When i got my car tuned at DB i was talkin to shane and he said that its hard to get a lot more boost on the stock VF39 due to a boost solenoid issue. I am going to try and get as much out of the stock turbo set up as possible and am going to be getting another tune in the future with a few more mods. Is a new boost solenoid a good idea or is it unnecessary? Thanks Andrew
GM boost control solenoid is a big improvement. What kind of numbers are you getting. I have done the same thing you are going for. VF39 with injectors, BCS, fuel pump, intake, exhaust.....
after the tune i was at 250.6 wheel and 271 torque. Thats without the injectors, pump, or alky(he he). I was lookin into prodrives boost solenoid. Is it worth the 90 bucks?
^^^ exactly... That sounds about right. Look at all my graphs here and I bet they look a lot like yours. http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13453 I have everything I have done in that thread with dynos for comparison.
Here is where I got mine. Not sure the part numbers. You need the solenoid and a connector cable. Think it cost about 45 or so total. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ EDIT: Here is what you need. This thread has everything. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870619
wow looks like you and me are doing the exact same thing. spool spool spool FTW!! my car will never see excess of 90mph or so since all i'm planning on doing is auto x and since its the stock block and i plan on really hitting the tracks hard this summer, a new turbo is just not a good idea reliability wise and the insti-spool from the stocker will be verynice. but yea good lookin journal man! I'm going to have my new injectors/pump and headers put in soon and then going to get another tune at db (maybe with the alky) and we'll see. But looks like a new solenoid is in order. Thanks guys
I didn't see EWG on your list. I would also coat and/or wrap everything. Just my .02 if you want to max that turbo out. If you already have those things then nevermind :biggrin:
i will be wrapping the headers when i get them. as for as an ewg setup goes, that is a possibility. would all the mods needed for that be just weld the internal flapper shut or what. EWG are completly new to me so sorry if i sound like a noob. What would the ewg do as far as lag?
EWG you need an up-pipe and tial 44mm external gate. If you go on NASIOC the UR kit(up-pipe and tial) can be had for a very reasonable price and the up-pipe is already coated.
If you want to do a bit of autocrossing I'd advise getting to know SCCA classing a bit too. Your car is still good for B Street prepared class (since you are changing boost) but an ext. wastegate will put it into SM, which is a very unlimited class. Also, FWIW you could not get the bcs solenoid and run a stock boost/higher timing/fuel corrected map and run in Street Touring Unlimited which is a street tire class that the car would be more competitive in. Just giving some suggestions.
Yup, the internal gate would be tack-welded shut. As far as increases goes, you should see much greater gains in the top end. :biggrin:
i know se7enrex's sounds like pure sex when it opens. ayways, what do you guys think about the classes. i dont want to be getting owned in a class that my car is not up to par in so should i stay with the IWG and sacrafice the little extra power to be more competitive in that class??
I dunno anything about the classes. If you want the most hp out of that turbo that would be extremely helpful to you. With all those mods even without the EWG you'll be plenty fast....but then once you get used to it you'll wonder...hmm should I have purchased the EWG and had x more horsepower?
If you want to be in street touring: -Most suspension parts are legal. As long as it doesn't change a stock mounting point. One odd thing is anti lift kits are not legal as they relocate teh front suspsension pickup points. -As far as your power goes a TBE is ok, but needs to contain one catalytic converter in the factory location. Catback with stock DP is ok. Must keep stock turbo and IC, can add a CAI. As far as tuning, timing and boost are ok, boost must remain stock. No tranny changes are permitted save for a short shifter. Any gauges and instrumentation you want. -looks wise body kits are ok, no replacement of body parts with lightweight panels (carbon fiber hoods and trunks basically, no aftermarket fenders) -STREET TIRES are run in this class. this makes it a much more level playing field for you if you aren't willing to buy race tires. Tires on AWD vehicle must be 245 or less. Any wheels you want that will fit >245 tires. brakes must remain stock, any pads and fluid you want. for B Street Prepared: Same as all above except: -unlimited boost tuning allowed -Any intercooler you want -Water injection is legal -Full TBE is allowed with no cats -Race tires allowed -Big brake kits allowed -somewhat looser restrictions on weight removal -you cant make any wastegate changes Street Mod: -ANY engine from same mfg. allowed -ANY transmission allowed -Unlimited boost/turbos/whatever yo can afford -silly wheels (as wide as you can fit under the car) -much more freedom in chassis lightening/body stuff -EWG would be allowed in this class essentially a good SM car is not really a street car. As you can imagine you can spend a lot of $ on a SM car, and as such, they tend to be very, very fast. You probably won't do great comparitively there, but i did it in a vastly underprepped car and i still have fun. I was only using 225 street tires, a stock JDM engine with a stock turbo! (I was in SM due to engine swap, all engine swap cars are at minimum in SM) There are very good drivers in STU but your car will work the best the cheapest there and there is a good group of other drivers to compare skills with. BSP is pretty wide open, not many competing there and not well prepped cars. I will be running a ESP WRX next year, but the WRX and STi are in different SP and ST classes. (WRX=ESP/STi=BSP, WRX=STX/STi=STU) your car isnt competitive in SM, but then again nothing that isn't well developed or at least had a big hunk of money thrown at it is. also a great quote from multi time national champ pat washburn (guy who also does the novice school) "you can have the car you like or the car that's competitive for your class. very rarely are they the same thing" basically each class has one or two or three cars that are going to be the best for it and each has a certain level of prep to be the most competitive. you just need to know where the boundaries are and decide what you;d like out of your car. Unles you're willing to put a lot of dedication into your driving and money into your car you;re not going to be nationally competitive in any class except STU or BSP and those classes cost at least $10-$20k in total development and parts costs to be at peak competitive form, which you;re probably not going to want to bother with. so jsut decide what kind of car you want and then deal with the classing later if you just want o do it for fun for a while, f you think you might want to get involved more seriously you can alwyas take a few parts off and sell them if you want to move classes.
You need to seriously consider how much you are going to autocross. It is kind of rediculous to limit yourself to certain mods (especially when you want them!) because of a classing issue that you are going to run across a couple of times a year.....and then you are wishing that you had that EWG the other 99.99999% of the time you are driving the car on the street. Honestly, you should not let the classes get in the way of how you want to mod your car.
i honestly want to get REALLY into autoxing next summer. I'm going to be putting a good amount of money into a good set of coilovers. I do however want to stay with the stock turbo because i dont want to completely own my engine. i was thinking a 20g but the way i'm going to be ripping the car next summer i just dont know if its a good idea reliability wise. I know i shoudnt limit my mods the the classes but i want to have a competive car in the class i am in. Thats why i dont know if i should try to squeez the extra x amount of power out of my turbo with an EWG setup because i dont know if it would really be worth it. I dunno, someone convince me to go with a 20G!!
Well, to be honest... It's pretty unlikely that somebody in their first year of autocrossing will be competitive in their class to the point that they are hoping to finish the season in the top 3 in points. You are going to have a better chance if you spend the $$$ on suspension stuff and TIRES. Good luck, and more importanly, HAVE FUN!
oh haha i dont expect to finish in the top 3 or whatev. strictly to have fun. I just want to be in a class that acuratly reflects the mods for my car so i dont look like i cant drive worth a damn based on my times haha. Plus, i do want to have that little bit of competitivness in it and know that i have an equal car as those around me. I think i'll end up staying with the stock setup and see how the summer goes. I wont lose any sleep over the EWG setup. Plus, i'm sure if i spend enough time around se7enrex's car it will end up convincing me otherwise. Nows the time to focus on suspension and getting it ready for spring. Thanks for all the input guys
well, the deal basically is that if you want to autocross you accept that you either fit the car into a class or you dont. It will still be fun to drive without an external wastegate and the fun that wastegate could be giving you will be forgotten when you spent that money on racing and not just going after some dyno number. He seems sincere about wanting to autocross ad people are in his situation all the time. And there have been people who have walked into the novice school and been competitive immediately. IMO he should make the car an STU setup for a year, see how he likes it then do whatever from there. plenty of suspension stuff you can buy that will be good for later, limited ability to add power but the cheapest and most competitive class for the car (actually probably stock class would be more competitive but doesnt sound like a stock class type of person, seems to have teh mod bug.) but to be brutally honest, its never going to be a competitive SM car and thats what it would be if you changed the turbo. But ther are plenty of people like me with cars in SM that arent any where near close to prepped that jsut drive to have fun too.e
hey for the street b prepared, can i throw in my new injectors and pump? I am not going to let the classes govern what i do anymore but i'm just seeing what class my car will be in with all my stuff. i came to the conclusion, go big or go home!!
aight well then forget that. I'm going all out then. I'm going to try to get the most out of my stock turbo and compete as much as i can this summer and then maybe try to save up for a built short block... if i can afford it haha, but that would not be till next summer at least.
And you can still run your '06 in ESP? I feel sorry for any of the 2.0 WRX guys who might run in that class, lol. I figured the 2.5 would bump it up to DSP.
...Oh yeah? We've got...um...well...Ok, I think we've got better seats. I always thought the 02-03 seats were more supportive than the 04+, but I'm a skinny prick too Other than that I'll concede that you guys get a lot of stuff stock that we have to modify for but it's not like we're driving Yugos around
yep, headers are fine in BSP. Up pipe isn't necessary on an STi, i havent seen much thtat conclusively proves it does anything, but you are still allowed to change it in SP classes or ST classes. as for the 2006 wrx in ESP, its pretty much expected to dominate over the 2.0l WRX since it does have power and gearing advantages and a better steering rack. running full tilt on the td04 the 06 produces more power and torque.
