Have you ever heard of piston slap? There are reasons for letting your engine warm up, but do what you please. It's only a motor...:eek3:
If it takes your car 60 seconds to build oil pressure...you need to do more than let your car warm up. Please don't post false info like that. You do what you want to your car, and others will do what they want.
Ask them why the hell they aren't f-ing deaf yet and when they complain take it off and beat them with it.
60? No. It was a safe number to use. You do NOT need to let your car sit there and idle until the car has warmed up. Urban myth. http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html http://searchwarp.com/swa40105.htm http://ask.cars.com/2007/04/do_newer_cars_n.html Google for more answers of the same. Nice try with the piston slap though.
I belive there was also a survey on either clubwrx or nasioc, and the consensus was that warming up is not necessary. Whatever floats you're boat I guess...My dad doesn't belive in warming up a car whatsoever, and they regularly get 180K before trading their cars in (40mile, one way commute really puts on some miles). Pardon my newbiness...but I have heard of piston slap, thought I'm not sure what it is... I'm obviously no mechanic, but the way I look at it, if the engine is running, it might has well be pushing the car.
I dunno about that and our minnesota winters. (spring exposed to the elements) what size is you muffler tip? maybe try the Apexi ATS....the one I wanted for my exhaust when I had the apexi....remember talking about it? http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_exhaust_detail.asp?id=217&pageNum=1
3 1/2" at the tip. And yes I guess I thought you wanted the butterfly valve but now I remember that it was the active tip.
in a harsh minnesota winter when its like -10 degrees or so your car probably never even reaches normal operating temps. So do what you want and don't warm it up but its pretty much like driving around with a chunk of fudge in your oil pan to lube your motor.
generally I dont htink you need to excessively warm up your car... I never have... (well once or twice) but seeing as Drfitin240 is actually paid by Subaru to work on Subaru's and has built many engines for club members I think I would take his suggestions before about oooooh I'd say 99% of the E-pinions on this site...
Odd that it isn't in the entire section devoted to winter driving in the owners manual then. You'd think if it was that important they'd include it. Alas, they do not. They do remind you to remove snow and ice from the bottom of your shoes though.
Like I said, do what you want. It's up to everyone to decide their own opinion on what to do with a cold engine. Lets just remind everyone that trying to cram thick oil through tiny oil passages in camshafts and crankshafts doesn't work well with cold oil. It's thicker and just doesn't flow as fast. I have an oil temp gauge, so I know how long it takes to warm up. It takes quite a bit longer than just warming up some coolant, so when you think your car is warm, and your out beating the pants off it...just think of this. The coolant warms up over 3x as fast as your oil....
The cold pour point of most 5W oils are more then sufficient to do the job after oil pressure has been established. I have UOAs from Jan., May and Aug. of this year that show no high amounts of any metals. If there were lubrication issues it would have shown up in any one of those. You'd also think that if not fully warming up you car was causing any issues you'd hear about it somewhere.... I can't seem to find it though. Here's another thread on it with more then one opinion on BITOG. http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1016396&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
But you had the car sitting out in the driveway idleing for about 1 hour or more. But we did have to listen to her motorcycle idle at 3000rpms in the spring.
i always warm my everything up, ive seen how long it takes for oil to get moving when cold, not only that, i dont want to get into a cold car and not be able to see out my windows!
Back on topic... I think if you want to be able to warm the car up "neighbor freindly" the gadget previously linked to http://www.racinglab.com/apexi-ecv-155-a014.html would be worth looking into, as might an electric "cut out" pipe placed in line with an OEM muffler...I would imagine being that it is an electric operated cutout, you could somehow set it up to trigger when the throttle is at or over a certain degree, so you could have totally unrestricted output, yet stock sound levels at idle or part throttle. What I wonder, is where you would dump the exhaust going out the cutout...I would imagine you could rust the body out or something like that if you just had the end dumping out directly under the body...
^ The way I understand it works is you just put it inline with your existing exhaust, maybe in between the mid pipe and axle back. I have thought about it but was told to stay away because of Minnesota's harsh winters would abuse it.
OCB-sorry bro, maybe Nuke forgot to post up the pictures I sent him. PM me your email and I'll forward them your way. I am finding that the dynomat is getting worn from the heat from the exhaust so in the spring I'm going to redo mine w/o this matterial and perhaps go with thicker aluminum flashing and see how that sounds.
New idea ... I'll take a rolled piece of metal (maybe roof flashing) a little smaller in diameter than the exhaust tip. Then install a mesh screen on each side (something like a screen door so it passes a sufficient amount of air), stuff exhaust packing inside, and use two other pieces of metal as sleeves (press fit) to hold the mesh in place (one longer than the other so that I can drill 3 holes to put the allen bolts in put hold it in place at the tip of the muffler).
