Ok, yes laugh some. I'm the guy who just broke the bolt extractor in the broken bolt. Back to my problem now. Obviously It's possible to drill out the bolt extractor (with much patience so I have heard). That seems like my best course of action. I cannot weld a nut to the bolt as it is too far recessed. Any other ideas? Can anyone Help me potentially sometime...? Places like Midas/Precsion tune Auto Car/Valvoline obviously won't be able to help me, but is there a high class machine shop that could extract it for me? For reference, the brackets that the sway bars go through (not the endlinks the black bracket and bushing), the large black bracket, the bolt that was holding it to the frame snapped. Removing what the bolt is attached to is not an option, as it is the frame!
PB Blast a couple hours before you work on any undercarriage bolts, and maybe a little light "hammering action" with an impact driver to help break things loose - this theory is generally only useful for something that looks suspicious...but I crawl under a lot of old Subaru's and generally use this practice on older cars that have areas corrosion or build up... Tip for next time I guess. As for your issue; I just had to extract an engine case bolt where the EZ out broke off (I am assuming you were you using an EZ out, but you didn't specify). EZ out's are made from hardened steel, so when they break it's a PITA. That being said, all the ones that have broken on me in my time as a wrencher are the cheaper ones from Harbor Freight or even Northern Tool (always remember that you only pay for quality once - I learned that the hard way on too many occasions). I digress. Go to Menards or fleet farm and buy a higher quality set of EZ out's (I have had success with Vermont American - haven't broken one of those yet...). Also buy corresponding sized cobalt drill bits to match the ones that come in the kit - this whole set up should be less than $30. You need the cobalt bits because the ones that come in the set are intended for something lower on the Mohs scale so the EZ out will be too tough for those; cobalt will eat up a cheaper easy out no problem (you could also buy a carbide bit which will eat almost anything, but spendy). Now go home and drill out the old extractor and then use that same cobalt bit to drill nice and deep into the bolt you need to get out - the extractors usually break at the tip because you haven't gone far enough into the bolt you need out. Once you are drilled in far enough to get about 1/4 to 1/3 of the extractor into the bolt then get one of your nice new EZ outs and hammer it in nice and straight...then extract very slowly, don't over torque it or you may break it again...if so repeat. Sometimes a little light tapping, PB...and maybe even heat will help, but be very careful with all of these, especially in the engine bay/suspension area. Go slow and spend the cash on the right tools, it will come out eventually with patience...we hope! Sorry for the long write up, but hope that helps!
Thanks for the write-up. That is pretty much what I tried today. Went through 5 cobalt drill bits, and 1 titanium bit. Center punched the bolt/EZ out, but got next to no where with the bits drilling (used a high powered plug in drill, not a cordless drill). Lesson learned about cheap tools I'm now looking at just welding on the bracket (going to put the bracket on, and no reason to swap out for another one). I had to take out the stock forester one to put in the 2004 STi bracket. So is there anyone/any place that could weld on the bracket for me? It appears to be a rather small job for anyone who knows how to weld. Hoping somebody with welding skills can help me out, whether as an individual or as part of a shop.
I'd try a carbide bit then if it was my car; I don;t like welding anything that wasn't originally. Just me, but I don't like permanent adaptations. Good luck if you go the wlelding route. Let me know if I can help otherwise. Sorry that the drilling route hasn't worked so far!!
