I got my GM Booost Control Solenoid installed. 06-07 WRX guys, there's not a whole lot of increase, but it does peak the torque a little lower. According to the logs, my peak torque went from 3100-3200 RPM down to 2800 RPM. (for refrence, I did have a stage 1 map on my car) Hearing all the clicking that little guy makes is pretty cool too. Parts needed: 1. GM BCS - GM PN: 1997152 2. GM Pigtail - GM PN: 12102747 3. 3-4 feet of silicone vaccuum tubing (good for heat, and stretches well) 4. Wire cutter and crimper 5. Knife 6. 10mm socket and wrench 7. Lighter/heat source for shrinking connectors included with #2. Oh yeah, just to make sure everyone knows: YOU WILL NEED A TUNE AFTER INSTALLING THIS. The car can be driven, just stay out of the boost!! Find the stock BCS, and cut the wires, leaving enough on the stock connector to re-wire it back in, if you ever decide to do so. This is especially true if you're planning on leaving both connectors on the harness. The wires are covered by a black sleeve, use the knife to cut this off and toss it in the garbage, as it isn't recyclable. FYI: There is a little positive sign on the GM BCS, and it is important which wire goes where. Yellow wire goes to the little '+' sign on the BCS (#1) plug. Obviously, the black goes to the negative. THE CONNECTOR (#2) IS NOT LABELED POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE. If you're using the GM harness kit, it comes with heat-shrinkable connectors with hot glue inside them. They work amazingly, I've never had a problem with them, and I've probably used thousands. Just get a good crimper. The only problem is, these are designed for the size wire that GM uses. Fine and dandy for the Subaru positive (yellow) wire, but the negative (black) is EXTREMELY TINY. I got around this by stripping a good amount of wire off the negative and wrapping it back down on top of the insulated part of the wire: Then insert that in the connector and crimp away. Then shrink/glue with a lighter or small torch. To use both wiring connectors, you may need bigger shrink connectors. Try this at your own risk. After that, connect your vaccuum hoses the way they are illustrated in the diagram, and it should be ready to get tuned! 1. Shiny nipple all by itself on the GM BCS goes to the TURBO OUTLET 2. Nipple that comes with the little foam "filter" on it goes to the intake post MAF, or vents to atmosphere. (Remove filter to expose nipple, leave on if venting) 3. Last one only has one other place to go. Wastegate. This clip is a bit of a pain to get to, both on and off. (Outlet of turbo) Finished setup. FYI, you can splice in the GM BCS Connector to leave both sensor ends, but then you'd have to worry about keeping the unused connector clip covered/taped up. I chose to not do this, obviously.
awesome, cant wait to read this since I am going to put one in soon. if the tune was a few days away couldnt you also pull that one turbo hose off and run off of the wastegate spring?
Yeah I tired that I even loosened the waste gate spring, umm still not recommended without a tune. It was boosting whatever it wanted, I would install it right before you do the tune. It doesn't take more than 20-30 minutes anyway. To speed things up I would cut all the new hose and have that ready to go that would save some time.
Actually, to speed things up the most, just splice into the wiring, and wire in both connectors. I didn't do this, but its very easy to just Y the connectors, just use one at a time, of course. The wiring was the part that took the longest. Its literally a 10 minute install.
You don't need to cut into any of the stock wires for this. Just find a set of spades that will directly plug into the BCS electrical harness.
Connect the wastegate actuator directly to the air line that comes off the turbo with a piece of plain hose with no pill in it if you want to get rid of all your boost. If you just pull the hose off the wastegate actuator, the wastegate won't open at all. Boom.
My setup is in the grade A drawing that I did for my turbo inlet. Anybody else doing theres different? http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18975&highlight=perrin+turbo+inlet
Shibbs, I don't hear any clicking with mine. If it starts to bug you just place your OEM rubber grommet(?) between the BCS and the mounting plate.
Do you happen to know the ordering part number? I wasn't sure which one it was that you guys are using.
Keep in mind you won't be able to warrany a THING after you do this. Seriously. And learn to clutch too, as this will make torque sooner than you are used to. And a tune - you WILL NEED ONE, tux. Better be on the safe side - if you can't stand reading the whole thing to get the part numbers, what makes you so sure you'll be able to follow all the directions to install is correctly, anyway? I seriously think you should reconsider your thought processes.
I'm just going to assume its a combination of the AC Delco valve + the mounting location. Possibly even the orientation? I don't know, or really care. It works great. After having the ecu learning more and more it just seems to be getting better. I'm used to my car's power, and it really seems to be better than it was before. This was definitely a good couple of dollars to spend.
It definitely can't be denied that the boost comes on earlier tho. This was a great 40 dollars to spend. Plus the tune. Definitely good investment.
Funny. I don't need warrenty anymore because I'm tired of the lousy subaru service I get. At morries whoever did my rear struts never put my seats back on correctly which by the way are still partially unattatched along with a huge black smudge on the uphostry. And then I had my motor mounts updated from plastic to metal at white bear but they never replaced the top pitch mount which was one of the two mounts that I had told them that broke.
they probably read all your stupid ramblings online and stuck it to you.... I say ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha seeing as you dont need your warranty, go dump the clutch at 7000 rpm, add a 100 shot of nitrous and do donuts on 169... have fun and how the hell you break pitch mounts... I have put 60K on my WRX with many beatings and a few semi clutch drops and still suspension, transmission etc is all stock and original... wow just wow....
^^^ his car came with those 'plastic' motor mounts that subaru thought were strong enough to hold it then one broke, which the engine was moving around and broke that pitch mount then the car was being held with one mount, lol
honest to god, can we just ban that retard, i dont think it qualifies as a hate crime to ban a retard really. pweeese?
I'd rather not say. I have good friends, and the help definitely reciprocates. It is a complete retune, it can't be done by just re-scaling the boost maps, you have to adjust everything. So, this is a good thing to add along with other mods - ie, a downpipe, turbo-back, up-pipe, intake... etc etc.
