Ok I am still pretty new here, and to subarus, I am going to replace my cv axle (as I mentioned in a previous thread) and am just wondering what specialty tools I will need. (I have never worked on an awd car before) I know with my vws, I was able to just pound out and in the axles without needing a puller, but the more I read about subarus, it sounds like I will need a puller. If so can somebody let me know what size of one I need, or even if somebody could let me borrow it for a day that would be great. Also I decided that since I dont really see very many DIY's on here or NASIOC everything I do to the car, I will document, and write one up so that other nubes like me have an easier time in the future. thanks all, and btw its a 95 legacy 2.2 AT if that matters :biggrin:
Heres the FSM for a '99 Legacy(same body type) http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=3822 that sould help a little.
front passenger side. i have the chiltons manual, but it is junk, haynes is definently the way to go IMO. chiltons will say like use specialty tool number 4723238734324782734 but I can not find anywhere where the hell it lists what the h e double hockey sticks the specialty tools are
there might be some help for you here: http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16597&highlight=axle for tools you will need various sockets (19,17,14,12) a big hammer to get the ball joints, and a punch. you need no special tools. only thing that is kidna specail is a 32 (?) mm socket for the axle nut (1 1/4" works too)
Hey thanks, that does help. Now i know i can just do it like every other car. A little elbow grease and a big ass hammer. My other question is, the inner cv joint is ripped, and i am not sure how long it has been ripped for, but there doesnt seem to be like any grease left in there. Would you suggest just replacing the whole axle? I bought one, since it was only like 60 bucks, but if i just reboot it with some greese lightning it might still work. I havent really noticed any clicking or anything from it, but that is usually when the outer boots go bad. Just want an opinion. Now that i think about it, it would probably just be easier to replace the whole axle, especially since i have one, but just wondering what you would do.
take it from a guy who's tested subaru axles to the max. a rebooted, regreased OEM axle will last about 20x longer than a $60 (reman...I assume). not to mention save you ~$54. I've had NAPA ones, I've had autozone ones (which...if you're gonna do reman'd....these are the ones to get), checker, advanced, etc. etc. etc. all failed long before their time. I'd go to the junkyard, pick up an OEM one with a torn boot and joint packed with sand, buy it for $12. go home, clean it, re-boot it (I buy universal CV boots in bulk from JCWhitney, they're awesome!), run it for 6-8 months before I catch a stick or something and tear the boot, run it for another couple months until the grease has been replaced with sand and mud. finally....with an OEM axle, the outer joint will break. I've had 3 reman'd axles cause extremely scary vibrations throughout the entire car, because the inner DOJ (double offset Joint.....the telescoping one is not Constant Velocity....btw), was made from donors from a few different axles, and doesn't fit as snug as it should, and has worn out. granted, these are in extreme conditions (lift...sand...mud....yea), but shows you what quality products are. my dad swears by Napa parts, and he replaced the front axles in my mom's FWD '92 legacy because things started clicking/vibrating 3 times in it's 235k mile life. the first time (the end of the OEM parts) was at 150k. as for tools....32mm socket for the axle nut (take the center cap off your wheel, but the wheel back on, set the car on the ground....then take that nut off....much easier than trying to do with things torn apart). 3/16" punch for the pin that holds the DOJ cup to the trans. you'll have to seperate the steering knuckle from the control arm, many people like to pop the ball joint out of the control arm, but I've found it's much easier to pop the joint out of the knuckle. the EJ-series axles are not pressed very tightly into the hub....a small Maul (3lb works well) will get it out pretty easily. replacing the boot(s). only the DOJ comes apart. so if your outer boot needs replacing, you'll need to remove/disassemble the inner joint, then slide the outer boot off the inner end of the shaft. remove the larger clamp on the inner boot, pull the boot back from the axle cup, use some paper towel to clean out some of the old grease. you'll notice in the cup, there are grooves where the balls of the joint ride, take a small screwdriver, and slide it in that groove. about 1/4" in from the edge, you'll find a clip. pop that out. then you can slide the cup off the joint. then clean it all up, take note of how it's assembled, and you'll see a circlip that holds the inner race onto the end of the shaft. remove this clip, and you'll have it disassembled enough to get the outer boot off. I think I have some crappy pictures of this process from when I did it on my '85....I'll see if I can find them short version: if your axle isn't showing MAJOR signs of failure (lots of noise, vibration, resistance to turn, etc.), save yourself the money AND the need to change the axle again in a year or 2, and just replace the boot/grease on your stock one.
So what you are saying is... Return the $60 axle, and go to fleet farm and buy a boot kit for $5? Sounds good to me. Also i am in luck cuz it is just inner boot so it should be easy. Should i just regrease the outer one for the hell of it, and any recomendations for what greese to buy? Certain brands or what not. i figure even if i do replace the boot, and the joint ends up going bad, oh well 5 bucks down the drain
be careful when you are using your hammer on this. the wheel speed sensor is located near by and a miss placed hit and it could be $150 out of your pocket. :hsugh: +1 on the grease type? I am going to try and reboot mine. unles we get alot of salt on the roads real soon.
what sucks is driving home from work, i did feel quite a bit of vibration, and I am not even sure if it has the stock axles in it now that I think of it. so i am probably just better off with the new axle oh well, I will see how bad it is when I pull it apart. yay
fleet farm boot kit? get it an an auto parts store at least.... a new boot will come with clamps and a pack of grease. if you need more, just a tub of your generic "chassis" grease will work fine. should have CV and U-joints listed on the container. also, the clamps they come with never work very well.....but hose clamps work wonderfully! just make sure they won't hit anything while rotating. and no, they don't weigh enough to cause vibration or premature failure..... EDIT: I guess you posted that last post while I was typing this one.... a vibration is very rarely caused by a DOJ failure. I'd inspect the condition of your tires, something stuck in your wheels (is it snowing down there? could be ice packed in the wheel...). how many miles are on your car? OEM axles will easily last 150k miles or more without maintenence. and even then, they only wear out because the boot has failed. and even then, most of the time, when they're replaced, they wouldn't have to be. also, I just found this write-up on the process on the USMB: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75785
thanks a lot for all the advice. I am going to be checking out my axle today hopefully, and will just go to napa and pick up a boot kit. I will let you know what I break haha and how it goes
if you end up getting a napa reman axle its not the end of the world. They seem to hold up alright for normal driving (street/gravel). its when you start really pushing them, like chux does, that you find the weak points. most people dont go and flex out their cars at offroad parks
haha yeah this is just a daily driver, stock 2.2 at legacy, I went and looked at my axle today, didnt actually take it out (was trying to find where my oil leak is coming from) but I did wiggle it and stuff, and the joint is GONE. I am replacing it with a (I think NEW) A1 Cardone axle from checker, I have used a few of these on other cars, and only had 1 problem with one is that it didn't fit right in. so hopefully I have better luck with this one.
