I just got home from the cities around 1pm today and it turned into one of the longest days I have had in awhile. The story is, I got my up/pipe and down/pipe installed Monday in the cities and everything went fine. Then I took it to Bullwinkle and had him reflash me with stage2. When we were doing the runs he noticed that my intake temps were like 140 and he said it was deffently from my spt intake which I knew ran hot but not that bad. He also noticed that I was only hitting 15.5 and he said with that map that I should be around 16.5 or so. So when I got home I changed the intake back to stock and went over to my buddy's to cut my heat shield for my turbo. We were taking the two bolts of the top of the turbo to put the shield back on and of course one of them is striped and we can't get it of!!!!! We finally end up pulling on it so hard that it breaks and falls out. We replace the bolt and everything is ok! Next was figuring out what was the boost problem. Bullwinkle said that it might be the waste gate being a litttle lose and told me to look into tighten it so I could hit full boost. So we take of that little clip on top of the waste gate arm which for any of you that have did this, It flys all when you pop it off!!! So of course we can't find it right!!! So we run to the store and pick up a new one and of course they don't have the size that we thought it was so I got the size above and below it and it ended up being the size above 1/4 and it fit fine! THANK GOD! HAHA So we take it out for a run to see if it help with the boost and we hear a exhaust leak. We take it back and look around everything seems to be in order. The leak sounds like it was coming from the up/pipe so I was not really to happy considering I had the work done in the cities and I live in LaCrosse so I couldn't really have them work on it. Then we look and the sensor in the up/pipe had fallen out or something. SO we tightened it down and everything is fine again. Except the boost is still the same I think it just needs a half or a full more turn and it should be ok, but after spending 4 hours messing around with something that should have took 15 minutes we are going to wait till another day.... Anyone know what else it could be if we spin it and it doesn't get up to full boost?
when Tom tuned mine I had already tweaked the wastegate and we were spiking badly.. I had to undo it a bit.... not sure why it wont hit full boost... the sensor thing wouldnt have helped... (sorry about that one)...
15.5 compared to 16.5 is not much of a difference...every car is different...I think your fine...check your vac lines...make sure nothing is punctured or kinked
you know... I was amazed that it came out int he first place, then I did hand tighten it and made a note to myself in my brain (first problem) to tighten it once installed.. yep forgot ... I was also pushing to get it done seeing as I started it 3 hrs later then I wanted too...
Yikes, that sucks about the actuator "clip," I hear that thing is a PITA to keep track of. Glad you guys got everything put back together OK. Well, ambient temps where around 85 on Monday when we where tuning, and your IAT's never dropped below 120 (and got as high as 140 at one point, yowza!). How much did you tighten the actuator arm? I would be willing to bet that you could make that 16.5 target with your exhaust, although I wouldn't tighten the actuator arm more then three full turns. The car was just barely getting to 15 PSI in 3rd gear in our runs. I'm unsure as to how accurate your boost gauge is, but 15 psi is about 1 bar. 16.5 is ~ 1.14. Also, make sure you are shortening the wastegate arm. Thats what you want to do to increase boost. If you seriously can't get anything else from doing that, your next step is buying a AEM wastegate solenoid. I think they're around $75-100.
RIght now we have turned it one full turn in a half. We are going to try to do another half turn when we get a chance. update: The sensor came off again! Anything special I need to do or did I just not tighten it enough?
I'd take it out, if it's not already and check your threads. If they're fine then tighten it down snug. Unplug the EGT sensor from the harness before attempting to tighten the sensor to the pipe. I don't know the torque specs, but it should never fall out or loosen up if it's in there correctly. As an option....If you continue to has issues with it you can always take it out and plug the bung with a bolt. Then you will need to do the 2.2 resistor mod unless bullwinkle can defeat that cel for you. Down the road you can tap your manifold for a EGT sensor and then run a gauge.
Take the sensor out and just screw the bolt in you are saying? Then I can just slide the sensor back in or what? Sorry for the NOOB questions I just wanna get it done and not worry about it anymore!!!!
no 1- the egt sensor, which threads into the up-pipe also has a wire that connects to a harness. Unplug the wire from the harness, tighten the egt sensor to pipe, reconnect to harness. (I stated that because you want to be able to tighten the sensor and NOT twist the wires while doing so.) 2- Only if you continue to have trouble with your EGT sensor staying in the up-pipe then take it out, plug the up-pipe with the bolt or have it welded shut and then relocate the egt sensor the manifold. research this option before having this done.
The stock EGT sensor isn't doing you any good once you're stage two anyway. The CEL codes for it are probably already disabled. Otherwise I think it should be throwing CEL's because your EGT's are above the stock limits once you start cranking the boost up like that.
Aight I understand sorry I will jack up the car and try it again tommrow it is too hard to see what you are doing from the top! Thanks again for everything guys! well if it doesn't work this time then I am going to plug it and do the resistor mod!
Yeah, good luck. FYI- you shouldn't have to jack the car in order to get to the sensor. It's tight in there, but you should be able to get a wrench in there.
Yeah I just wanna make sure that it is on all the way when I tighten it with my hand it feels like there is a gap and I don't wanna crank down on it and strip it if it isn't in there straight. I took the bolt all the way out and noticed that it doesn't really go all the way down on the bung but I still wanna make sure it is tight so I don't have to F with it anymore!
Aight got it back on and cranked down on it! Cross my fingure's that it holds for more then one drive haha. Thanks for all the advice ill keep you updated on what happens!
Little bit of bad info there. First off, the stock egt will thow a code at 1800 degrees. At that point in time your motor will also be throwing molten aluminum. Second, your egts should not change much going between stages. They will not get hotter or colder by removing the cat. You egt is based on afr and timing. Once your afr's are dialed in, you can use egt to make sure your timing is in check (assuming your VE is not so high that timing doesn't matter). Russ
I wasn't aware at what temp the stock EGT gauge would shoot a CEL. Good info there, spot on with my understanding of what causes high EGT temps. Thanks Russ.
Aight it came out again so I went and got some sealer and I was going to try that but after I took the bolt out I noticed that the bolt is now striped from my trying to tighten it over and over. I didn't know I was doing that since I can't even see the bolt I just had to feel for it. Now my question is? Do I get a new sensor or can I just replace the bolt? OR do I just plug it and get the resistor?
The head of the bolt is stipped. I think it was from me when I was trying to tighten it soo much..... Grrr I had when I can't drive my car!
that sucks... thats why you gotta go get a set of line wrenches... they help to prvent rounding... I used them to take that sensor out cause in the past most dont come out.. they are like norma; wrenches only they go a little further round the nut to grip it not just on 2 edges... Id get a bolt for now... or find another sensor.. I will check upstairs I may have one... will let ya know later... if I do I can just mail it out to you...
If you have one you will part with let me know other wise. I just pluged it with a bolt and this time I used some thread lock so I hope it will hold. I also did the resistor fix. I will keep you guys up dated.
I am doing a turbo. ecu. uppipe etc install on a forester right now and the STi up doesnt take the resistor so maybe I can get it off the guy if I dont have another one... will let ya know...
looks like I will be using the one of the car I am working on... sorry.. I looked through my collection upstairs and nada... anyone on the board got one they arent using or dont want.. get it to me and I will mail it out to him.... meantime... find a nice little bolt to plug into it...
Aight I have a new one.... When I go over bumps there is a wierd noise that comes from what sounds like the front left wheel well. I is pretty loud and is really starting to annoy me. Any Idea where it could be coming from or from what>? Bad bushing or somthing? I really don't know it just started happening
Ok so I really got tired of the noise so I took it into a shop to see what they said about it. They said they think it is coming from the front springs. He asked me if they were after market and if I forgot to put in a pad or something on the bottom of the spring? I don't remember if there was one but he said mine wasn't on there. And the noise I was hearing was the springs on metal. is there one on our cars and it just fell off or something when I had my strut out? If so can I just order some new OEM ones? I am just glad it is the front spings and not the back.
I thought the pad was on the top of the spring, not the bottom. Or is that the rear..? Regardless, there is a pad that goes between the spring and either the perch or the tophat. I can't remember which. It's a little conforming black rubber piece.
yeah there is a little black rubber circle that goes on the bottom under the spring.. kinda clips into soem holes in the strut body
Thats weird that all of a sudden your hearing it cause you have had those springs on for a couple of months.
Yeah that is what I was thinking...... I was kind of thinking it was my exhaust hangers. I know briggs had to get the kartboy after he got this dp
well if it was your exhaust hangers it would be clanging in the rear not the front end... shake your exhaust and see.... maybe after the install everything has settled and is sitting different on the exhaust and maybe it is that... it would be near impossible for the rubber to fall out of your strut....
