i know there is all these ways to mod you wrx and sti. i was just wondering if people would give some inputs on modding a rs. i know it gets expensive when you want major power but any little bit of power would help. Show the ways and steps. thanks for all info's.
There's too much to know. Where do you want to start? Engine? Suspension? Exterior/Interior? Drivetrain?
headers and a lightweight pulley will help you out a bit...but a swap would yeild more hp for the money
Lightweight flywheel Exedy Organic Clutch Lightweight Pullies equal length headers catless exhaust (2.25") cold air intake tuned Perfect Power Now you'd be set, and nearly as quick as a wrx... to 60 although it'd cost almost as much as a swap :cry:
also if you guys have an idea of the price ranges of each of the parts and an idea of the gains( either hp or time off the 1/4) would be appreciated too. i'm just trying to help out myself and any other rs owners on the limits of the rs and prices and then maybe compare it to a swap. thanks guys
the best 0-60 part i would hafta say is the flywheel, when i installed mine, it was insane compared to stock, but you'll lose top end, soobies dont really have top end anyways :evil:
engine swap. EJ20's can be found for cheap. A new STI shortblock isn't very expensive either, but you'd be better off hitting up one of those 800 dollar WRX engines on eBay. All you'd need would be a wiring harness and an ECU after that.
^^doesn't it scare the crap out of the alternator when the alarm goes off by the way you hooked up your alarm??? Hehehe, I love your engine bay, dud3!
If you want, here's a baseline you could use and try to beat its price. $4000!!! to get mid-14's and staying normally aspirated. Cobb Tuning! http://cobbtuning.com/impreza/powerpackage3.html#streetcam Rallitek header: Staying N/A? This header will bolt onto your Brullen catback (you have a brullen, right?) http://www.rallitek.com/products.asp?ID=70&PP=&HB=&ACC=&SP=Y AVO turbo kit: Rallitek again. The best price on an AVO turbo kit ever! I assume it is reliable, but I'm not totally sure. There are many guys with this turbo kit on www.rs25.com that are happy with their empty wallet. http://www.rallitek.com/products.asp?ID=600&PP=Y Z1 Performance: Exedy SPORT clutch. This is a different place with a different price as what I've told you from before, Paul. This clutch holds about 29% more torque... which should be enough to handle AVO's turbo kit. http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=legacy&cat=driveline&prodid=62
if you were gonna go turbo kit, ide make sure you had headgaskets done, with the updated gasket, yours is the dohc headgasket eater
you can use a 2006 2.5i intake manifold, Techworks Shortblock package w cams (stage 1 or 2) and a techworks equal length header and you will be faster than a WRX. All of this is going to run you about as much as an engine swap costs however, but the results are pretty good. To get to STi power on this setup you'd need to run race gas an an insane compression ratio, but it has been done. TWE has a car that's build rivals an STi swap that is faster on the 2.5RS motor, but I wouldnt consider it streetable because the compression ratio forces it to use nothing but 100+ octane gas.
i have an 06 2.5i - is there a chip i can put in to add a few more hp. i've heard it done, more with audi's but i think the 2.5i comes stock with 170 hp or something - what could i do to get it over 200? flywheel?
you wont see alot of 'chips' for the subarus. you will be looking at getting a reflash/protune. untill then look into freeing up exhaust.
if you want big power out of the RS you will be best off with a swap. since w/ the swap there is alot of aftermqarket parts and mods you can do. while staying Na youa re fairly limited. possible NA mods: perfect power headers (equal lenght has been rumored to remove boxer ruble) catback intake short shifter flywheel clutch high comp. pistons titanium valve train w/ springs cams intake manifold port and polish. most of these can be done w/ or w/o a swap. and the dissadvantag is that w/ higher compresiion you will no get close to the potention power a swap would yield and still be streetable. but if you are crazy and want NA check out the TWE (tech works engineering) 230whp NA RS.
well if i was to mod my RS for power. here's the route i'd go if i dont go turbo. cobb CAI - 100-300$ depending on condition cobb equal length headers with cat delete- 400-900$ depending on condition custom 2.5in straight pipe with 3.5in magnaflow tip- 35-200$ twe or cobb street cams- 300-500$ exedy organic clutch and lightweight flywheel- 600-700$ perfect power 300-500$ that's about all the major mods i can think of before doing internal work or swap
thats a good setup. i would personally go with some non equal lenght headers. maybe borla or something else. and possibly a port and polish. if no cams i might say go w/ 2.25" exhuast i have heard the high back pressure give better numbers on RSs. unsure though.
cobb's headers take away the boxer sound, as do any equal length system, but do make around 3 more hp then borla, ide trade the hp for the sound, you cant feel 3 hp anyways
<-- my vinyl graphics add +15HP... Each side. :lol: Or if you want some serious bang for the buck (until you break something, of course)... We now return you to our regularly scheduled serious suggestions.
Sorry, Erik. I have to partly disagree with you. Just tested last year, the borla header was the bottle neck for a heavily modified N/A RS. The RS ran a 14.5 or something on teh 1/4 and the owner didn't know what was wrong. When he changed the headers to equal length, the car was tuned again and ran somewhere in the mid 13's. I understand this was a heavily modified car, but it isn't a 3 HP difference going from a Borla header to an equal length header. Cobb's EL header prooved 13 WHP on a close to stock RS. But you should understand that Cobb also has a high-flowing cat in place of the 2 OEM cats. There you have it.
i would prefer the sound over the hp also. the borlas maybe the bottle neck but who said you need to use borla. if you can get Fuji brand!!!!! his RULE!
i personally like it, i had them on my Silver RS and the sound was awesome especially at wOt...the car still rumbles downlow...the tone only changes when you're at wOt. actually the power difference between the borla and equal length header is a BIG amount. A friend of mine has borla headers with catback in his RS and his wasn't as fast as my silver one at all. I can instantly walk him.
the equal lenghts dont neccesarily sound bad, they just sound differnet. since the echasut from each head has totravel teh same lenght there is no interference from the gases. w/ the non equal lengths, one side od the exuast has to travel a greater distance before the two meet up again, so when the meet up they interfer w/ each other and make good sounds.
stock are equal, but petes old rs had crazy cobb headers, it sounded like a pissed off inline somthing or other, no rumble to it at all though
are stocks equal? i could have sworn that the drivers side has to travel farther before it meets up with the passenger side.
stocks are NOT equal. They are equal on the new 06 RS's though... personally i plan on getting equal length cus i would take performance over sound.
you can buy a wrx motor for about 3k depending on certain things. then your labor is free, lol. i have heard people say around 5k for a wrx swap. http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22095
did you hear it when i put that 2.5 straigth pipe on it? it rumbles like a subaru without borla headers til i went wot.
