Removing Front Control Arms

Discussion in 'Modifications And Maintenance' started by EtchyLives, May 8, 2008.

  1. EtchyLives
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    EtchyLives Well-Known Member

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    I've unbolted everything (Front bolt, two rear bolts on the bushing, castle nut and cotter pin) yet the FCA will not come off the bolt from the ball joint.

    Any tricks to get it off or is it seized?

    Should I bother taking it off or just order some Ball Joints?

    Also, please confirm that replacing a ball joint is as simple as loosening the bolt on the bottom of the knuckle, sliding out the BJ, and then reversing the process with the new BJ.
     
  2. Scuba Steve
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    Scuba Steve Well-Known Member

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    IIRC I had to use a pickle fork to sperate the ball joint from the knuckle. They are tight, very tight, but they will come out.
     
  3. curly2k3
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    curly2k3 Well-Known Member

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    BFH solves any and all problems in life.
     
  4. Jackstand
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    Jackstand Well-Known Member

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    Quoted for the truth pickle fork not need lots of man power and a big hammer. thats how i did it lol
     
  5. Hallywood
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    Hallywood Well-Known Member

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  6. Jackstand
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    Jackstand Well-Known Member

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    O yeah forgot about that bugger.... But if you are saving the ball joint just hit hard... But if you are replacing them take the top of it out first... Much much easier
     
  7. EtchyLives
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    EtchyLives Well-Known Member

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    I got it. Here's how:

    Removed all nuts and bolts from FCA.

    Swung it around so it was hanging out of the wheel well. Commenced BFH-enabled obstacle reduction.

    The entire ball joint came out (it was stuck to the FCA). Flipped FCA upside down and carefully tapped out the ball joint with the BFH. Put ball joint back on to car and tightened everything down.
     
  8. curly2k3
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    curly2k3 Well-Known Member

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    i told you, BFH. it solves all automotive related problems.
     
  9. Vector
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    Vector Rally Organizer

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    One way or another.

    The blue wrench is handy too.
     
  10. curly2k3
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    curly2k3 Well-Known Member

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    oh yeah, precision tools and correct tools help...but the BFH never lets ya down either.
     
  11. EtchyLives
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    EtchyLives Well-Known Member

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    I actually talked to Matt Monson about it and his first recommendation was the BFH.

    I remembered seeing 'Ball Joint Tool' in Checker but I managed to get it all back together without it. I didn't even jack up the threads on the BJ bolt, either.
     
  12. 1_sic_rex
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    1_sic_rex Well-Known Member

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    The joy of corroded suspension components. (thanks Minnesota)
     
  13. piddster
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    piddster Lone Wolf

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    I usually take out the pinch bolt so I can slide it out of the knuckle. One time I had a ball joint take hours of pounding with a 3lb hammer to get out of the damn control arm. Now I only take them out of the control arm if I plan on destroying them.:laugh:
     
  14. curly2k3
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    curly2k3 Well-Known Member

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    thats because Matt knows whats up too, seriously, from my learnings the suspension especially tends to be rusty and sticks the most. BFH means business and gets it loose fast.
     
  15. EtchyLives
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    EtchyLives Well-Known Member

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    I took the pinch bolt out, too.

    The second one was a bit more of a PITA. I ALMOST wasn't able to get the castle nut back on after swapping. But then I got smart and figured out how to stop the ball joint from turning.

    I've been in the garage all morning. I just snapped another damned endlink bolt.

    In happier news I got the rest of my tranny bushings put it. That was fun.
     
  16. piddster
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    piddster Lone Wolf

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    Should have let me know. I wouldn't have stayed up till 3, and I could have lent a hand.