My crank pulley took a crap and jumped the a/c belt and shredded the alt. Looks like a nice groove in the TC cover also. :ugh: Just picked up a new pulley from BP suabru but I need the 4 pronged kent-moore tool. Does anyone have one I could borrow for the weekend?
I have a home made version of that tool, but you can also break that pulley loose using the starter. Just get a long breaker bar and prop it on the ground (double check to make sure it's the right direction), disconnect the coil(s) and hit the starter quick. Breaks it loose every time for me.
I think I prefer the tool method. Im not quite surewhat to do...I'ts still under warranty (Subaru Classic 2 year) but the guy at BP Subaru couldnt tell me if it would be covered without seeing the car. I think its obviously shot. It looks out of alignment and its loose. Totally different than the new one. I could take the day off Monday and have it towed up there. But if its not covered then what? I have to pay to have them fix or towed home and then still have to fix it. I almost just want to fix it myself tomorrow. I really just wanted to eat, drink and watch football. .. Do you know what size socket I need? How many ft lbs does it need to be torqued?
changed all my pulleys/ crank, powersteering, alternator by googling free manuals, other subaru club sites by typing in their search and yes youtube. for my 02 WRX. pretty good for a 1st timer. i'm guessing that's your legacy, so can't say much to help. sorry.
If you're just trying to get the crank bolt loose or tight, then have a friend get in the car and put it in top gear (clutch out) while stepping hard on the brakes. That way the crank won't want to turn and you'll be able to loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. ~Dan
The crank pulley bolt requires a 22mm socket. Deep socket is your best bet, but you can use a regular with small extension. ~Dan
also be carefull to apply equal pressure to both sides so that you do not pinch the pully on the crank and meybe cause some damage to the crank
A decent 3/8" impact wrench can usually crack the crank pulley loose. The older style Snap-On or Matco versions fit in there without removing the AC condenser.
Dan is right, it is a 22mm. I have always used the starter trick and it works like a champ. I normally prop my breaker bar right on the frame rail by the battery. I have tried the top gear method and it didnt work for me ( I had a very low end clutch). I do have a tool now (my dad made one). I do think that at somepoint they switched patterns on the crank pulleys though, they went from a small holes int he pulley to large ones or something like that. let me know if you need to borrow the tool.
Put the car in 5th and yanked the parking brake. 6' of pipe took care of it. Now I can get on with my weekend..Bowling then football. NASCAR approved.
Make sure you get that bolt tqed to the right specs. In the last month I have talked to 3 or 4 people who have sheered off the woodruff key on the crank by having that pulley come loose.
that crank is all about the right torque, so make sure torque it to the right specs on your model. and boy your vbelt was all torn up! did you just patch up your timing case? looks like it had a torn next to the pulley, then the pix with the new pulley looked like you patch up the rip on your tc?
