Flashing Cruise Control button

Hello Ladies and Gents,

I haven't had time to take it to a shop yet as it has just started showing up, but upon returning from a road trip up north I noticed that my Cruise Control light indicator on my 2008 wrx sedan. When I was sitting in line at the car wash I noticed that my car threw up the check engine light. My TCS light is displaying now too. The car still runs pretty sound still and haven't noticed any hiccups so far.

Will bring to O'reillys tomorrow to see what code it shows.....
Has anyone else ran into this issue?

 

You should get a vag com cable, download freessm or something like that and you can read and clear your own codes.

 

Disconnect the negative cable and if it comes back, then you got an issue

 

same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. ended up being a p0141 code. the rear o2 sensor wires had torn. perhaps they were pushed into the drivetrain when I drove over some ice/snow.

hope this helps.

 

I thought a flashing cruise control light was a misfire?

 

Took it too oriellys and the I got the p0301 code...

edit :

basically from what i have gathered on the internets... many people either are saying its an o2 sensor, something to do with the MAF, or a spark plug issue.

Will be getting a socket wrench soon and trying to see if it goes away.

 

Update : Went to the auto parts store and picked up some seafoam, MAF cleaner, new air filter (because of how filthy mine was)

I disconnected the negative battery cable, took apart the air filter and the maf housing (correct terminology?) hosed that all out.
Also, ran the can of seafoam.

The lights both are off. Will update this thread if anything changes but it seems to be fixed for now after taking it out for a spin around the block.

 

It will probably pop back up again. Nuke deleted out two codes for me and I think that was one of them..

 

did that solve your problem?

 

Just looked up what the code was and it was the misfire one. For me I had bad valves and had them re done. Hopefully that's not what yours is doing.. I had an air system code removed and another one that was like an 02 sensor code.. Those two Nuke fixed for me and the light has been off since. So maybe you fixed it then with cleaning everything.

 

we came to a conclusion that it was a mixture of the weather and all the build up of dust and what not that was setting it off. crossing my fingers i dont have to have my valves redone. Will update tho later

 

Flashing CEL is misfire. Cruise control light flashes when it is disabled and CC is disabled when CEL is triggered.
Although it does seem that he had a misfire code.

 

Yea that's right.. My cel was flashing when that happened when I had to redo my valves

 

What exactly happened to your valves? Did you lose timing? Seems odd that just your valves would be damaged.

 

Valve lash I think.. The exhaust valves were shot.

 

Last night when I was going to get sushi I noticed the check engine light came back on. pretty sure it is the same code. From what I found on NASIOC looks like I will be going down the list checking all these things.


MISFIRES


1. Wrong, worn or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Generally NGK work best gapped between .028"-.030".

2. Clogged/dirty/bad injectors or fuel filter. Try changing the fuel filter. The maintenance schedule for the filter is every 30K miles. Have the injectors professional cleaned or at least run several bottles of a good injector cleaner through the gas tank. Also make sure you are using the correct octane gas! Either 91 or 93 unless you are specifically tuned for another octane!! (IE: race gas or E85) You can swap injectors from another cylinder and see if the misfire follows. If so this would indicate an injector issue if it does move..

3. Check valve clearances & compression. Leak down/compression test.

4. Dirty MAF sensor. This causes an incorrect airflow readings. Misfires can result. Clean with CRC MAF cleaner or NON chlorinated brake cleaner. Make sure you are actually cleaning the MAF sensor and not just the IAT sensor. Common mistake.

5. Vacuum leaks or preturbo leak. Check where the FPR hose connects (generally you could get a P0457 or P0171 with this as well). Check the turbo inlet pipe where it connects to the turbo. This pipe is famous for ripping and causing a huge preturbo leak (P0171 as well).

6.Poor grounds/grounding. Clean the battery ground cable and ones that run to the intake manifold. Make sure all are connected. These are sensor grounds and must be kept clean.

7. Cam timing. Check cam timing per the service manual. Clean cam and crank sensor face.

8. Excessive PCV blow by. PVC gases will effectively lower the octane content of gasoline/petrol and can cause misfires along with knock. Get a catch can or air/oil seperater.

9. Carbon build up in heads/cylinders. You can use Seafoam or top end cleaner as well as other type of carbon remover.

10. Lightweight flywheels or crank pulleys. (phantom misfires) Can cause false misfires. Opensource tuning can disable.

11. Bad/loose coil pack or coil pack connector. Test coil pack and move to other cylinder to see if DTC changes. If so this would indicate a coil pack issue. Also check the tower boot for corrosion.

12. Faulty fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. Check fuel pressure. It should be bewteen 35-38psi idle @ sealevel. Removing the vac line at idle should give you 43 psi. The FPR is a 1:1 rising rate. For every 1 psi manifold positive pressure the fuel pressure should rise 1 psi.

13. Faulty front O2 sensor Replace with new

14. Misfires all cyclinders: Coil pack connectors mixed up (correct way:black to back,white to front),light weight flywheel,bad/unplugged crank or cam sensor,incorrect gapped plugs,cam timing off.

 

update in case anyone still wants to follow and eventually hear resolution:
I brought it into the stealership as some might call it. Will get looked at tomorrow morning. I do have an extended powertrain warranty so if anything major needs to happen I hope I am covered.

they said they would call me tomorrow with an update and see if i can get a rental car for the time being

 

I'd check your spark plugs...they can be notorious for misfires. It is also wise to always double check spark plug gaps (even when they are pre-gapped) prior to installing.

Best of luck and keep us updated!

 

I guess it was the gaskets on my intake manifold. The tech said it would be about 1200 estimate. He is waiting to hear back from finance to see if it is covered on the power train warranty....

any one else have experienced this?

 

If it is just intake manifold gaskets and it isn't covered either do it yourself or get that **** over to NF. $1200 is a lot.

 

Not sure if karma or just really lucky....

Dealership called yesterday and said my intake gaskets were cracked and needed to be replaced. They estimated a 1200 repair, plus the diagnostic fee which was another 140. They were waiting to see if the power train warranty I had bought would cover said item, and that they would call me back when they knew more.

Couple hours rolled by and I received a call from them. They said when they pulled up the purchase of the car they had discarded my warranty due to seeing a previous warranty that had been purchased by the first owner that was a bumper to bumper coverage with a zero dollar deductible until the year 2015 or 100k miles.

 

Nice

 

Winning

 

You're pretty lucky that they transferred over that previous warranty to you...iirc, Subaru doesn't normally transfer the gold or extended warranties.

And I'm glad to hear that it was just the intake mani gasket. I think that is a relatively common issue as well.

 

Extremely lucky with the warranty.

They mentioned that they weren't able to find any leaks at the time of inspection. Just mentioned that they were cracked. They did read all four cylinder codes were showing but he said if you hadn't noticed any changes in the cars performance that its just probably a glitch that happens when its really cold out when the key is being turned over.

 

You are one lucky bastard with the warranty deal as it turned out. Buy a lottery ticket too.

 

I should do that hopefully when i get my car back on friday afternoon

 

....and its back.

Recently filled up an went about my business and noticed a little abnormal shakes that happened suddenly off and on.

my in dash digital mpg reader is back to giving me 15.6 to 15.9 for mileage. I think its time to schedule another appointment with nf to flash back to stock and take it back to the stealership for hopefully some more warranty work that will be3 covered.

I need a drink.

 

Bummer man

 

i still have the invoice in my email box and the last job they did had a 12,000 mile / 12 month warranty on that too so im going to take it back to them and tell em to fix it if thats what it is. which is what i am hoping for in the first place.

 

Did you ever take it back to NF?

 

its still under the warranty at the stealership. i am going to get the code read after work.

the ironic thing about it is i wanted to take it to nf again to get it reflashed with the aem but i havent had time to get around to it

 

Yeahhh. Do that.

 

You need help

 

Cloning myself might be a good start for some help.

Not sure if i should bring it by to flash back to stock before i bring it in just incase they try to rip the warranty carpet from underneath my feet or just bring it in

 

He needs to be "Nuked"

 

How can I be 'nuked' again when ive already been 'nuked'?

+1 if you know this classic

 

Super Troopers

And he needs to adjust the tune for your CAI, it changes the AFR. No bueno for our cars to add one w/ out a tune.

 

it hasnt been installed yet sci.

 

Oh ****, sorry dude. Back to my hole. It sounds like they might be able to help anyways.

 

Take it in right MEOW!
Now, who wants a mustache ride?!

 

welp, kiwi finally delivered a new lead rather than a misfire. it had sat in the rain this afternoon so i got cylinder #1 too with it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qlewy034y5bckyo/Screenshot_2014-07-07-19-25-54.png

 

More of an update. Engine was pulled and heads are off now. they found a burnt exhaust valve, and still have yet to check the other cylinders. A subaru representative inspector will be there to assess the situation in 12-24 hrs.

Burning a valve can be caused by normal engine wear. Worn camshaft, bucketsor springs can just put enormous stress on the heads and the valvetrain. The killer is heat, valves get hot as you can imagine and metal expands and then shrinks when getting cold. Running a lean motor accelerates the process.

What causes burnt valves ? Are they common in just about any year?

 

found this on nasioc :

Burned valves are usually the result of not sealing properly and this could be caused by being too tight on the valve lash. Subaru has changed the valve lash specs somwhere around 2004 I think from 0.25mm to 0.35mm for the Exhaust valvelash. Earlier cars had problems with burned valves at times.