I got up and started my car so I could go to the bank. I went inside for about 5-10mins until I notice that I couldn't hear my car's exhaust no more. I ran outside and notice that my car is dead with the corner lights/tail lights on still, I usually leave the corner light switch to on. As I tried to start the car I notice that the temp guage was way up there at boiling point. I know I still have a lot of coolant left. The starter works still, battery still works. I can't turn the corner lights off with my remote. I have to unplug the negative on the battery and when I put the negative back on, the alarm doesn't go beep or the lights flashing. I then tried unpluging the #2 spark plug wire to see if it spark, 1 person so that didn't work out too great. I then tried starting the car, the car starts but then dies right away. Any help would be great. Mods on my 98RS... 107,000 miles Fuji K ported heads stromung dualtip catback NGK G-Power spark plugs .44 gapped Autolite spark plug wires '93 Wagon L coilpack <-----could that be the problem or the car alarm system? My car currently has a IAC problem, Fuji K says it's fine so it should be fine. The front 02 sensor is dead and still waiting for the part to arrive.
sounds like head gaskets...nothing else causes 2.5's to overheat more, but could also be the maf....but that wouldnt cause overheating
I don't know about the HG. I had Fuji replaced that for me. The MAF seems to be working fine after the 4th-5th one(my car doesn't like K & N air filter).
they can blow more then once..expecially if you dont use the correct subaru torque sequence, you could also have a cracked head, it wont show up unless you have the head magnuflux
uh...I'm pretty sure Fuji knew what he was doing. I mean he had all them tools PDF file how to replace headgasket and such. oh well...damn freakin 20[3p598-0345pq347503q9450q4397[23q car started again.
I'd actually look into the IAC problem. Since that's the Idle Air Control, and your car was idleing, there might be something going on there that could cause it to stall. I'm not sure why you had trouble getting it started again though. But keep an eye on your temp and coolant level and check to see if you have any new codes.
Does it still have that idle problem? Disconnect the MAF plug and see if it starts on limp mode. If it starts and stays alive then your MAF is dead again. Your corner lights, check that switch on top of the steering colume. Try starting and giving it gas to see if it'll stay alive. If it does stay on, your IAC no good. Time to shell out $$$ was your coolant resevoir FULL? Because with blown HG the coolant gets pushed out to the resevoir from all that exhaust gas entering the coolant passage. IF a badly blown HG, with the radiator cap off, you can see bubbles coming out and more if you rev the engine. IF NOT HG, potential thermostat. When I did the rod bearings on my Dad's Outback, put everything together, the thermostate wouldn't open. LITTLE BASTARD. My dad drove the car and ran it hard a few runs and then it opened....little sucker...*sigh* made me freak out! HG's where OEM Subaru and was replaced 2(?) years ago. All torque specs and sequence in tightening was followed. The times I went up there teh car runs fine. The times I'm not there the car seems to develope problems....little bastard car! anyway....ya so do the things I suggested.
Well the car is working again. Fuji, you even said that the IAC is not big of a problem! $300 for that ****! Hmmm would junkyards one work? I'm afraid I have to go cheap! school is a bitch for me now >_<. HG seems fine, nothing leaking from there, coolant is still green, I might have to clean the coolant resivor.
Not to hijack but since his car is working, Mine is sort of fixed. The new engine harness and maf allow it to turn on, idle high a couple of times in cold start mode, and then it slowly just reduces rpms until it sits at about 400-500 and will bog up and down before jumping rpms high. It will repeat this for about 20 minutes until finally it bogs really bad trying to jump back up and kills. Its a huge hassle as at stop lights on hills as I have to keep my rpms up with the ebrake on so that I can avoid stalling the car.
Nope, me and martin checked my previous cels and I had one for the purge valve. Got that fixed and installed. the cel is gone. I have borla headers, thats the only aftermarket part on the car performance wise.
Ive got my intake and torque box tightened down right, I believe* I will recheck that when the car comes out of paint on friday. I didnt think a vac leak could cause this bad of an idle though... This isnt anythign to do with electronics, correct?
you'd be suprised how badly the car will run with a vacuum leak. my HVAC vacuum line pulled off a couple weeks ago, and the damn thing sounded like it was running on 2 cyl!
Not following you...My thermostat is reading temp perfectly. The car exibits the same problem at operating temp. When I get the car back I will check for more vaccuum leaks. Seafoaming is a way to find these, correct? My next thought is to go after the o2 sensor. That could be contributing to the problem, correct?
I ONCE unplugged my ECU while batter terminals attached and the ECU freaked out. My IAC sensor wasn't working! It'd choke choke and die. Then I put on one from a diff one, and it'd revv to high. SO I put my stock on back on, then had to keep on giving it gas for it to stay alive. THEN finally it readjusted itself and it was back to normal. bastard little thing....
same problem again. I ordered a 98RS coilpack from a fellow member on rs25.com After I finished installing it the car wouldn't start, it wouldn't spark and the temp guage needle goes all the way to HOT point again... Could there be something else that is wrong?
like WTH!!! current problems I have with my car is a F'ed up IAC and a dead front 02 sensor. Could one of those be the cause of the car not starting?
Okay...I was doing a little research and found that some other guy is having the same problem. Could it possibly be the camshaft sensor/crankshaft sensor that is causing the car to not spark at the right time?
well...like i said...its very hard for you to get parts over there at Sheboygan...just give me the car and i'll give you 5k cash...what it really need is a new owner name dao...lol...just F-ing around...buy a new car... dao
hell no foo! if you want my car that bad. $6500, if not then buy lue's car! hmmmm...no i'm keeping it, i want to do a swap someday hehehe...I'll be so fast so furious It'll be faster than fuji's TwoTwoTee's muahahaha but as of now...I'll look into the crank sensor and cam sensor.
