Nice, yeah I was thinking more for like engine bay/firewall paint usage. Thanks for the recommendation, I'll give it a try!
Motor is finally in This motor probably went in smoother than any other I've done, which isn't many, but especially considering going at it solo. I extended the alternator wiring so that I could tuck the wire under the intake manifold instead across the top of everything. I had to change the alternator plug on the harness anyway so extending the connector wires and the power wire wasn't a whole lot more work. My RS harness utilizes a 2 prong connector for the RS alternator, but I'm using a GD alternator which uses a 3 prong connector. Even though it's a 3 prong connector, it only uses 2 wires so changing the connector over was pretty straight forward. Wire loomed everything that didn't already have it. Still some wiring to route/figure out. I'll also have to extend the power wire to the starter, but I don't have a starter quite yet... Lots more to do now that everything is pretty much where it should be. I was waiting on a lower center dash piece before going any further inside the car, but that came in this week too so I can go to town in interior now. I went to put the driveshaft in and found it's got a pretty gnarly dent in it. I'll be on the hunt for a used replacement I guess. This is the only thing left to do under the car besides throwing the rear driveshafts and struts in. And swaybars. Probably other stuff. Also started mockup on the intake
Epic build just love the 2 door so unique Light weight the perfect weapon, nice 22b boby kit will look amazing Looking forward to see end result
Over the last couple days I bled my clutch (feels great, close to stock feel), installed struts, rear driveshafts, and routed more wiring in the engine bay. I extended the wires going to the master cylinder sensor so I could route them neatly. Looks like I'll have to extend the ground wire going to the starter also. I'll need to move and modify the bracket that holds the main engine harness plug to the passenger side strut tower so that I can mount my EBCS to that bracket as well. Once I got the rear suspension all bolted up I was curious how the car will sit so bolted a wheel on to take a look. I'm liking it. And Subie photo bombing and cheezin' for the camara Still on the hunt for a new front half driveshaft. The wheels need to come back off to bleed brakes, but still need to buy new pads first. Radiator is on the way, will need to figure out what fans to get. Also, where I mounted my power steering reservoir, the -10 AN hose is too short...so will need to order a longer one or move the reservoir...leaning toward just buying more hose. Need to decide if/how I want to hardwire my fuel pump before I can finish up the interior. 'Bout it for now.
It's probably going to ride like a lumber wagon (stock struts and Tanabe lowering springs), but I'll likely upgrade later. Just wanting to get it going down the road first.
HVAC, radio and gauges wired. Driver seat is just half bolted in because I was sick of kneeling on the floor. Both rear door cards and rear seat backrest are in (not pictured). I still need to make up my mind on hardwiring fuel pump before I can finish up interior. (I won't be using those 2.5rs floormats) I was able to hang the driver side front fender. Test fitting bumper and corner light. Fog lights aren't working...I think I'm missing a relay or something. I need to research further. Radiator and FMIC are on the way. I'll need to fit the FMIC piping and intake before I can button up the passenger side front fender. The need-to-buy list is getting much shorter...
It does need a little body work so a color change isn't out of the question. If it's not black I've always had a thing for SGM.
Friday night I fitted my IC core and piping. The kit is Hybrid Power HDi GT2 and is GC8 specific fitment. I read many good reviews of the CXRacing kit (eBay special) even though they do typically need some modifying to the piping to get everything to fit properly. I ended up going with the HDi kit anyway...I'm glad I did. I didn't have to modify one pipe to get it to fit. I could cut the cold side pipe down an inch near the timing cover to get it to sit a bit lower, but I think I'll leave as. It of course took a little cutting and grinding to the radiator support, but nothing serious. Everything was even packed very well and better than I expected. The Dom 3.0 is a little too chubby and the outlet is pointing right toward the throttle body connector. I realized this when I put the turbo on, but I was hoping I could still get a coupler on it and not have it be an issue. There was just too much interference. If only the throttle body electronics could be on top... Rotated the TB 90* and rerouted a couple of wires. I deleted the coolant going through the TB while I was at it. This really cleaned things up back there. The coolant line that goes from the crossover pipe to feed the TB reaches perfectly to the return nipple on the coolant crossover pipe, bypassing the TB altogether. I just put a vacuum cap on the coolant nipples on the TB to keep debris out. I wasn't a huge fan of the polished piping so I powder coated the piping wrinkle black and also coated my intake wrinkle red while I was at it to match the IM. I still need to get a IAT bung and more than likely a BOV flange welded to the cold side piping before I can coat it...also not looking forward to trimming my bumper :/ I got my main engine harness and EBCS sharing a cut down version of the original main harness bracket from the '07 donor. Wastegate and down pipe are installed and EBCS is plumbed with vac lines. I routed the return fuel line from the FPR to the factory hard line. I'm waiting on my fuel filter to show up before routing the feed line. Still need to get slim fans for the radiator and find some upper and lower rad hoses that will work. Replacement driveshaft should be here this week. Still need an AOS, crank pulley and some other misc, but getting close.
Weekend update: Driveshaft is in and cat back is installed. Last thing remaining under the car is swaybars and setting a "base" front alignment until I can get it to a shop. Using the Q300 catback that I kept from my '07. It sits a bit too tight to the bumper so I'll have to get some longer hangers for the rearmost mounts. Fuelab filter mounted perfectly to the pitch stop mount. I'm still waiting on a couple of fittings before I can finish routing fuel lines. I'm using compression fittings to go from the braided line to the car's stock hard lines Began cutting the front bumper cover for FMIC clearance. Nerve wracking experience cutting up a perfectly good bumper...no turning back after the first cuts. Close to being finished with the bumper cover, but still needs some minor trimming. Test fitting with my v5/6 grill IAG AOS installed. Finding a good mount for it was the biggest challenge. I ended up sharing the bolt that is holding the proportioning valve. Right now I have the AOS at the highest setting...I'm hoping the hood will clear it! If I go too much lower with the mount, I'm afraid the drain line will be running uphill. I took my charge pipe to Sherburne Performance Technologies in Mankato to have my IAT bung and BOV flange welded on. Once I had it home, I blasted it and got it coated
Yeah I'm pretty bummed I won't make it. Literally the only weekend I have plans all summer Maybe I'll make it to a different meet like the Grimmspeed one er somethin'
On the plus side. A GC won last year and you not coming this year will leave hope for someone else to win the "People's Choice" award. Last years winner...
I love the engine bat shot, but something inside of me is screaming for you to change the couplers to black! Looks great though, keep it up.
Yeah the FMIC kit came with blue ones I'll definitely be swapping them out for black ones eventually.
Nothing real exciting this past week...I wired my IAT sensor and buttoned up the fuel line plumbing. I need one hose clamp to go from the tank to the hard line before I can throw some gas in it and prime/check for leaks. Those hard line to AN compression fittings are pretty slick, I'm just hoping they don't leak. After much debate (you may have seen my other thread), I decided to just hard wire the fuel pump. I was kicking around the idea of going with an aftermarket fuel pump controller that would allow the pump to vary duty cycle instead of running 100% at all times, but it seemed quite common to just hardwire it and have no issues running the pump at 100% for long periods of time. 10ga fused wire from battery+ to relay 10ga wire from relay to pump (spliced in pre molex connector) 10ga chassis ground to pump (spliced in pre molex connector) 16ga chassis ground to relay 14ga switched 12v (originally sent power to the stock FPC) now triggers the relay Pump runs 100% with key switched to ON. I found a video on Youtube yesterday where a guy was using a relay that would sense RPM so if you were to get in a wreck or something, the pump would kill if you engine kills. Upon key switched on, the pump will do a 3 sec prime (just like stock), and then will stay off until it senses RPM. Seemed pretty neat. Might look into swapping out my relay for one of those if I can figure out how I'd have to wire it. I drilled a couple of small holes and ran the fuel pump positive and negative wires through a grommet, then spliced them into the stock wiring before the connector. There's only maybe 8" of 14ga wire between the connector and the pump, so there shouldn't really be any impact to voltage on such a short wire. Wires tucked nicely away, behind the rear seat. Found a nice home for the fuel pump relay behind the glovebox Interior is about 90%. I still need to get seat and seat belts in and some other minor wiring Power steering is finally ready for fluid. I was waiting on a new/longer 10AN pump feed hose. I still need upper and lower rad hoses, slim fans for radiator, upper coolant expansion tank, misc fluids before I can fire it for the first time. I also have a Killer B oil fill relocation tube on the way to allow me to adjust my IC piping like I need to. The transition of the charge pipe going to the throttle body is a bit off because the stock fill tube is stopping the piping from going where it needs to go. The relocated tube should alleviate that issue and will probably allow me to cut the piping down a few inches so it sits closer to the motor as well.
Wow, I wish I had the time to put this kind of detail into my car... it's always after hours and slapped together... nice build you have going!
Since I have the oil fill relocation tube coming, I figured I may as well get the charge pipe to fit a bit better. I cut 2.5" off one pipe right in front of the timing cover. It's sitting much tighter to the intake manifold and aligns with with the throttle body perfectly now. I used a ghetto bead of JB weld on the tubing that I cut (I don't have a bead roller), but it will serve its purpose and keep the coupler in place. BEFORE AFTER It's subtle, but the piping is sitting much happier now. You can really see how much tighter to the motor it is in the second picture when looking at the fuse box. I also found a nice spot for my test mode switch...no more standing on my head to connect those green bastard connectors under the dash!
Got a couple of small things done last night. Killer B fill tube This is perfect, allowing my IC piping to sit right where the OEM fill tube used to be Moroso coolant expansion tank. Super nice piece, the welds are beautiful. But it's too shiny... Mounted and plumbed Now I need to figure something out for a coolant overflow tank. I do have plenty of room where the ABS used to sit.
Stealthy and convenient! I always hated doing that too, and since I run an Accessport with pump and e85 tunes that I switch between every so often it was getting to be quite an annoyance. I mounted mine out in the open but this is much cleaner. I'd just be careful what you store in that console, wouldn't want to hit the brakes and have something slide forward and hit the switch.
Yeah, I won't normally have much in that cubby, maybe my Accessport when it's not in use. I felt it was a safer place for the switch as opposed to having it out in the open.
Yeah you're probably right. I've got mine in the switch blanks over on the left side of the dash (partly because it bothers me having those blanks there) and I'm sure there's a chance I'll bump them with my knee or something at some point. You've got a super clean build going so far, can't wait to see it finished.
Does the fill tube really say that on the side? Just the font makes it look like it's photoshopped over the picture of it.
Another fairly quiet weekend for ole' Lola. I got the front steering and suspension dialed in as best I could. It will be road worthy enough while breaking in the engine. I was curious what ride height was going to be like in the front. The tire is bottoming out on the inner fender liner. I'm pretty sure it's because I don't have a sway bar in the front yet. I started looking at the sway bars in my pile o' parts...I have a pair of stock front and rear STi (20mm I believe) bars and what I found to be a set of front and rear Hotchkis 25mm bars. Aside from them being a little rough looking, the Hotchkis bars are pretty beefy. The bushings will need replacing and I don't have front or rear mounts. I'm checking with Hotchkis to see if I can just get the bushings, mounts and brackets that would normally come in the set. I'll need to find some end links eventually. Final trimming of the front bumper finished and the bumper is mounted. I need to source some fog light covers I wired up my rear speakers. Also fixed my driver side window regulator. I took all of the bolts out holding the regulator in and as I was pulling it out a felt a lot of tension release. I don't know how, but whoever put that regulator in had the wiring wrapped up in the window track so as the window would go down, it would just yank on those wires and bind everything up. I few small adjustments to the track and now it goes up and down without issue. Break-in oil, gear oil, power steering fluid should all be here tomorrow. I need to pull the trigger on some slim fans for the radiator. Still need to order brake pads before I can bleed brakes too. I'm hoping to fire the engine for the first time next weekend, but I might have to wait another week to get fans.
No photo bomb...I try to corral him before taking pictures lol. There's a good chance you can see his reflection in the car in every photo though!
I thought it might because I have the car off the ground on 4 jack stands and I just jacked the one corner up. I'd think a sway bar would help "fight" the strut/coil from depressing so much. I guess I won't know for sure till I get the sways on and get the car on the ground.
Stock GD STi struts with Tanabe lowering springs. I was just shocked how much lower in the front it was in comparison to the rear (using the same jack-under-tire-until-car-starts-lifting-off-jack-stands method)
It would limit the travel with weight on just one side like that, but on flat ground the sway bar shouldn't be loaded at all. Depending on where your jack stands are, that method might be putting more weight on the spring than there would be on flat ground....but it should be pretty accurate.
