I have a 02 wrx. I need to know the easiest way to properly shim the valves. I know I need a special tool to compress the spring. I was just wondering if there was any other way.
Question, are your heads completely disassembled? If the valves and springs are still in the heads, then you don't need to compress the springs. And shimming doesn't require a spring compressor, as the shims go on the buckets if they are shimmed buckets.
heads are still on the motor. I was looking at the shop manual and it showed the tool. Just wondering. How do i get the proper measurement for the correct shim? Feeler gauge?
The buckets are what the shims sit in right? Sorry I sound like a dumb@$$. I do have engine know how. Just the first thing I had to do to a subaru engine. 143000 miles on the beast.
You don't necessarily have to remove the valves from the heads. But if you do wish to remove them, you'll need the spring compressor. Keep close tabs on what buckets and shims come from what holes. I'd bag them and label the bags for EACH hole, or use plastic cups. Something. You just don't want to lose track of where the shims go. If there isn't a lash problem now with your heads, then I'd just put them right back in where they go, do a lash check to make sure everything is in order, and then put them back on the block. In order of steps (for me at least) for full disassembly of a head: 1) remove valve covers and associated parts. 2) Remove camshafts noting where each cam cap goes. Keep the bolts and caps together and separate from any other bolts or caps. Label their location on the container 3) Remove buckets/shims from heads, bagging or storing each individually and labelling the containers. My label system was D for drivers side head, P for passenger side head, I for intake, E for exhaust, then then I numbered the holes fore to aft. So, the aft most intake bucket on teh drivers side head was DI8 4) Remove head bolts 5) Remove heads from block. OPTIONAL SECTION**** 6) Remove valvesprings by compressing spring with spring compressor till the two retaining clips are freed from teh valve shaft. Remove the clips with a magnet. Place retaining clips, retainer, and valve spring in a container separate of all others and label the same way you labeled the buckets. You can probably just toss them in with the container with the corresponding bucket. 7) Remove valves from head. Put them with their corresponding parts, label accordingly. Remember, you want everything to go back where it came from. 8) Remove valve seals Re-assembly: 1) Install new valve seals. 2) Re-install valves in their corresponding locations 3) Using spring compressor, place spring and retainer in their correct hole, compress so that the shaft of the valve protrudes from the retainer exposing the indentation in the stem for the retaining clips. It helps to grease the clips so that they stick to the stem upon de-tensioning the spring. Slowly detent the spring till the retaining clips slide into the retainer and grip the indent in the valve shaft. Repeat this process for all valves on both heads. 4) Install buckets with shims in their correct locations as per your labelling. 5) Install camshafts, cam caps and bolts. Torque bolts to correct torque. 6) start at Intake port 1, valve 1, rotate the cam lobe 180 degrees from the valve bucket surface (pointing straight up out of the head). Use your feeler gauge to check for correct clearance as per the tech publication Repeat step for all valves intake and exhaust in both heads. Replace shims as necessary to adjust for out of tolerance measurements. 7) remove camshafts/cam caps/bolts. 8) ensure block and head mating surfaces are clean of all residue and grime from previous headgasket installation. Green scouring pads and acetone work wonders. 9) Place new headgasket on block and place head on block. 10) Re-install head bolts in accordance with the tech procedure, torque head bolts using tech procedure. 11) install camshafts/cam caps/bolts and torque according to tech procedure. 12) check valve lash again if you wish according to the procedure I listed in step 6 (never hurts to double check) 13) re-install valve cover using new gasketry.
Thanks for all of the info. I just need to adjust the lash. I need to get the shims out without completely dismantling the heads. Need the tool to get shims out from underneath the cam.
I have a set of heads that were disassembled by someone else and everything is lablebled but..... I've got the components for the valvetrain for both heads all mixed togather in one bag.... this is going to be a head ache, I wish they would have done this as you stated readymix, can't overstate the importence of lableing everthing obsesivly well.
Yep, the amount of work you have to do to re-assemble is directly related to how meticulous you are when you bag and tag them. Seriously, a package of 20 solo cups is what, a couple bucks at the grocery store? I can't stress how just a little bit of preparation can save you a TON of time and headache.
It's a thread hijack, I know... But, along these lines: I see lots of pics of people marking engine parts with Sharpie permanent markers. Any parts that should NOT be marked with permanent marker? I'm guessing it would be fine for everything, but figure its probably better to ask first. I personally am going to try the ziplocks with the zipper (no futzing trying to close the back with shop-dirty hands) and the white label on the bag - along with the industrial strength Sharpies and some flag-over-box zip-ties for wiring harnesses.
The white label ziplock baggies work great. If you go in my garage right now you'll find hundreds of them. On the teardown day, I gave everyone a fist full of baggies and a sharpie.
