I plan on pulling the motor in my 97 outback auto (swaped 2.2) next weekend to replace the oil separator plate. Besides that what other o-rings,seals,gaskets should I pick up to replace sence I'll have it out. Thanks P.s if anyone is willing to give me a hand that would be great too. (Farmington heated garage)
Was gonna say clutch, but then noticed it's an auto. Whel I pulled my 2.2 out to do my clutch (95 Legacy) I did the oil separator plate, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gaskets. Also degreased and pressure washed 20 years worth of s**t off, as much as I could at least. Also, when I researched mine a bunch of people were asking about the rear main seal. The general consensus is if it's not currently leaking do not touch it, cuz a new one will leak for sure.
How many miles are on it? On the list of items I would consider with the engine out would be the rear main seal (oil seal), rear cam seals (o-ring), oil pan gasket, and would be easy to do valve/rocker cover gaskets.
The car used to belong to @yuseforester he did the timing,water pump and the rollers along with the valve covers. The milage is unknown. I also saw the same on the rear main if it's not leaking DO NOT TOUCH.
I have the same opinion. Due to it's size, it's fairly easy to get it crooked when installing. It's not uncommon to cause a leak by trying to replace it. I might throw valve cover gaskets at it. There's an o-ring under the wrist-pin access plate opposite the oil separator plate. Doesn't hurt to do that. That's about the only thing I would do, regardless of condition. Maybe valve cover gaskets, but those are not terrible on a 2.2, so it would really depend on how long I intended to keep the car, and how "perfect" I wanted to keep it (if it was my winter beater....hell no. My wife's car....yea)
Thanks @Chux Have any tips on pulling the motor? It'll be my first time so any tips or tricks would help.
It's really pretty easy. Since it's your first time, think about taking pictures as you go. Like when you take each thing off or after a couple things. Sounds silly but has saved me a few times. Also, have some bungie cords and jack stands ready for misc things such as holding the exhaust up after you unhook it, and then the AC and power steering pump out of the way and to the side. Start with the exhaust, motor and tranny mounts. Chances are you'll make a mess with your coolant and it's no fun going under there afterwards. After that, pull your radiator and work your way back. Take your time and label things if necessary. It's really as easy as just unbolting a lot of little things and just reversing that order when you put it back in. One thing that helped me a lot at my previous job was writing down what you take off in the order you do it. That way when it's time to put it back together you just start at the end and go backwards.
The one trick on an auto motor is removing the 4 torque converter to torque plate bolts. If you remove them you will be less likely to pull the torque converter off of the input shaft. Once you are to the point of lifting the motor, you will need something (pry bar, or similar) to hold the torque converter back.
