Well as most of you know I just bought an 04 forester with a very nice set of coil overs. I find them to be a little bouncy but I am guessing they are not set the way I want them to be. I have no idea what I would be doing to the ride if I start tightening and loosening things. So the questions I have is who really know suspension/ coil overs? The suspension/coil over in questions is: DRM Drummond racing coil overs. Drummond alu caster/camber plates So those with knowledge please help me out. Those without knowledge please just read and learn.
I don't know that model but what's the spring rates and ride height? That may help for those that do.
the info I listed is all I know... This is what I have found camber caster plates: http://www.cp-racing.com/product_detail.cfm?CatID=234&PID=528 coil overs: http://www.cp-racing.com/product_detail.cfm?CatID=233&PID=519
Off the question but i guess its ok to ask this question, How do you convert spring rate? Say i have apring rate of 215 front and 190 rear. How do I convert that into kg?
conversion chart: http://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/spring-rate-conversion-chart-30786/ do you have the dampening set to full soft at this point?
Set them to full soft, if you don't notice any difference or if they're set to full soft and it still feels harsh then you might have some that are blown out. You might have to take them apart and compress them by hand to be sure. Then order replacement shocks - that's what I've had to do with mine. Otherwise, there is a big adjustment in going from struts to coilovers with non-progressive (linear) spring rates. They're bouncy - get used to it.
Not sure how to do that??? Part of what info I am looking for. On a smooth road and stuff they ride nice but if the road has a wave effect to it the car just seems to bounce alot. There is not bump steer or anything like when I had a bad strut on my wrx. Or would coil overs respond different with a bad one then a strut does?? thanks for the help guys, keep the info coming. Links of good reads would be great too. I would really like to understand suspension better altogether.
Bill, I've installed the DMS gravel spec twice for Amy now. You need to play with the settings. You should be able to get them squared away with no problems. Ya know how much those are brand new, right?
I don't think they are the gravel spec 50mm ones I think they are the 40mm ones. Not real sure what they are brand new. shoot me a pm with what you know please. also do you think we could maybe tinker with this? Do you feel comfortable doing that???
Check out the shock adjustment page on the DMS web site. The 40mm shocks provide only a bump adjustment as rebound is internally matched to the bump setting. http://www.dmshocks.com/default.asp?id=18 I know what you mean about highway undulations. There is a section of 94 between Rogers and Maple Grove that nearly made me sick with the rhythmic bouncing of the car on DMS 40s. I made them softer and hardly even notice that stretch of road now. I ran these on my wagons at the National RallyCross Championship sand now on the Legacy at this weekends RallyCross and they were phenominal. I recommend them for spirited driving or racing but only if you can find a deal on them used, the price for a set of new ones is crazy! I found the 40s for under $1k used. For day to day driving expect some harshness but for blasting across bumpy fields or roads you'll notice the difference. Amy
I think around $1500 or so, that's what the ones I bought originally posted for. All depends on your patience and the seller's need for cash. When all was said and done, I got mine almost a month after their first listing for $950 shippped off NASIOC but by that time the seller was asking for "Offers? Anyone?" So patience pays off. Granted I've had new bushings put in by Feal Suspension since then to help with sticking and bushing wear that developed, I should have regreased them sooner. Also remember these are not install and forget struts. They need periodic regreasing for longer bushing life depending on usage (dirt, water, temperature, etc.) Regreasing isn't hard, but properly done requires them to be removed and taken apart and cleaned. Which is something you can do yourself over a weekend or a long day depending on motivation and available help. I'm pretty sure Dan and Dave would strangle me if I asked them to take them off my car again Amy
Well thanks amy, I tried what you suggested and I have great news to report. 1. they do move both when jacking up and when I let the jack out fast. 2. all 4 of them had their bump settings set as stiff as they could go. 3. I adjusted all 4 to as soft as they could go and they are much better 4. they could use some greasing as they moan and groan a little as I compress them or jack it up. All in all I would say they are in real good shape and just need a little tlc. I know its not worth it but part of me wants to take them out and paint them so they look pertty again. lol
LOL, I know who you bought this car from. Mankato correct? That car was owned by a doctor out in Colorado. I'm surprised he sold the car already.
yep, this is that car. what do you know about it? did you ever talk to him? shoot me a pm with what you know please. also any input on the opening questions??
