It's pretty easy to pull the interior again if you change your mind and the budget gets replenished. Even with a ton of sound deadening, you are still gonna hear the drivetrain!
A couple of months ago I was donated a great condition dash from @ZenBoy (thanks again!). Today I swapped the passenger airbag, center cubby thing, switches, etc from my not-so-great condition dash to the new one and got it installed in the car. The steering column had to come back out. It seems I was sent the wrong steering knuckle adapter from iWire (it's just about a 1/2" too long) so he shipped me a replacement yesterday. Layed the carpet in Just test fitting the center console. That looks like a more comfortable place to take a snooze than on top of the gas tank! (I don't know how he's not in every picture)... My DCCDPro came pre-wired with my merged harness from iWire. I found the controller box a home in front of the air bag module and routed the connectors to the cluster (DCCD output), power, and to the DCCD manual rocker, and thumb wheel switches that will be in the center console. DCCDPro recommends the G-sensor be mounted flat and glued down with a 2-part epoxy. I found a nice spot for the extra length of wire and the sensor under the air bag module and JB welded that sumbitch down!
So turns out I wasn't sent the incorrect steering knuckle adapter...I'm just uneducated. For whatever reason, my GD steering column stem had been pulled out (lengthened) by about an inch. I had no idea these things telescope! (for crash purposes I suppose). Brian from iWire was kind enough to give me a call and work through it with me as he was stumped as well why the knuckle wasn't fitting properly. He had a couple of GD steering columns lying around and took some measurements and that's when we figured out that the column had been pulled out a bit. Sure enough, with a bit of effort, it telescopes right back in. Viola! Knuckle fits perfectly. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do for steering wheel and functional airbag. I have the original GC air bag module and harness which is designed for a single stage detonation air bag. The 06/07 STi utilize dual stage charges in the driver side air bag, which means the main air bag harness from the control module is completely different as well as the roll connector (clockspring) connector for the airbag in the steering wheel. After some research last night, it seems as though the 04/05 STi still uses the single stage charge which actually uses the same connector on the air bag harness. However, the connector from the clockspring to the airbag is slightly different than the stock RS one. Soooo....I need to source a 04/05 STi/WRX clockspring and an airbag from an 04/05 STi (single charge) and I should be set...I think.
Thanks! I got my '04 clockspring/roll connector installed. This will work as I hoped. The original GC airbag harness will plug into the '04 clockspring because it's the single charge connector. I won't be needing the STi steering angle sensor since the DCCDPro doesn't use its inputs for anything, it would just stay disconnected otherwise. Rear of the car is ready for coilovers and brakes (and axles). Once I was able to get the steering column all plugged in I was able to get some power to the car! I was anxious to see what the HIDs looked like...only to find out I have one bad ballast it seems. I swapped it over to the other side and the problem followed. Hopefully they can send me a replacement this week. I was able to finally roll up the passenger side window that's been halfway down since I got the car. The driver side window actuator has one of the wires pulled out from the connector to the body harness so I'll have to do some soldering there. The moonroof works like butter! I got the brake and clutch pedals connected and the rest of the interior wires routed. Once I get my coilovers (finally...hopefully this week) I'll be able to get the rotors and calipers on and then get the brake system bled. I made a failed attempt at putting the '07 STi center console in. Because of the interior update in '05, it's not even close to matching up to the GC hvac/radio bezel. I'm going to give an '04 STi console a try. I know it will require a bit of trimming around the GC dash, but hoping I can make it look half decent.
Looks great!! Why don't you use the GD dash instead of the GC. I know that there are fitment issues where the dash meets the doors...but i've seen it done!
More work lol. I actually prefer the GC dash in the GC, the GD dash just seems out of place IMO. Have to cut holes in the firewall for the heater core and AC, fill original heater core and AC holes, "massage" the trans tunnel for the GD core to fit properly, modify the dash beam, trim the GD dash where it meets the firewall, and after all of that it will still have gaps with the doors open and around the A pillars. The GC door cards won't allow the door to close without smashing them also. Yeah...too much headache! The main reason I want the GD center console is literally for the cup holder!
I feel that! I hate that the RSVX doesn't have a cup holder on the lower console. It is a fair amount of work to do it the "right way". Which you ARE doing on the rest of the car!
Spent a few days this week trying to troubleshoot a couple of DCCD display lights out on my cluster. Initially, I thought there were a couple of bulbs burnt out. The DCCD bulbs are buried in the cluster under the board. The majority of the other bulbs are accessible from the back of the cluster without even cracking it open. After tearing into it, i was able to switch a couple of the DCCD bulbs around to realize all the bulbs were functional. Using the diagram below, I found there were two wires in the incorrect pins on the cluster plug. Green was in pin 4 (should have been 3) and red was in pin 12 (should have been 11). After repinning the cluster, everything seems to be working now. I made iWire aware of the issue and he's going to be updating his documentation - this is a new diagram to his knowledge. I'm just glad it's working! I have a replacement ballast coming from LightWerkz. Evidently there are two versions of the Morimoto XB55 ballasts...somehow I got one of each of the ballasts initially. Each version needs to be run with it's compatible igniter to function properly, so that's why I had one not working. Should get the replacement tomorrow. Today I should receive my 04 STi center console, so I'll work on modifying that to fit tight to the GC dash. Hopefully I can make it look half decent. I finally received my Flatout coilovers after a 4 month wait, but I've decided to go a different route...so those are up for sale if you're interested
A few hours of cutting, fitting, cutting, swearing, fitting and I have the 04 console in. All that work for an extra cup holder! One thing I'll note is that I had to swap the hand brake cable from the 07 over to the 04 handle. The 05-07 parking brake cables (which I have from an 07) coming from from the rear hubs are a bit shorter than the pre-05. The newer cable from the hand brake is about 1/2" longer. It was just enough. I had to adjust the cable all the way out for it to reach, but it'll work! It's definitely far from perfect around the radio/hvac bezel, but I think it turned out pretty decent. One downfall is that I'll have to pull the shifter trim if I need to take the radio bezel out, but they pop off pretty easily anyway.
Motor patiently waiting for Uncle Sam to give me some of my money back so I can order a clutch and then she'll be ready to drop in. Still debating, but leaning toward a South Bend "stage 3" endurance kit...
lol, just giving you ****, man. Build is coming along nicely and you're taking all the setbacks in stride. re: the South Bend "stage 3" endurance kit... that definitely sounds like you're gonna get a sack of viagra and a copy of the kama sutra.
Any sources? I had their stage 2 street in my 07 STi and loved it, aside from the fact that the TOB was a noisy sumbitch. Could have been a bad one or install error too :/ The other one I was leaning toward was the ACT HD, 6 puck. I'd prefer not to go with the 6 puck due to the harsher engagement (this will likely be 80% driven on the street) and the HD pressure plate is super heavy (had one in my old bugeye). Edit: I have read some issues a while back with their stage 2 endurance OFE disc. It's one side ceramic and one side kevlar and the kevlar side will essentially weld itself to the flywheel when slipped too much/too much heat is built up. I'm fairly certain they've remedied that issue by changing their clutch discs to ceramic on both sides. Perhaps I should research further before pulling the trigger. Their stage 3 "drag" (a step up from the endurance line) is full ceramic, but also a sprung 6 puck design.
nothing first hand, but from what I've been told the quality has gone downhill from back when I had a southbend stage 3 in my audi.
I ended up pulling the trigger on a ClutchMasters FX400 "8 puck" sprung clutch kit. This option seemed like a nice balance between drivability and holding power. I read lots of great reviews of the clutch and it's about $300 cheaper than the South Bend. It should be here this week so the motor will likely be going in this weekend. This will be paired with a new OEM flywheel. Right now the engine bay is a bunch of loose wires until the motor is in. I got the replacement HID ballast installed and the lights are working nicely. I'm second guessing my choice to go with 50w ballasts instead of 35w...these things are bright! I have a new OEM 6mt short throw and linkage coming today. I'm convinced that the shifter stay that came with the car is bent and I was also missing some of the reverse lockout parts, so I ended up just ordering the whole assembly - shifter, stay, linkage/bushings, reverse lockout cable, and dust boot from Subaru. I also ended up selling my Flatout coilovers after waiting 4+ months for them to show up. I'm going to just install stock struts with Tanabe lowering springs for now - budget friendly and will be good enough to at least get the car on the road.
Are you keeping track of monies spent? Curious to see what this "balls deep" build ends up running you! Obviously a lot cheaper than having someone else do the work(and less satisfying too).
Yes, keeping an Excel spreadsheet. I don't like looking at it lately I do have a little stockpile of stock parts/parts I don't need that I'll be selling once it's "finished". Some of the larger stuff I've sold or have for sale currently.
Right on! They say "dun b jelly", but i'm jelly! Lol The only thing that i would have done different it the motor. Other than that, mah dream build my friend!
I can agree, the motor is definitely underwhelming in terms of "built". I'd love to go closed deck and rotated, but I knew the budget would be tight with the rest of the project. I think I'll be happy with ~450 wheel...for now
I would have definitely gone 3.3L. Stock would have been good enough until the money came for the twin snails or Supercharger.
Every time that i drive the RSVX, the instant torque makes me smile ear to ear. I love turbos, but i love me some NA action too! Instant powah! Anyways...carry on.
Word. The chassis is definitely not my cup of tea but just seeing the build process/progress, the skills you have, and of course the means to do all of it make a guy envious. I'm really excited to see it in person to check out all the little details.
I fought with this thing for hours before I determined it had to be bent somehow. I didn't have another one to compare it to and the bend wasn't so obvious when not laying next to a new one. The old shifter linkage has a Kartboy short shifter and Kartboy shifter stay bushing. I swapped the KB shifter stay bushing to the new assembly (the new stock bushing was like jello). I also installed a KB rear shifter stay bushing while I was in there. I might swap the KB short shifter in eventually. It's about an 1" shorter than the OEM short throw, but will probably just call it good for now. Yay
I had a FX400 6 puck sprung clutch in my 08 STI. The pedal feel was great...same effort as stock. The engagement was quick and grabby. Slightly annoying on the street, but not too bad once you get used to it.
Yeah, most of the threads I read gave the FX400 6 puck rave reviews. I'm hopeful the full face/8 puck will be a little more forgiving on the street than the 6 puck, but will still have the same holding power.
Either tonight or sometime this weekend the motor will be going in. Flywheel and clutch installed. The CM clutch looks pretty nice. I'm pretty pumped that they even include a Subaru OEM release bearing with the kit, PN 30502AA130 FX400 "8 puck" disc Soon...
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/polish-angel-engine.html#.WKct5FUrKUk http://www.autopia-carcare.com/303-30340.html# engine bay would be painted white if it was my car
Works well. Isn't greasy. Been using it on engine bay plastics/rubber and interiors of all my cars for the last 12 or so years... but I also scotch guard my carpets every Spring so...
Yeah it's water based with no petroleum solvents or silicone oils... depending on the surface there are probably better options tho... like I don't use it on wheels/exterior paint but I use it on painted interior plastics, door jambs, firewall, etc...