After doing my brakes (resurfaced rotors, new pads) I have a loud popping noise from my front left brake under braking at 15mph or slower. The harder the pedal is pushed, the worse it gets. Its consistent, like a binding noise, pop, pause, pop, pause, with a definite interval, (see lower for my comment about the half shaft). I took the rotor off today and had it resurfaced. It was perfect, so that's not the problem. I turned the shaft without the rotor or caliper on and didn't hear any noises, not even a slight scratching. Ive noticed lately that a slight hum I've had for awhile in the front end is progressively getting louder. Its still nothing more than noise I'd expect from tires, but I remember the car was quieter than this in previous years. This couldn't be a wheel bearing...could it? Awfully odd characteristics if it was. I'm assuming its a CV under lubricated, so my plan was to get some regional lube and a new boot and see if I couldn't fix it. I just figured if I had it all torn apart like that it would make sense to do everything. Wheel bearings, bushings, etc. Any one have better ideas?
1. ball joint. 2. control arms. 3. shock tower. some old wives tale about.... if you can jack the car up in the air, grab the rim. tilt/move/ with your hands on rim/tire at 12 and 6 o'clock. does it move/wiggle alot? tilt the rim at 9 and 3 o'clock does it move alot? this will differentiate between ball joints and something else, i think control arms, in an AWD vehicle it might not work but im sure the theory is the same. wheel bearing advice all i have is, I heard something about if you turn LEFT and it makes noise the RIGHT side is bad, same if you turn RIGHT and makes noise the LEFT is bad.
it kind of sounds like a bad inner cv axle joint. once it starts to make noise it is too far gone to revive it.
If you can wiggle the tire at 12 and 6 thats generally the ball joints, 9 and 3 usually means the tie rod ends are shot. But I've nver heard of either of these making noise caused by braking. cv joints will mak a popping or klunking noise when turning but usually worsens under acceleration not breaking. Can you feel any thing in the pedal (pulsing, etc)??
you guys gave some great advise^^ I didn't catch it, was the noise there befoer you did the brakes? If not, I'd also check the simple things....like, did you place the clips back in when you replaced the pads? Otherwise the pad could be moving slightly
I remember in my car, a contour, when I applied the brakes I heard and FELT the popping, thru the floorboard, it was kinda bad. then when I accelerated, it went away, until I jabbed teh brakes again. Or came into a particular scenario when I know I will hear the pop, like pulling in my driveway. Found out my lower control arm bolt was bent, and slightly geeked, probably from a hard curbie from previous owner showing its colors. In that car you couldnt just purchase a new control arm bushing. you had to get a whole new arm. I drilled out the ball joints and replaced, but it wasnt that, it was the control arm, at least on my car anyway...... endlinks, yadda yadda, But like Im saying the popping was SO bad, that it almost made me cringe a little on the inside. A sound you KNOW COULD NOT be coming from the calipers, or the pads hahah. no way. Finally it got so bad it sounded metal on metal and i finally plunked down for a new L and R set. On that car it was a bicvuhddoihjc to do cause the tranny housing was in the way of the bolt removal, but it was easy in the end witha couple jacks and some swearing. It drives like a dream now, what a difference new bushings, ball joints, and endlinks made, tightend it up tremendously. Not saying its your problem by any means, just saying my POPPING front end story.
There isnt a pulsing, but the popping feeling transfers through the pedal. Not so much the steering wheel. The noise was not there before the brake job. I went back and resurfaced the rotor. The guidance clips were put into the caliper the first time, but I checked them, as well as greased them with the correct lube. The pistons were compressed flush to set them even, and the pads that I had were sanded (had 90% life left). I think its a CV, but I am going to get a balljoint as well as the lube and boots for them. I was told by a transmission mechanic at the shop on base that binding in CV's can be easily, and permanently corrected if it is caught early on, by repacking them with good grease. I have watched him rebuild and install over 25 transmissions, driveshaft's, halfshaft's, differentials, transfercases, etc. so I trust his word.
anybody have any other thoughts on this? I need to drive the car to miramar on the coast from here (3 hour drive) this coming weekend, and am spending tues-friday in the field. I need to resolve it today or tomorrow. does any of the info above help in diagnosing?
nevermind, got it ironed out. Looks like the woman who resurfaced them for me didn't pay attention to the tolerances and the cut was rough enough that it was causing my pads to pitch when initially contacting the rotor
