I am going to order a set of Prodrive springs. I am just wondering what everyone thinks is the best way to adjust camber. Bolts? Plates? Thanks Derek
Plates are better (easier to adjust, wider range of settings, and less likely to slip) but will raise the car ~ 1/4", unless you get the ones from Racecompengineering. And it depends how much you feel like spending... http://www.racecompengineering.com/rceproducts.htm I have these. http://www.pde-usa.com/parts/frontcamber.htm
are you trying to add camber or remove it? if you wanna add camber: Get the plates. Remove it: Rear camber bolts. The front struts have camber bolts stock, and will be enough to get the front end back to within factory spec, and a set of rear camber bolts will be more than enough. just MAKE SURE YOU GET AN ALIGNMENT. it pisses me off when people think they don't need an alignment, or it isn't worth it.... is getting 10-20k more miles out of your tires worth it? is a proper driving safe car worth it?
I want camber close to stock with the prodrive springs on. I'm not going to auto-x or anything. I sure don't want uneven wear on my tires. I will get an alignment. As a matter of fact, I got a Firestone lifetime alignment for $99 yesterday. Didn't use it, but I will. Derek
If that's the case I wouldn't worry about it too much. The Prodrives don't really drop all that much anyway. A little extra camber won't kill your tires as long as the toe is adjusted correctly.
I actually bought my tires there too. I have Fuzion ZRi 205/55/16s. Someone bought them, drove them for about 500 miles. Wanted something else. Returned them. I got them for $150 mounted and balanced. I love them. Made a world of difference compared to the Eagle HP M/S tires I run in the winter. Life time alignment has nothing to do with the tire life though. It does have a lot to do with the F'ing potholes we have here in the spring. I'm just worried that the camber will wear out the inside of the tires. Derek
the problem is people still seem to think you can jack as much camber into your car and it will be fine as long as the toe is set properly... this is only half true... camber is also a tire wearing angle... My master tech used to work on Porsche, Lambos, ferrari's and others... on friday they would come in get their settings set with lots of camber... then on Monday the same guys would be back in to have that SAME camber put back to factory... WHY??? cause camber wears tires too.... add a combination of bad toe adjustment and kiss the tires goodbye...
haha you should see every set of Azenis' I've taken off of my cars. Totally destroyed from the inside out, and badly beaten sidewall edges. Lots of negative camber will rapidly add wear to your tires. It puts far more pressure on one area of the tire and makes it do more work than the rest of the tire. I have a dead stock alignment on my daily driver so I can actually keep those tires. My Azenis' are pretty low now, I''l burn them off and then take some pics to warn of the side effects of -3.2 degrees of camber in the front end and -1.8 on the back end. They need to be rotated. A lot.
We are only talking about added camber from dropping the car less than an inch. Not going from zero to -3 degrees. How much camber is that really going to add?
That max negative camber I could get with Prodrive springs and the stock front camber bolts was like -1.3 degrees.
Thanks for all the replies. I've got the springs now. I'm thinking I'll just get some camber bolts, but my question is this... how much negative camber is created after putting Prodrive springs on? The reason I ask is because I need to know what bolts to get. Some that I see are only good for +-1 degree. If that's not good enough, I'll need to order different bolts. Thanks.
you may not even need bolts.... 1 degree is more than enough adjustment unless you have majorly bent something... All the ones we have installed the prodrives into and aligned havent need any camber bolts.... and lifetime alignments... i am not so sure that includes you messing with your suspension and wnating them to fix it after... bu tif they do go for it... I am always weary of lifetime alignments as it is usually I'll get you somewhere deal....
Camber bolts work for me. I've already got enough NVH with coilovers, poly bushings and Group N tops. Plates are easier, but I like having at least a little give in the strut top mount. If you go low enough where the factory camber bolts don't have enough range, Eibach has bolts that do 1.5-2.5 degress for not much money. I got the 0-1.5's for the rear.
Running <2.5 degrees will not wear your tires abnormally.... Any amount of toe will do significantly more.... (and in a weekend, your are NOT going to see the effects of camber induced tire wear, unless you road trip it) The only real concern, assuming you can get some sort of neg camber you should have is the f/r balance...get that too far off and the car will either not turn (too much rear) or will spin (too much front)....of course those are exaggerations, but you get the point. 1-1.5 degrees less in the rear seems to be pretty good, under 1 may be required with stock components, however. As for lifetime alignments, it is exactly that...you bring your car in, they align it, regardless of the reason. Some may have an issue with aftermarket suspension, but that should be discussed up front. Zak, we had our camber discussion yesterday.
Are you guys trying to get camber back to stock? Cuase after I put my springs in I got my alignment back to stock. I dropped 2 inches int front a .8 in the rear
