Hey all> I've been away for a while, but have a question about a potential slippy clutch. My 02 WRX wagon, with some only recent 92 octane fill ups has exhibited some performace that appears to be slippy clutch, but may be turbo lag? For example, while cruising at highway speed (60 MPH), I go WOT and my RPM go from 3500, jump 500 RPM, then grips and goes. Is this 'turbo lag'? I really haven't worked my WRX to the limits to learn how the turbo works, and only recently (with drop in petrol cost) have run the 92 octane fuel. Is this fuel causing slippy clutch? or is this normal operation when stomping on the go pedal? The car is now at 85K. I look forward to any constructive commentary.
First of all, always run 91 or better. If you are worried about fuel costs, you bought the wrong car. Second, it does sound like your clutch is starting to go.
yes...its your clutch going out...you need a new one....and the fuel doesn't do anything with your clutch unless you got some on the disc.....but buy a new one and install it....
if your cruisin in 4th gear at about 3K rpms and give the clutch a quick pop you should feel it grab if not you know its pretty toasted.
Well, I've been getting along with my clutch, keeping it from slipping by not going WOT. I am interested in finding some of you enthusiasts recommendations for type of clutch for replacement (cost an issue). And maybe get the install by someone here? I lean toward OEM. Looking forward to suggestions and constructive commentary.
OEM is never a bad choice, unless you're making more than stock levels of power. However, most OEM companies don't list a CLUTCH KIT, you'll have to buy the components seperately. I know several people have had good luck with other aftermarket options as well. Since its a daily driver, I'd definitely keep a sprung center.
I'd say any stage one or two thats going to have a reasonable pressure plate should work. But then again, I'm still driving on my slippy clutch. Thanks Tim.
oh snap. Back on topic, I'd only go with an OEM clutch with a WRX tranny. Any extra "grip" from an aftermarket clutch is going to be transferred to the gearset which can cause spendy repairs.....especially if you are too cheap to run 91-92 octane gas.
pardon the lame question, but may I assume the clutch is hydraulic and self adjusting? By the 'kit' should one include the replacement of the following items (snipped from parts resource): Disc, Pilot bearing, Release bearing I don't imagine having to replace (or am I wrong?, or are these parts which should be replaced regardless): flywheel Pressure plate Also I see two types of clutches (is one an STi) MT.205 MT.251
Oh, come on, enough with the snarky octane comment :ugh:, I'm interested in constructive commentary from enthusiasts.
Enthousiasts will tell you to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and put "Premium Fuel" in your car. That's what it was intended to run, so that's what you should be buying. As far as the clutch goes, if yours is slipping badly, you will have to replace the Clutch, Cover (Pressure Plate), Release Bearing (Throw-out Bearing), and the Pilot Bearing (Unless you buy a new flywheel from Subaru, which will have one in it).
Also to add on, the proper clutch will be listed under the engine # EJ205. The EJ251 is a 2.5RS (Naturally Aspirated - Non-turbo). I have recently installed 2 ACT "Modified Street Disks" and the people seem to like them. Holds a bit more power than stock.
Thanks for the info, driftin240. I am still looking for those who may be interested in doing the clutch install for me in addition to getting the group discount on the stock parts. I've got a window between 9 March and 16 March, when I will have access to another vehicle, so that time frame works best for me.
