Anyone a fender rolling expert?

I'm interested in getting my fenders rolled. There's beer and pizza in it for you. Or whatever you charge. Anyone? Anyone?

 

I roll fenders, even own a fender roller, I actually just rolled a miata out to fit some beautiful deep dish tonight. But i'm in moorhead.

 

call hypertek and ask for max

http://hyper-tek.com/index.html

 

it'd be worth the trip. my alternative is going it myself...

 

how about more than just rolling...actually flaring fenders out more? methodless?

 

pulling starts to get risky - on some fenders that can lead to rippling, my STi seemed to have fairly hard fenders that I don't think would have pulled very well

 

Fender "flaring" is easy or riduculously hard. If you don't care about paint, or are going to get repainted, you can flare like mad, then sand. Also flaring tends to require a lot of heat to get a smooth finish with out sanding. If you are worried about paint, then it takes time. Lots of time.

Also when you're flaring you're running the risk of buckling. Especially in the rear quarters. You need enough heat that you can actually stretch the metal otherwise you get "waves" in you panel or buckling can start.

So short answer: yes I can flare, but I'm no bodyshop guy, so I couldn't garauntee your paint or your panels. If you can weld, widebody would be easier.

 

i ask because i'm supposed to have a fendor roller thing on the way, i've already paid to rent it. feel like coming to play on the L with it? the car has rust so i'm not to worried about stuff....i guess i wasnt to worried about anything on the wrx either lol

 

I think all I need is the rear fenders. I'm going to be sitting almost even w/ the tire when I install the cobb springs.

 

I don't think I could make it down this weekend, sorry, buts it's my wifes graduation from college. For the L, If you don't care too much about looks use A LOT of heat, like just short of bubbling the paint, and try to go steadily along with the roller.

Few quick tips: Remove the fender liner. Seems obvious but many people try to roll with it in their. Use tin shears and cut all the tabs for the fender liner off the lip on the actual fender. Start with the 4 inches or so directly above (12 oclock postion) the hub. roll the lip back their, then work down both sides. The top, middle 5-6 inches is the most common rubbing spot when you dump or get crazy with offsets. Make sure you find at least 2-3 measuring points and wax pencil them on to the fender to keep the sides even. Also, quit while you're ahead (meaning keep checking the clearance with the tire everytime you think you've made some progress).

My #1 rule: If you're looking for 3+ inches, go to a body shop, or expect buckling and wavy results.

I'll post some pictures or a DIY someday when I'm ambisious.

-colin

 

colin....no worries about this weekend, i really didnt mean this weekend anyways, just sometime.

 

Thanks for the advice. My dad owns a body shop, so I'll see what he can do. He's an oldschool - no replacement for displacement - kinda fella. If I get good results from him I'll be sure to let everyone know.

running 17x7.5 53+ on a wagon. Works great as is but I'm looking to drop 2" in the front and 1.5" in the back. Should be interesting.

 

man if your dad owns a body shop, go find some dodge dual pickup flares at a junk yard, cut them down and weld them on. thats what I plan to do when I have the money to switch over to GD rear end.

 

ha. wide body. I think all I'll need is about an inch at most.

 

Well that'd be great. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 

this thread reminded me of a thread i found on nasioc...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1230805&highlight=widebody

project widebody bugeye

 

Yeah, someday I'll be wide. Wide and ugly. But pretty has never been my thing.