I decided to change out the inlet pipe today, because the OE was starting to get a little extra crispy. In an attempt to avoid removing the manifold I purchased the Perrin one. Which I'll admit leaves a little to be desired on fitment, but none the less a trade off in the hopes of saving some time. Somewhere in between removing the old tube and installing the new one I disturbed something and I am almost certain it pertains to the pass. side of the motor. Just seeing if anyone else has had this issue before, and of anyone has a scan tool capable of checking this thing so I can make life a little easier in the diag dept. Thanks, Paul
There isn't too much on that side to be unplugged or broken, but I will list the things that I can think of. 1. Evap solenoid. Right behind the power steering pump. Has 2 little vacuum fittings on it, that are easily broken off. Would create a vacuum leak when the soleniod is powered up, and a CEL when the ECM realizes that the solenoid isn't operating correctly. 2. STi's have a PCV connector on them, that would sit in the back by the turbo. It's the furthest back hose on the stock inlet tube. Would have a little white plastic tube, that connects to a grey connector. In all reality, you dont need it, but without it plugged in, you will get a CEL. Wouldn't create a misfire though. 3. Make sure all the little vacuum lines are connected to their respective places. If you have a leak somewhere, you can get misfires on more than one cylinder.
After rechecking the connections I pulled out one of the pins slightly on the front injector. Reinstalled it everything works just fine. No more mods in the middle of the work week for me, haha! Now, are any of the OTC or Snap On tools capable of clearing the CEL or is the dealer only capable of doing it? Paul
If you want it easy, disconnect the battery for a minute. Start, and let it idle for about 10 minutes, until it warms up. Then you're fine. Otherwise most of the OTC ones will clear CELs.
Any basic OBDII scan tool should be able to clear the code. Checker or PepBoys or some other parts place might be able to do it as well. As far as the battery trick, some ECM's hold power for longer than others. So best bet is to disconnect both cables, and then turn your key to run so it attempts to power up the ECM. That will "sometimes" clear the memory.
While it was in getting the struts replaced under my extended warranty by a friend at Honda he cleared it out with their laptop scan tool. It is an STI so I could never get any of the handheld scanners to communicate with it. Yeah, I know a Honda dealership; but you have to take your cars to the people you trust.
Just a little FYI, with it being an STi has nothing to do with it not connecting to a generic OBDII scan tool. I'm guessing it was the tools fault, not the cars. I have 2 Mac Tools scanners that read pretty much anything (P codes) that comes into the dealer. One of them was only $75.
I'll have to check to make sure my scan tool is up to date. I have an Autoxray, and I used two different scan tools from work both being Autoxrays and none of them would link to the car. Might be a problem with the Autoxray brand.
