Wondering, does anyone have thoughts on a good way to increase the downforce of the front end at higher speeds? Will the typical front lip do the trick? I would like to find something that doesn't stick out like a sore thumb and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. it seems like my front end wants to float around a bit, just looking to increase the 'glued to the road feel'. ideas? suggestions? thanks
Yeah my only thing is do they actually work? I have the same question but i'm not always sure they're functional some times i think they just look cool ya know?
whiteline steering bushings & eibach prokit. i noticed the big difference in the front end floating when I put the grocery cart handle on the back (STi wing~but is was free trunk swap):biggrin: meaning the front is doesn't have the same downforce as the back.
What's higher speeds? do you still have your under-tray on? odds are it's less of an aerodynamics problem as much as it is a suspension problem. The eibach pro-kit is a pretty soft spring setup, and if it's on stock dampeners, then i can understand why it feels "floaty" Honestly, the most effective downforce adder can be purchased at home depot. a large flat peice of plywood, trimmed to seal the underbody of the car past the transmission. if you can INCREASE the speed of air moving under the body of the car by DECREASING resistance, it increases the downforce provided by other aspects of the car like the hood, windshield, roof, etc.
^^speeds 70-90. The rear feels glued, but not the front. It's seems unbalanced. I didn't have the front end float feel as bad before I got the grocery cart wing. Yeah, I know the stock suspension set-up with the prokit isn't the greatest help, but my next step would be the tanabe proseven with teas or tein with efdc. Neither are in the budget right now and I don't know how long I'll have this car..meaning it might go buh bye next spring. maybe with the next project...STI :yumyum: I think I'll skip the plywood for now:biggrin: I know what you mean though. splitter, canards, rear diffuser, and under body panels would be great and would help the most. I've seen those APR splitters before..anyone have them on their car?
yeah plyWOOD and hot exhaust to me isnt a great combo inmy mind especially if you are getting on it enough to get the turbo and dp cherry... thats my 0.02
a basic decent;y designed fromt lip does quite a bit. It will deflect more air that would have normally been under the car, and strakes on the front can help deflect air around the dead zones around the wheels. There aren't that many body kits actually designed to do this though., most are designed to look a certain way. The EGR OEM kit actually works well for aerodynamics as it has strakes for all wheels and the front lip is made to fit a splitter in under the engine. most body kits have zero wind tunnel development however, so your guess is as good as anyone's as to whether or not its helping or hurting. Canards really dont do anything. They're not attatched by anything stiff enough to provide a lot of downforce, their primary purpose is deflection of air over the wheels area for cars that have retardedly wide widebody kits like touring cars. If you want your front end to go down and you want to do it with aero parts the STi oem stuff (EGR front lip, various other STi lips) are the only ones that have certifiably gone thtough any kind of aero testing. Also, chances are if you see any kind of front lip on a touring car, it helps.
Lots of great info, just what the Cheech doctor ordered! Keep it coming, I had simular questions. esperunit-could you give us an example of a Y designed front lip, plz?
lol, that was a typo. I meant to say "decently designed," as to mean "from a large reputable company that fits them on high speed track cars" Mainly front bumper covers designed for racing use or by larger companies are wind tunnel tested like the ones seen on touring cars etc. The ones designed to look like darth vader's mask and are sold by companies as dress up are questionable as to what they'll do to front end aerodynamics.
What you need is a flat-black cast-iron hood, and a 5-foot piece of railroad track for your internal front bumper.
