can take them to my ball and chain...
the managment and injectors are up to you, i have neither, but i have a smaller motor, and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
when you are running a higher compression motor like a 2.5l the management is a good idea. if you think the TB lines are good enough thats up to you, but i know that it will be a pain getting fittings to convert those tiny ~1/8" lines up to ~3/4" or whatever for the turbo seriously it is so easy to tap into the heater core it is unbelievable. a stock BOV will be plenty for your low boost application. IIRC the oem bov is good to 22psi. otherwise a BOV is just extra $$ to spend. for an EM you are pretty limited unless you want to go standalone. your options as far as i know are the perfect power SMT6, or the greddy emanage. neither are really cheap. also on a safety aspect you might look into some gauges, AFR, EGT and boost. are helpful for tuning and making sure it doesn't blow up on you.
I meant the back of the passenger side head is easy to tap (ie, drilling a hole using a TAP to put threads in). It has the spots just like on my old EJ22E heads, where they would have been tapped at the factory. On my turbo EJ22 heads, those spots have been drilled and there is a plate that goes over it. The oil is especially easy. For teh coolant though, you have to drill in a ways. The DOHC heads have been much more popular to put on an EJ22T block for this reason, even though the SOHC heads flow almost as well. I'd consider the single cam heads cause i'd only need buy to cams, but others have found the NA cams in the DOHC heads actually work really well in a heavily boosted application. Mark Ramirez (xephyr) is the man. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=686942&highlight=cams
if its done right though you can run around 10psi. there are several people on RS25 who run 10psi on EJ25s.
As far as EM goes, the MAF Tanslator Pro is a nice option. A buddy of mine is using it on his built Tleg with decent results. It also has really nice boost control, so you don't need to buy that. If you couple it with a wideband, you have a pretty powerful setup. Plus, its only $400.
lol, anyway of doing it cheaper? I have a wife and a kid to feed on a shoestring budget but I know I can peice this together over a period of time.
it is very possible to do this cheap. but the cheap way is not the best way. if you want reliable be prepared to spend a bit more. Cost wise you can do it right for under 2000, but it will take alot of scrounging and hard work. i made my kit for about 2100, and that included alot of stuff. heres a list of what i was able to get for my $$$ Deadbolt rebuilt PnPed TD04 w/ 90* inlet 5PSI wastegate actuator 3" Helix bellmouth DP (new) Custom 2" uppipe Custom 3" catback WRX TMIC TXS RFL BOV Tapped oil pan Tuner Toys oil send Legacy Turbo injectors/fuel rails Perfect Power SMT6 (new) Perfect Power 2.5Bar map sensor (new) Innovate XD-01 Wideband gauge kit (new) Mad Dad EGT kit (new) Tons of misc fittings/hose clamps/hoses/new gaskets plus more stuff i cant remember
^true that. A car may be fast, reliable, and/or cheap. Pick two. The MafTPro is a cheaper /better option than a PerfectPower/E-Manage. Trying to turbo a phase I 2.5 on a "shoestring budget" really is not in your best interest if reliability is a factor.
Fail engrish at school? If you read what I said, I'm happy to spend money to do this for reliability but I'm not open to spending a butt load of money on parts that are totally useless and I'm more then happy to buy used parts if they are in good condition. Now, I fail to see how that is a shoestring budget whilst neglecting reliability. Also.....whats the title of the thread? Is it.."I'm going to turbo my car" or is is "amuse me"...it's the latter. I don't know if I'm going to do this I would love to. But I'm also considering purchasing a used wrx. /thread
sorry about the above post...it was pre-coffee. I stil think what I said is correct, just didn't mean to put it like that. LOL
I've got 2 sets of EJ22T heads laying around, a turbo header with a small hole in it, 2 up-pipes, 2 intake manifolds, 2 sets of turbo legacy injectors etc. Just tell me what you need ;o
Yeah, notice the post time. St. patty's day, I'm sure you get the idea. My engrish goes down the tubes at that point. A good option could be an EJ22E block for cheap, a set of the Tleg heads from Jeremy, and the exhaust manifold. You'd be pretty well set up, with all the coolant and oil plumbing already taken care of, and a spare motor to boot. That block would be fine with mild boost.
I think it'd be about a horse apiece. $50 for head gaskets, but a much easier time with oil/coolant feed and return. The motor would be ready before taking the car down. The real time consuming part could be wiring, depending on the management strategy. A RRFPR would be easy, and cheap.
the wiring is not an issue. Before I got into car sales I was an Automotive Electronics Technician....I could almost do it blindfolded and still not destroy anything. If I used a RRFPR would I need any other form of EM?
^^ i dont, but once again, not all cars are the same, for your setup 5 psi and a rising rate FPR i would guess you would be safe, so long as it was intercooled, and ran on good gas.
^ you could get by without an EM by using a RRFPR. however i would still recommend getting a EM for safety and tunability. The RRFPR will allow more fuel to reach the injectors. so it will help make sure you dont go lean under boost. if you had a EM or a way to scale the injectors you could actually control the injectors and add/remove fuel throughout the rpm range allowing for more safety (adding fuel) or tuning for more power (leaning out) or fixing and possible over fueling issues (RRFPR shoots out too much fuel). in the end a RRFPR will allow you to run boost safer but it still will not let you touch ignition timing, you need a EM to do this. This is a major part of running safely cause you can retard timing to prevent/stop det. keep in mind Erik's motor has lower compression (more leeway before det) and also last i heard he was trying to blow up his motor ;-)
true story, though the situation has been updated to not wanting to kill the motor, rather seeing how long it lives.
Ok, so a T04 just kinda fell into my hands today....well, it will when I go pick it up. So, this idea may just work. I will use my stock motor and run it between 4-5psi just for osme extra huff and puff....anyone who knows these cars knows that all extra huff and puff is welcomed.
it will be fine, run good gas, maybe get a rising rate FPR w/g pressure on a tdo4 is around 5-6 psi you should be fine on wastegate, if you feel like you need less you could probably screw the w/g arm out about 4 turns, any questions PM me, i rock the non managment 9-11 psi ej22E 172 whp 208 tq
TRUBLU, did you end up getting that turbo? Theres someone SLi selling TD04. I'm sure you can get it cheaper than what he wants for it. Also at the begining of this thread a concern was blowning your HG's. You can get Cometic MLS gaskets or you can get some copper HG's ($190), those thing won't pop on you. Then you have to worry about the next weakest thing blowing. You can also get block protecting rings (almost like sleeving the deck. Even with just the MLS gaskets I'm sure you can raise the bar a little bit.
I pick up the turbo tonight. It' needs a rear seal and a W/G actuator but it's costing me a beer. So I don't mind having to rebuild it. Considering it has no shaft play. I'm not really concerned about the HGs as they entire heads and gaskets were replaced about 30K ago. AWDimprezL....as I start collecting bits and pieces I will be contact with you for sure.
