brake noise problem

Discussion in 'Modifications And Maintenance' started by 99obw30aniv, Jul 24, 2007.

  1. 99obw30aniv
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    99obw30aniv New Member

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    I just replaced my brake pads on all four corners of my 99 OBW Limited a few weeks ago. I used Satisfied brand ceramic pads, now after a longer drive and/or warmer temps I get a bad squeel when going straight or very slight right curve. The noise goes away when turning left (or just slightly curving left), when making a more dramatic right curve, and also goes away when braking. Any ideas what could cause this?
     
  2. phi11
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    phi11 Well-Known Member

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    where the rotors machined?
    did ya greese the pins?
     
  3. kickin_81
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    kickin_81 Well-Known Member

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    When I installed some brake pads on my FXT, they'd squeel for a bit as the wheel made 1 full rotation until I applied the brakes and the sound went away. You may just need the brakes to get past the break-in period (assuming you properly broke the pads in).

    In all, give it some time and see if the sound goes away.
     
  4. TSTRBOY2004
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    TSTRBOY2004 Well-Known Member

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    sticking slides???
     
  5. AWDimprezaL
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    AWDimprezaL has more posts than you

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    word, or a siezed caliper
     
  6. gran0393
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    gran0393 Well-Known Member

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    all of which can be fixed with WD-40
     
  7. 02blubru
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    02blubru Well-Known Member

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    oh what do you know, mine does the same thing... Just give you crap man..
     
  8. TSTRBOY2004
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    TSTRBOY2004 Well-Known Member

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    actually you drive the crap that squeeks... ha hah a... mine doesnt...
     
  9. 99obw30aniv
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    99obw30aniv New Member

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    I believe that the problem is just the backing plate needing a little tweak (rubbing after it gets a little warm and then warps). I moved it a bit last night, so I should know soon if that fixed the problem.

    To answer some of the questions though:

    The caliper is defivitely not seized. I did lube the pin, and it does slide nicely.

    I know you should turn the rotors, but I usually don't, unles they are noticably warped or really rough. I usually end up doing my work well after any machine shops (and parts stores, too) are closed, and I don't always have time to drop things off and pick them up one or two days later. So, I probably end up replacing pads more often than some people do.
     
  10. 99obw30aniv
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    99obw30aniv New Member

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    In case this helps anyone else...

    The problem was not the backing plate. I took the brakes out again and noticed that the pad on the outside was tight in the bracket. It didn't slip in nice and easy. I think it was dragging a little bit after the brakes were released, and would eventually make noise (and get pretty hot). A very small amount of filing on the metal backing plate of the pad fixed it up nicely.
     
  11. outbackdan
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    outbackdan Guest

    I had the same problem when I replaced my rear pads and turned the rotors. Had the shop look at them when I bought new tires and they said MN driving corrodes the brackets and that a little filing would do the trick. Sure enough, after some filing at the contact points to the brackets and some fine sandpaper to the (brass?) inserts the problem went away. However driving a few thousand miles with this drag has worn on my transmission and/or diff. I think. I had a reputable shop change the tranny fluid but after finding out about uncle scotty's cocktail, I am realizing I maybe should have done it myself. Would anyone say it's a bad idea to change the diff. fluid if its still feeling sluggish after oil and tranny fluid change as well as fixing the brakes?