Exhaust Heat sheilds>>>

Discussion in 'Modifications And Maintenance' started by WillC, May 4, 2009.

  1. WillC
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    WillC Well-Known Member

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    I recently had my head gaskets replaced and a valve job done. Well when the exhaust heads (the 90 degree) went back on, they now make a tin can raddle. My question is do I need both 90 degree heat sheilds on. I have a 2000 2.5rs. The only thing that I say that might pose a issue is the front axle rubber boots, in that would they melt under the heat. I am thinking yes. Thanks

    Will
     
  2. AWDimprezaL
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    AWDimprezaL has more posts than you

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    No, not really, take them off.
     
  3. WillC
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    WillC Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^^Werent you at Firestone last Friday night??^^^^^
     
  4. WillC
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    WillC Well-Known Member

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    Was also wondering if I should wrap them in the heat sheild tape???
     
  5. AWDimprezaL
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    AWDimprezaL has more posts than you

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    Yes I was. Heat wrap can help, but its your call.
     
  6. piddster
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    piddster Lone Wolf

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    I like to zap them with the welder. If they rattle again, I cut them off.

    I do, however, like to keep the heat sheilds that run next to the CV boots. I've seen the CV boots crack up faster than normal from a lack of heat sheilds right there.
     
  7. driftin240
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    driftin240 Well-Known Member

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    This is the greatest solution, unless they are too rusted to weld up.
     
  8. WillC
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    WillC Well-Known Member

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    The car does have 170,000 miles+ MN Winters= a lil russssssssssssty..........Thinking of just cuting and then thinking of useing some of that heat tape/cloth used on turbos and what not????
     
  9. driftin240
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    driftin240 Well-Known Member

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    Header wrap would hold up the best. Some of the cheap exhaust tape might work as well.
     
  10. WillC
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    WillC Well-Known Member

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    then its header wrap...time for some distruction :biggrin: