Heres the deal I can drive 20 miles away from my house to use a lift to install my uppipe, but I'll be under a time constraint since I'll be on an airforce base hobby shop time schedule. OR I can do it right in my garage on ramps and have all the time in the world. Which would you prefer?? My worries are damaging something and having to leave the car there for a few days. I've got oem uppipe gaskets on the way and new uppipe studs as well, anything else I need? I'm really dreading putting this thing in anyone got some tips to help me along??
i would agree with curly thats what im going to do do for my up and dp. we took off my stock dp on a jack if a remember right. good luck
From what I hear, PB blast, or another real good penetrating oil, most say WD-40 won't cut it in this application.
Oh, and on that note, most also recommend to apply the penetrant the night before, so yeah, do it in you're garage.
pb blaster, sockets, rachet, wrenches, o2 socket, and some elbow grease and some time, and makes it alot easier with another person.
its straight forward... take your time... takes about 4 hrs give or take... but on jack stands maybe a little longer... those who say 2 hrs on jack stands are probably timing from just the install If you have access to an impact.. highly recommend it especially a 3/8ths one...
I did my up pipe in my garage, by myself, and it took like 5-6 hours, I also gutted my stock up pipe so that took a little time as well. Its not really that hard, but more time consuming. Don't try and rush it, cause its not going to get it done any faster.
Don't forget about tricking the EGT if you are not putting it in the new pipe. I forget the resistor size that you will put in the harness. Maybe 1100 ohms 1/2 watt, not sure. When Nathan did mine we removed the exhaust manifold and down pipe. He had some really long extensions and swivels to get to those bolts. We also removed the nuts from the motor mounts so we could jack up the engine a couple inches to make room. I put in a bosal one and it has been working great since installation. I regret not doing the downpipe at the same time.
2.2 resistor...I have a ton laying around from previous installations if needed. otherwise they're real cheap at radio shack
how long of an extension do I need? Also I hear the heatsheild around the passanger side mani is a biotch of get out??
Its fine once you get the front O2 sensor out. Cut a slot in it with a dremel or something once its off so you can remove or install it with the O2 senso in place.
not true, it takes a few minutes but pretty easy. if your heat shield is not cut for the O2 sensor you will you take that out first...by way of the wheel well. O2 sensor remover is helpful the longer extensions can be used for the turbo to up-pipe nuts. Otherwise a normal 3/8th inch drive extension can be used for the manifold to up-pipe bolts. I personally like to use 1/2 inch drive on 99% of the nuts. Just MAKE SURE you soak everything ahead of time with PB blaster so you don't have issues with the up-pipe studs and other bolts/nuts.
do you plan on unbolting the motor mount and lifting the motor a few inches it makes it a TON easier? also penetrating oil!!!!!!!!
