2.2 turbo swap completed

Discussion in 'Photo & Video Gallery' started by errorcode3, Mar 24, 2010.

  1. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    Finally got it all squared away, only took about 3 days total. Spent more time running around getting the stupid misc parts that i needed. But all and all wasn't to terribly bad. The intercooler needs to be modified to fit, i tried one from a 02, way too tight, finally went with a 07 style. Still needed to trim about 1/4"+ off the end of the intercooler to get it to fit.

    oh and the car started life as a 95 2.2 awd auto, then swapped to a 5spd awd, now its a 5spd turbo'd 2.2.
    (and i know this isn't a WTB thread but i am looking for a wrx scoop)

    Quick parts list just in case someone else decides to do this too.

    custom UP - so i could use my stock headers (thanks a TON dynapar)
    05 turbo back exhaust - about 1 1/2" too long took a floor jack and some muscle to fit it in
    tdo4 - not sure what year but 02 -04 i think
    tons of hose clamps
    2 3/4" and 1/2" and 3/4" hose - get more than you think you'll need.. except the 2 3/4" thats just to fit over the throttle body and TMIC
    1/2" and 3/4" - T fittings get more than you think you'll need..
    07 TMIC or 02 TMIC - Make sure you get the metal inlets on them and the y pipe.
    tapped oil pan - (again thanks a million dynapar)
    if you run the tdo4 you will need to find a 90* hoses to run from the intake side to the maf
    and for the air intake, i just used the stock one, cut it in half where the breather hoses come into it, and flipped it around and got one of those adapters to mount a cone filter on it.

    also if you run a stock turbo back exhaust, you will need to get a o2 bung put in otherwise the car will run like crap.

    and all and all i don't think i spent more than 400 bucks, some was wasted on things that i "thought" would fit, but didn't.

    first ram air setup to test, should be capable of at least 1000 hp
    [​IMG]

    1000 hp was a little much, so i changed my mind to this
    [​IMG]

    showing how tight the fitting is for the turbo/lines/wires (and MAKE SURE anything that may melt is pulled away from the dp my o2 wire housing melted)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    what little space the TMIC has to fit into
    [​IMG]

    how tight the exhaust really is
    [​IMG]

    pictures of the finished product
    [​IMG]

    and a quick little video, don't mind the horn its pretty hard to shift, steer, use the clutch, and use a video camera. (safety first :biggrin:) not a full wide open pull but about 1/2 maybe a little more.

    and yeah i know the CE light is on, it comes and goes as it pleases since it still thinks its an auto.
     
  2. PaulasaurusREX
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    PaulasaurusREX Well-Known Member

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    Sweetness. Glad to see its up and running. Good work! I think "tight" is an under statement on the exhaust.

    '07 intercooler :biggrin:
     
  3. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    thanks for the correction, ill update that..
    and yeah that was the biggest pita, i failed to mention i had to cut away some metal and bend the crap out if it to make it fit back there. but a floor jack solved that problem..
     
  4. Dynapar
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    Dynapar Well-Known Member

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    Nice! I am glad to see that it is up and running. I am guessing that this was quite the learning experience, I know it was for me the first time I did it. Just a couple things, make sure your oil return line is safely away from the exhaust manifold. It is kind of close running a UEL header not too sure on the stock one. Also it would be a good idea to occasionally check that TLeg 90* intake piece for cracks, not a huge issue but that piece of rubber is over 15yrs old now.

    The exhaust is a tight fit because the uppipe mounts the turbo about 1.5" back towards the firewall. This is the same reason it is a nightmare to get the DP in and out. However if the turbo was located exactly in the stock position you would not be able to get the intake pieces on.

    How does it feel power wise?
     
  5. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    night and day, it throws me back into the seat (not like sports car) but i can feel it give me a shove backwards.
    and that oil return i wrapped it with a bunch of heat resistant stuff so i hope that keeps it from melting. and that 90* pipe i cut all the inlets off of it, jb welded and put rtv sealant over the jb weld then metal taped it, then duct taped that.. so there "shouldn't" be any issues with cracks.
     
  6. Dynapar
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    Dynapar Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good. Are you still planning on heading up to MAP for the dyno day?
     
  7. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    unless something blows up, yeah i should be going, just to see what i get out of it. since i haven't seen the boost gauge crack 5 psi yet so i'm feeling safe (then again i'm being pretty easy on it)
    and i have to get that needle to stop fluttering around, i'm just to lazy to go re-run the small line i have for the boost gauge.

    edit: and can you see in the video about what i'm talking about with the flutter? it moves pretty damn fast
     
  8. AWDimprezaL
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    AWDimprezaL has more posts than you

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    Congrats on the turbo, yours will last a long time like mine, i'm sure. Mine has been boosted for a hair over 4 years i think now. Its been through 2 turbos though, untill I went big (60-trim) and havent looked back.
     
  9. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    we'll see since it already has over 200k..and i'm already on my 2nd turbo, first one puked it's coolant out.
     
  10. Dynapar
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    Dynapar Well-Known Member

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    yeah you should get that fixed. If they do boost logging on the dyno it may mess up the readings.

    Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are black/white yet?

    Also your first turbo lasted like 5 minutes so I wouldnt say that counts.
     
  11. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    lol yeah but now its an extra, since the coolant plug must not have been as tight as it should have been. just jumped to the wrong conclusion instead of just pulling it to check said "damage" i just pulled and replaced. but when you hear water dripping everywhere you freak out..

    and i just replaced that line with a smaller one, so we will see if that fixes the issue, otherwise i have no idea what is causing that.

    and the plugs are a little blackish, but nothing major since they are pretty new, none are white at least. and speaking of that do i need to re-gap my plugs or just run them as is?
     
  12. bubba_crx
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    bubba_crx Well-Known Member

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    looks good, what u using for engine management? looks like you got the trans and everything put in ok...
     
  13. Dynapar
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    Dynapar Well-Known Member

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    You should be fine running them at the stock gap.
     
  14. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    nothing, just running the stock ecu for the time being
     
  15. PimPreza_WRX
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    PimPreza_WRX Well-Known Member

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    Looking and sounding pretty nice man. I need to see this in person one of these days.
     
  16. errorcode3
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    errorcode3 Member

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    i know, i wish i would have had up and running when i picked up the turbo from you..but it seems everything i've gotten from you is the reason why my car isn't running..go figure..
    just need to get my idle issue fixed, slap my BOV on the car, fix my cv boot (UP melted it) and get a new boost gauge, since when i tap it, it drops psi..cheap piece of...