Most shops use a pressure bleeder that clamps onto the master cylinder after you suck as much as you can out of it. It then forces new fluid thru the lines, and you crack all 4 bleeders until new fluid flows thru. VERY good thing to do at least every 30k miles.
Oh yeah, Dot3 or Dot4 fluid is good (4 has higher heat ranges wet/dry than 3), DO NOT USE Dot5, its silicone based and won't absorb water. Plus, it won't mix with any other kind of brake fluid.
you can just bleed your brakes. I used ATE super blue brake fluid. As the old fluid (yellowish) flushed out the fluid turned green then blue. Then I moved on to the next brake. Bleed them in this order FP-RD-FD-RP, where P=passenger and D=Driver.
When we did mine, we didn't want the fluids to mix by applying pressure, so we let gravity do the work. Open all four bleed screws, make coffee, hang around and chat, top of reservoir, chat some more, repeat as necessary. As each bleeder drips a definite line of blue, stop it off. Once all four are done, then bleed as normal, RD-RP-FD-FP. You start as far from the ABS box as you can, and work your way closer to it. Of course, this method is true for ATE Super Blue fluid. If you use just another yellow fluid, it's tough to see the blue dripping out. ATE also does an identical fluid in yellow, so going between the blue and the yellow is easy, and it doesn't matter if it mixes as it's exactly the same stuff. Stuart.
Also, you may want to cycle your abs a couple times and then re-bleed. Otherwise the old fluid is still in the ABS even after everything runs clean from your normal bleeding. I'm going to do mine when I swap out my suspension since my lines will be coming off anyway.
Yep, ATE Typ 200 = Yellow ATE Super Blue. Rumour has it that Courtney Truck Service in Eden Prairie stocks both flavours. Stuart.
There is fluid that sits in your ABS pump but does not get cycled through unless the ABS is actually activated. Bleeding the brakes, then cycling the ABS and then refilling/rebleeding will flush that out.
Deversified in Burnsville also sells both of them. You will also get the mnsubaru discount through them. Check out the brake gb thread> Russ
This is the bit I don't get. Does it mean going out, getting up to speed, and slamming the anchors on, or is there a way to do this with the car up on the lift ? Stuart.
Yeah, if you have a scantool. lawl. I know GM has an "automatic bleed" thing that runs the ABS pump for up to 10 minutes or something like that. It actually purges out most of the air, too. Pretty sweet stuff.
Yeah, pretty much got to go out and slam'em. But look at it this way, you could find a place to get all the crazy out and get the abs cycled and the pads bedded all at the same time. I don't know of a legal-er way of doing it. But if people are doing 3rd gear pulls while street tuning, stabbing on the brakes can't be that bad, can it? At least that's what I'm telling myself. :ugh: edit: Here goes the white papers that I'm basically regurgitating here. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml
Well, you don't want to go out and just stab the brakes to bed them in. You want to heat cycle them a couple of times before you really get into them. Russ
Hey im bringing this back from the dead. Looking for input of how to purge old fluid from the ABS unit if it does not/cannot function anymore? I just got some braided lines and super blue. Sounds like i should crack all 4 open and let the old fluid drain. Should i then drain the resv., fill with blue, and bleed the secondary and primary lines from the master to the ABS unit using the two screws on the unit? Then do the 4 corners in the proper order?
