02 wrx performance

I'm lookin at buying an intake, downpipe, intercooler, ECU and lowering springs. What are the best buy for these products.:???:
Thanks Evan

 

what up Evan! not sure what u mean about ecu, but i am a fan of the u-tech. if you want a stand alone link makes a great step up. down pipe i would stick with anything bell mouth design and 3". and if your going to do a down pipe just save your money and get a full cat back too. if your going to do just one do a cat back first. intake, and this is just my opinion, but i would run the stock intake with k&n drop in filter. u can switch to an intake after u get your ecu figured out. intercooler, i have the MRT top mount and am happy with it. a lot of people like front mounts, but i am a fan of stay'n with the top mount. I know perrin makes a good top mount also. drop springs i would say tein or eibach. they both r a nice drop and r not to rough of a ride.

 

I'm not sure how far you want to go with your car, so I'll answer your questions assuming that you will only be installing the parts listed. Starting from the top.

Intake - Brian hit this one right on the head with leaving the stock airbox, and installing a drop-in filter. I would recommend removing the silencer that resides in the passenger side fender and get a drop-in. This will give you better flow and is good to at least 300 HP. Once you start messing with bigger turbos and such, then I would look at intakes.

Downpipe - I recently installed an aftermarket DP on my car. It depends on what route you want to go with this. The car has three catalytic converters. The first one is in the uppipe, the second is in the downpipe, and the third is in the midpipe. I would recommend that if you do the downpipe, you also do the uppipe. There are different types of downpipes. There are "long" and "short" downpipes. The long models replace downpipe and the midpipe, removing two "cats" from the car. The short models only replace the stock downpipe. If you end up getting a long one, beware that you are totally catless, and will get a popping sound from your exhaust from unburnt fuel. I installed the short pipe, in my signature, and will install a catless midpipe separately. If you buy an up and dp that are not ceramic coated, I would definitely recommend it to reduce heatsoak to your intercooler. Which brings me to the next section.

Intercooler - Again, assuming that these are the only parts, along with a few other minor parts, that you will be installing, a front mount intercooler is not needed. A higher cfm top mount should be fine for what you are doing.

ECU - This is the most important part of the car to upgrade. I will be going with Cobb's EM system called the Accessport, and if it is ever released, the AccessTuner. On a stock car, a Cobb stage 1 reflash will get you ~30hp. With a tbe (consisting of a downpipe and catback) a Cobb stage 2 reflash will get you ~60hp.

Lowering Springs - I have not done any research on these, so I will not comment.

Parts list:

downpipe - http://www.daddysscp.com/cgi-bin/pl...=DSCP&Product_Code=STRMTTDPCC&Category_Code=E
uppipe - http://www.daddysscp.com/cgi-bin/pl..._Code=DSCP&Product_Code=CRUPP&Category_Code=E
intercooler (Perrin) - http://www.jscspeed.com/wrx/intercoolers/perrin_tmic.htm
CobbTuning - http://www.cobbtuning.com/main.html
Cobb Accessport - http://cobbtuning.com/wrx/accessport.html
Cobb AccessTuner - http://www.accessecu.com/products/street-tuner.html

Hope this helps.

Darrick

 

I'm not only buying these products. I was just planning on buying these products in the next month. I am planning on buy a bigger turbo too. So i'am not just buying those product i am planning on buying a lot more performance upgrades. Thanks for your help.
Evan.

 

I'm planning on buying about $3,000 worth of parts. I just want the most HP i can get but i dont want the engine to blow on me after i spend all my money on it. All i have right now is the borla hush exhaust. What i want out of my car is to be able to beat every other car. Thats noe asking much is it.

What do you think would be the best way to go,
Thanks for your help

 

What kind of EM do you want? Do you want to be able to set it and forget it, or do you want to have a programmable system that requires dyno time and tuning sessions? Personally, I like the Cobb system (if you couldn't tell already), because it is simple, fairly inexpensive, and the maps are quite conservative. Here is an example of how to get ~240whp with Cobb's tune.

VF34 w/93 octane map:

Requires:
1. VF34 Turbo
2. STi Injectors
3. Stock Intake & Intercooler (shouldn't be hard )
4. TBE (you already have catback, so only DP is needed)

Parts list:

VF34 Turbo, STi injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump pkg: $1199.00 + s&h
http://www.mpjperformance.com/cgi-l...roduct_Code=IHI-VF34INJ&Category_Code=SENGTUR

<u>Here are the cobb options, I would recommend the Accessport over the reflash since it allows you to change maps as necessary:</u>

Cobb Reflash: $395.00 + s&h (you send your ECU to them to flash)
http://www.cobbtuning.com/wrx/accessecu.html

Cobb Accessport: $595.00 + s&h
info: http://cobbtuning.com/wrx/accessport.html
purchase: http://hotsubaru.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=139

Downpipe: This is up to you, whether you want to go catless or not, on a catless system, you will see a few more horsepower.I would also recommend a ceramic coated DP as well. Set aside $250-$400 for this piece.

Those are the required parts. You already have the stock intake and intercooler so you are good there, and you have an aftermarket catback. Just as Matt suggested, a panel filter, and some intercooler hoses will not hurt anything. With this setup, an uppipe is inevitable, figure $250 for that piece. So with all of these parts, including the non-required parts, you are looking at a total of $2400.00 +/- with a reflash, and $2600 +/- with the Accessport. Again, this will give you and estimated 320chp, and with a liberal 25% loss of power from the crank to the wheels, you will end up with 240whp plus some with the extra parts. Hope this helps.

Darrick

 

Thanks for all the help. This will really help me out this winter when buying parts. Thanks Evan

 

I say get a utec if you are going with a bigger turbo, cause there are way more maps available than cobb. Also, get a smaller numbered VFXX turbo or a PE1820?, something big, if you want to beat every car out there. Sure it will have more lag but way more top end potential which is where the VF34 will fall short and get owned by larger engines.

Instead of getting an intake get an uppipe. With a catless exhaust on my stock turbo it spools at 2500 rpms and is maxed by 3k. Also make sure to have all nessesary gauges, boost and egt, to monitor your upgrades.

definately check out www.clubwrx.net before you buy anything.

nothing against the cobb setup with the vf34, but with the stock turbo, catless up/tbe, and boost controller i am only running about 15 hp less than that at the flywheel for about $600 on parts versus $2400 for all that stuff.

 

Everyone suggest going with a bigger turbo, thats fine and dandy but the stock TMIC can only do so much. I posted this question on Nasioc.com and found that there are guys running around with a stock TMIC making +280whp with VF turbo's or what ever.

I think everyone has the desire to have monster power. In my case I cannot use all that power at least not with this car. Yeah I wanna have some fun but no I cannot afford to have my car break down. I've been in enough stupid fast cars to know that the more ground you cover in the least amount of time, the quicker your gonna get into trouble.

And another thing you have the stopping power to slow it down with that much more power, just a though, cuz those stocker's will be hurt'n.

In my case I went with a VF34 P&P by the Gray1, Ecutek and Stock mod Injectors. VF34 $699 shipped, P&P $50, Mod Injectors $50, Stock Injectors $40, Ecutek $300, reflashed again $100. Grand total= $ 1239.00

This weekend was the hardest I've pushed my car since upgrading and getting the ECU back from reflash. I was pretty pleased with the power band and how I was able to keep up with the Gray1.

C

 

Don't forget money for a new tranny. If your making a huge amount of power, you will destroy your gears.