So, if I just turn my car to the "on" position (without turning it over), I hear the fuel pump prime. But if i just sit there with it in the on position, it clicks like every 5 seconds. Is this normal? or could it be the relay being goofy or something else? Thanks, -jfk
yeah, it just sits there and clicks, over and over with the car in the on position. Every couple of seconds it clicks again. I don't hear it when the car is running obviously.
I was also messin' around while idiling, and I took off the vacuum hose for the FPR, and nothing happened. Shouldn't it bog down and idle really crappy? It just kept running like nothing happened. :-/
well, I'm back to my usual 420 and 447, but my logs are still all over the place. The car smells rich as hell and I'm dumping a bunch of fuel. I've just about had it with this friggin thing.
no one has any information regarding the FPR? Whether or not taking the vacuum line off will effect idle?
dude, i know how this feels i was about to sell the damn thing a few month ago with all the cels i had. If you need some help with figuring it out i would! btw, do you still need that o2 sensor?
the vacuum line on the fpr is for when you are in boost. it adds fuel pressure when you make boost. if the vacuum line is unplugged its going to be a boost leak more then a fuel problem when you are not driving the car. the fpr is the last thing in your fuel system. if your car is running rich its not because of a fpr unless it is stuck shut some how and you have crazy high fuel pressure. if your car is rich it would more or less be a injector problem or the ecu is putting in too much fuel.
Thanks for the info I don't really need the o2. Since that doesn't figure to be the issue, unless both o2s are beat. I would really like to have someone go over the car with me since it is nice to have extra eyes and ears when troubleshooting. And idea why my fuel pump just sits there and clicks?
Yesterday I logged AF learning, and I had +15 at idle. While i was cruising on the highway, #C was really varying from -11 to around +5. #D was around -2 and #B was around +12. Now, if those numbers aren't way screwed I don't know what is. I'm gonna' do some logs to check some voltages and other crap later while I'm working.
These are the values I got a few minutes ago. The Idle seems to be good now....But now B and C are jacked :-/ WTF?!?! IAM 16 A/F Learning #1: 0 - <5.60 5.60 - <10.00 10.00 - <50.00 50.00+ -0.34 7.03 -12.21 -3.32
You'll be fine running with those numbers. The large midrange numbers simply indicate that your MAF needs to be rescaled. However, the car will run OK as long as you don't reset the ECU often.
these number were taken after only about 100 miles post ecu reset. So, I have a feeling that the numbers will settle down a bit more. I also still have my girlfriends MAF sensor in the car. She probably wants it back