Car Amplifier suggestions

Hello fellow car audio fanatics.

I am in the market for a newer car amplifier. I have two 10 " 1100 watt subwoofers (@4ohms) in a box that ive used a few different amps over the last 10 years or so, but my recent one doesnt seem to be cutting it anymore. After doing some research I found that 2 channel amps and mono amps are good to have for subwoofers. Too stay away from multi channel ones due to power is lessened when more channels are available. I currently have a multi channel 1200 watt amplifier, and I seem to be having issues where the amp shuts down after x amount of time running some music on any type of settings within the amplifier.

I've been told to look for the output of RMS, and that lower wattage amps work better so that you wont have to worry about blowing out speakers / subs . That the wattage is a major marketing gimmick.

Any members have some recommendations that they have , or have used that they like? Looking to get something that has the best bang for my buck.

 

I used to run two ported RF T1's each powered by an Alpine MRP-M1000 back in high school when I was rolling in a Suburban.

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m1000

From the website

edit: I'm now running the same two subs from a single Rockford P-1000 now, and they aren't seeing as much wattage, but my listening preferences have changed bit nowadays and I have them in a sealed box in the trunk of my WRX.

 

I have a Kenwood Excelon 1000 watt amp that I believe to be a two channel amp (98% sure but I'll have to double check) that I am willing to sell if you are interested, i had it powering two 10" rockford HX2's in my last car...It worked well. I will try to get an exact model number tonight when I get home and I will let you know.

 

2 10" sony xplod 1100 watt run on 4 ohms .. I think the peak power is 400 per woofer.

Sony Xplod XS-GTX100LW is the closest model that i can find that looks like em

 

Ok, that makes more sense. A 10" sub built for 1100W RMS would have to be built like a friggin tank.

The ones you linked to are rated for 300W RMS. You should find an amp rated for 600W @ 2 ohms (you'll wire the two 4 ohm subs in parallel). Some 2 channel amps will do 2 ohms bridged, but not many. You may have better luck with a monoblock.

Over or under powering subs can be trouble. Under power and you'll risk overheating the coils with DC if you clip the amp too hard. Over power and you can cook the coils or destroy it mechanically. Key is to pay attention, listen for ugly noises, and watch your gain control. The box matters too, they might not be able to handle 300W in a ported box.

 

The box is not ported. However, I will need to go check back at the townhome this weekend if I get a chance. I am in the process of moving out by the end of the month. The system hasn't been put into the car yet since i just got it and traded in my old chevy canobeer.

I used to have a 800 Watt Dual Amp and I cant remember what happened to it, but it worked really well. The only gripe I have about my amp thats with my subs now is that it likes to go into protected mode way to often if i was turning it up on any setting on the amplifier.

 

When it comes to amps RMS basically means sustainable power. Many 1000 watt amps only put out 200-400 watts rms and peak around 1000.
On that note you never mention what the RMS of the subs you have.

Since you have 2 subs that are 4 ohm. Is it safe to say you are wiring in parallel to put a 2 ohm load on the amp?

 

I love car audio threads, nobody ever really knows what their talking about in them.

On that note, I'd choose an amp that can put out 400-600 watts into both your subs, I like to have my amp max out first cause you can hear it and it will go into protection before it destroys itself unlike a speaker that will just release the smoke that makes it work. You can either run your subs in parallel to a mono amp at 2 ohms or one sub per channel on a 2 channel. You'll get more power out if the impedances are matched (mono amps are usually 2 ohm stable, two 4 ohm subs in parallel look like a 2 ohm load to the amp), but the amp will have less distortion if you don't load it down as far as it can go (a 4 ohm sub on a 2 ohm stable per channel amp). Some things to note, when you bridge a 2 channel amp, you double its stable impedance because of the voltage doubling (so a 2 CH that's stable at 2 ohms per ch will only be stable down to 4 ohms in bridge mode), so don't connect your 2 subs in parallel to a bridged 2 CH amp. Also, you only get 3 more db in volume increase for every doubling in power output, so the difference between 500 to 600 watts is barely anything except for the extra heat your speakers have to dissipate. And it takes about 10 db for you to perceive a doubling in volume.

I prefer 2 channel amplifiers just because they are more versatile, you could use it for your door speakers if you wanted to some day, but you have to get a bigger amp to make up for the impedance mismatch if you want all the powers.

Hope that helps and didn't just confuse you with ohms law applied.

 

All my wattage is in RMS by the way, each manufacture measures peak differently so it's never comparable.

 

This is dependent on amp. You can have a 2 channel amp that is rated at 2ohm per channel. And have it still be stable at 2 ohm bridged.

For instance I have a Boston Acoustics Gt24 amp. It is stable at 2 ohm per channel and can take a 2ohm load bridged.

2x300 at 2 ohm or 1x900 at 2ohm

 

Umm, no. Ohms law does not have exceptions. It might be able to handle a 2 ohm load bridged, but then that means it can handle a 1 ohm load per channel because that's what each channel is seeing when you bridge it put a 2 ohm load on it. Doesn't mean you have to put 1 ohm on each channel for it to work, that's just the biggest load it can handle, you could put a 2 ohm, 4 ohm, 8, 3, 12, 16, 69, 1000 ohm load on it and it will drive it, just not at its maximum power output.