clear coat. My friend wanted to help and forgot to mask the tire and the valve steam. Not a big deal i am ditching the tires and going to order a set of federals.
Lookin good so far. Seen a few blue Miatas out on the road, now I know to look the sleepy headlights. Keep at it man.
Thanks. Here are the tires i am getting. http://www.frsport.com/Federal-148I...t-Competition-Tires-185-55R14-80V_p_2148.html
I should have mentioned this, but I didn't think of it when I wrote that instruction set. Did you use a dremel or a buffing wheel attachment? Also, when sanding, it is best to keep following the direction of the lip, meaning, don't sand in circles. Sand in straight lines. And try to keep your sanding going the circumference of the wheel. Everytime you stop or change direction with your sand paper, it causes it to 'swirl'
At first i used a dremel but the attachment i used wore out after one wheel was done. So i got a drill sanding disk and just used that. It left a ton of scratch marks, but i used 1500 grid sand paper and the mother billet on it and it turned out ok.
The trick is to use sand paper by hand. After the sanding disk, you should have just used the 400/800/1000/1500/2000 setup to smooth everything over.
yeah i did 400 and jumped right to 1500 i did not get 2000. I tried to take my time but it just takes way too long. Will try to do like you said on the other two rims to see if it looks better. Thanks for the tips.
The reason you step from 400 to 800 to 1000 to 1500 to 2000 is because each higher grit paper will remove the scratch marks and pits from the one before it. If you jump straight to 1500 from 400, 1500 wont remove the swirls and scratches that 400 makes.
here is the result. One of the wheels need to be redone. The can was running out and i did not notice it. So i will redo it later. I love the LowPro pop ups.
thanks. The lights dont work right. They make the turn signals go a little crazy but i think its just because they draw a lot power.
yeah I was. No I painted it and clear coated. It still looks like poo but a little better poo. Just waiting for prices on aftermarket grills to come down. Don't want to pay 300+ for a zero sports one or jdm Sti one.
just went to a deserted parking lot and did some fun as hell doughnuts . I love RWD!:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
ok, i am working on the idea of turbo charging the miata. I want to take it easy at first and just do a very simple turbo install with stock everything. So what do i really need here? I want someone who knows how to do Diy turbo upgrades to fill me in. So for the list of things that i need: 1. Small Turbo (obviously), will td04 work? 2. Turbo manifold that will match up with the turbo 3. Intake pipeing 4. Fuel pressure regulator? 5. Timing retard box? 6. downpipe. 7. oil lines 8. Coolant lines? What other things should i get to make sure this all works. Again, i am not doing a crazy build here at first, just practicing and what to see what comes out of this. I have two options: 1. Buy a prefabbed kit 1600 to 2500 or 2. Make my own kit using parts from all over the place. So please keep this constructive and i need someone’s help here. Thanks in advance, Taras
so no one has any idea. I bet there are a few people with some fabbing skills and experience. Like good old honda turbo projects.
just me, but id think it would be more cost worthy to buy a prefabed kit so it is more likely to work and probably less stressful to put together. finding all of those parts and paying to have them work together seems like it would end up costing the same amount for something that might have a lot more problems down the road. but im surprised that your planning on FI so early. why dont you get that thing to drive better first. tackle the handling and looks stuff first and then move on to the things that make it faster. its a miata so no one expects it to dip down a straight line. its supposed to walk around an autoX.
I just always wanted to put a turbo on an NA car. The kit is 1600- 2500 and I would think that would be the most fun to install and most satisfying(sp). I have springs for it just need to install them.
c'mon dude. get some coilovers for that thing. coilovers, spacers or deep wheels, rolled fenders, roll bar, that thing could sit so aggressive. dont waste a good project car.
so you are telling me to go all show and no go? I have pretty much zero use for coilovers. Roll bar would be nice, that's my next purchase. And wheels are hard to find. It seems like everyone has a miata with coilovers and deepdish wheels. But not too many people have turbo on miatas.
a miata isnt meant to be "go".... they are cars that go around corners carrying momentum.... but turbo it up. why do you have "zero use" for them?
oh yeah for sure! a turbo would make a miata even more fun but im just saying that id rather start out tackling the handling/stance stuff before i went to town on the engine bay. idk where taras is seeing so many deep dish miatas. to be honest ive only seen one in person and it was complete hawtness. i see more turbo stock looking ones that probably have every dollar invested to keep it from blowing up.
BOV, INJ, some kind of MAP sensor bypass, (Dont know it that car has map or maf sensor, but pic posted by Toaster shows straight hard pipes, so guessing MAP), FMIC, possibly boost controller (depend on WG), and more stuff i cant think of. Dont forget, MISC hoses, fittings and more.... Good ole honda turbo projects?? http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27074 All made from backyard. cut, measured, welded.
yeah I think I will most likely go with a prefabbed kit. Greedy makes a kit for 1600. And that will net me an extra 50whp on stock everything. Than I can add a fpr and retard box an later go to stand alone and run 15ps if tuned right.
wouldnt 15psi in an engine with high reving high compression pistons be a bit much? im not a turbo guru but dont you want to lower the compression with a different HG and new pistons?
