So I am trying to replace all rotors and pads on the car. The fronts were simple other than a couple stubborn bolts. Plus the bolt (M8x1.25) trick to push the rotors off works great. But, im stuck on the rears. I had everything apart and was using the bolts to push the rotor off on the rear when I realized I still had the ebrake still engaged. I disengaged it then continued to try getting the rotor off. However it appears the brake shoes are seized inside the rotor and not releasing like it should. I attempted the other side as well and same thing. I have also tried to loosen the cog but its not releasing. My next step is to get longer bolts to screw into the rotor to push off. If that fails then im going to use a hammer and a sharp chisel to try cracking and breaking the rear rotors off. No use keeping them nice since im replacing them with new rotors. Any other ideas or suggestions to get the rear rotors off? Thanks in advance for help.
pulley puller? I had a rear rotor on my truck a couple of weeks ago that was extremely uncooperative....no amount of hammering and beating would get it budge. Than I thought...I wonder if my pulley puller is big enough..it was, and it worked great!
Only thing is, is I got it to pull away from hub which they ussually are stuck to. Now its stuck onto the parking brake that is inside the rotor. Any idea if there is a way to fully release the parking brake? As in unhooking the cable to fully relase? Otherwise im thinking the chisel and hammer will crack the cast rotor. I had to do that on an Integra I used to have where the rotor was stuck on. Also thinking of using a cutoff wheel to rotor in half? Thanks
I've had a few rears be a pain due to the rust lip behind the parking brake shoes. If the handle is down the cable shouldn't be applying any pressure to the shoes. Best luck I had was using the bolts to push the rotor out about 1/2", at least enough to get the shoes into the edge of the drum. Then using a pry bar, against lugs loosely fitted to the wheel bolts, rotate it in both directions while push it out with the bolts. This way the shoes will help remove some of the rust scale from the inner drum. I didn't cause any damage to my shoes but they are cheap if you need to replace them. Your other option would be to drill out/break the shoe retainer pins from the back. Once even one of those is out the whole assembly should come off. New pins/keepers are like $5 at NAPA.
Where are the shoe retainer pins? I had the bolts screwed into the rotor as far in as I could. creating about a half inch opening. enough to see the back of the rotor with the shoes still inside the rotor. I tried prying with a combination of two prybars on both sides of the brake disc area. Nothing budged. The Ebrake handle is completely down. I had my wife pull the handle while I looked at rotor area. When she pulled ebrake lever, the entire rotor would pull in towards the hub since the brake shoes are stuck to the rotor now. I tried spinning the rotor but it is stuck and not allowing it to spin. Because of this im thinking of using a tip i found googling cutting off rotor. Where a guy suggested using a saw to make cuts into rotor then hammer to brake into sections. Unless there is a way to free the shoes inside. Thanks
If you can't get it to rotate at all hammer it back on and spin it as you drive in the screws. It took me a few tries to get it to work. Otherwise the flat back-side of the pins holding the shoes to the knuckle can be seen from the back of the knuckle at the 3 and 9 o-clock positions. Ill try to find a picture.
Item 9 in this picture. Its pretty much like a nail with a flat tip for the retainer to 1/4 turn and lock against. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_3/brake_system/rear_brake/illustration_2/
Those pins are holding the springs and shoes in place right? So if I drill those out like you said, the shoes should release. And then allow the rotor to slide off. Right?
I believe one of those pins fell out on driver side rear. Thanks for the picture! I will try removing those pins and hope that allows the shoes to release.
Yes those two pins hold the shoe to the knuckle and allow them to float during operation. With both pin backings drilled out you should be able to remove the rotor. The shoes will still be held against that upper pivot pin with springs and the trailing shoe will have the parking brake cable attached to an armature behind the shoe. Drilling the pins will just allow the shoes to move enough to get past the rust scale on the rotor. Note I have not had to do this on any of the many rear brakes I have done. I would be careful drilling as to avoid damaging the boss for the pin. If you drill out the knuckle hole you won't be able to use normal factory pins.
Haha I suppose if you pulled hard enough you could break the pin retainer inside but its not the ideal method.
Yeah, this is just a big pain.. I had a tuning appointment with bullwinkle tonight that I had to reschedule. Yesterday I figured the brakes wouldnt be an issue since i knew about the bolt trick in the rotor. So got the fronts done but then the rear rotors got stuck on. I should be able to get it tonight after work. Thanks for the help
looking at the diagram wouldnt you just use part 17 Adjuster assembly-rear brake to release the pressure at the bottom of the pads? Also have you tried using a dead blow hammer? My rears were rusted on solid when I did them the release bolt did nothing I even used a sledge hammer on them and nothing but when I hit them with a dead blow they fell right off the hub.
I ended up using a 4lb hammer with a chisel. I broke the old rotor's into pieces and found the brake shoes on both sides were stuck under the a lip that was created from a combination of brake wear and rust. Got everything replaced but found on both sides the ABS rings had a small chunk break of (im assuming during the use of the 4lb hammer). So now the ABS light is on. Is this a big deal to not have ABS or in the long run will it cause problems since it is AWD and may need ABS for the entire AWD system to function correctly? And is there an easy way to replace the ABS rings, other than having to take apart hub and deal with messing around with wheel bearing removal and pressing in a new one? Thanks!
it doesnt hurt anything just a light on the dash and no abs. I did some looking and found that their pressed in so bring it to the shop unless you have access to a bearing press.
I now this isnt the best choice.. but what about JBwelding the pieces back in place? its just a couple small pieces from inbetween the bolted section.
