Slipping Clutch

Last summer my clutch began to die. It would act fine but when the turbo hit it would rev like it was in neutral and then eventually catch. In September, I had a new ACT flywheel and Exedy organic clutch put in. Now it is slipping when the turbo spools, the same thing it was doing 4 months ago. How can a new clutch go out after 1000 miles? Does it have anything to do with the cold weather?

 

Did you install a new pressure plate?

Was the hydraulic system bled properly?

 

+1 on that question

 

what is the proper way to bleed the clutch system? I think I know, but want to double check.

 

Just crack the bleeder and have some one push the clutch to the floor. Then close the bleeder and pull the clutch peddle back. Repeat as necessary. Also the hydraulic system would have nothing to do with the clutch slipping.

 

I am more curious about if a new pressure plate was installed.

Other options are:
The disc is glazed over from improper clutch technique, Operator error.

A bad clutch disk from exedy

A rear main oil leak that was never attended to when the new clutch was put in.

A front trans seal leak that was never attended to when the new clutch was put in.

Act flywheel was/is not flat causing excessive wear on the disc.

Act flywheel was not heat treated properly and has worn premature tearing up the disc.

All are possible options, but the end result is you will have to pull it out to find out. As for the bleeding; just like Iroc-Z said

 

Proper break in period????

 

exedys trouble shooting guide.

http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/specsheets/trblshtng06.pdf

 

It wouldn't cause the clutch to necessarily slip, but if it wasn't pulling the pressure plate all the way off the clutch, it could be making some contact and burning the clutch surface whenever the car is running...

 

I would like to add Oil baffle plate leak to this list

Correction:
Lame rear plate that does this and was at one time made of super strength plastic :roll:

 

Good add, but some know it as the rear access cover...

 

I show "Cover oil separator" on the receipt

FYI if you pull the clutch, replacement PN's are:
11831AA210 x1
800406150 x1 (bolt)
800406140 x5 (more bolts)

Though if its not plastic RTV works well also

 

Aluminum plates are best, but they are less common, and have been superseded by the stamped steel one.

 

add wrist pin access plug to the list

 

Yeah but then it would not shift right and you would grind gears. It sounds like your pressure plate may be damaged. Or you really know how to abuse a clutch.