My 99 RS-T is turning over, not starting though. I thought I had solved the problem with a new MAP sensor but I believe this is not the case. For some reason the starting issue seems to be very inconsistent still. This morning I started the car fine and went to work. I drove somewhere at lunch and when trying to start again to head back to work, I had to turn it over a few more times to get it going, but it started. When I tried to start the engine to leave from work, I could not start it. The engine is turning over but no gurgles or any hint of combustion. About a month ago when I was having some starting issues (the same ones), some local shops verified that there was spark and fuel (and adequate fuel pressure) getting to the cylinders. I have tried starting with and without the MAP sensor plugged in. I have tried starting and holding the throttle fully open. I pulled one of the spark plugs out after turning it over quite a few times and it was a little blackened, but not wet. Does anyone have any other suggestions to try or troublespots to look for loose wires, vacuum hoses, sensors. I have to believe that such an on and off problem is a bad connection somewhere or a failing component. I have Haltech engine management which uses some of the Subaru sensors, some haltech sensors and I know it has a GM MAP sensor. Any suggestions??.. Thanks for any help that you can offer. -Patrick
I just had a thought, perhaps clogged injectors?? I have been running E10 ethanol in there most of the time, it is a mild solvent. How can I check the condition of the injectors? Also, other suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Have you checked your coilpack? If it's just getting weak (they do when they get old) it might not be giving enough spark to start the car. Also are your plug wires on the plugs tight? Check that. If your injectors are clogged get some valvoline syntech injector cleaner and try running it for a tank. Last- check your battery connections. Sounds dumb but I've seen it before with some very experienced people standing around. Where are you? Maybe I could come by and check some things myself.
fuel pump.... I know you said that "they"tested it... but if it happens off and on then they may have missed the off and got the on!!! I say this as we have had a few cars in lately that are hard start to no start and usually winds up being the fuel pump...
The symptoms seem to be a fuel pump going bad, to me. There's also the possibility of dirty fuel filter.
Speedyham: -Is the coilpack basically the distributor, locatated right on top of the intake manifold where all four spark plug wires meet? Do you know how I can inspect it? I am located in Ames, IA...the car is in Nevada, IA (about 10 minutes from Ames), probably far away from where you are, no? Wrxboy and Krees: -I have often thought that it was a fuel delivery issue as well. Although when I turn the key to accessories I can hear the fuel pump running/priming for about 5 seconds and then turns off (this is normal) and it is still sounds like it is running/priming now. Although, just because it is running doesn't mean it is working right? Is the fuel pump in the gas tank? Big ($$$?) job to replace? Thanks, -Patrick
not sure.. think it is.. but if you look either under the rear seat or in the trunk theer should be an access panel you can take o9ut to get to it.. (I think) though it is usually smaller then you need to get the pump out... idiot designers..
The coilpack is the distributor. I have never had the correct equipment to test one, it can be done, the tools are a lot of money though. I usually will swap the suspect part out with a known good part and try it from there. It's usually pretty obvious if that is the problem when you replace it. A new Walboro fuel pump (upgrade) is around $80, swapping it out can be done through the trunk and takes about 20 minutes. Yery easy for just about anyone. Yes the pump is in the fuel tank. It's a really easy swap though. Fuel pump is another good part to suspect, especially since the plugs weren't wet when you checked them.
I never even thought to check the fuel pump for that problem because you could hear that Walbro when you turn the key. But then you said that they checked the fuel pressure and all that. I wonder if they really checked it though. Fuel filter should be fine though, that was replaced last summer, but it is a cheap part to replace just to rule it out. That sucks it didn't end up being the MAP. I wonder if you left it with RS when you take it there if they couldn't replicate the issue. It happened so randomly for me that I couldn't troubleshoot it well. Seems to only happen in warm/hot temps so I also thought it was wires/plugs, but those are also new. I'm almost thinking it's the Haltech wigging out. Plugging in the laptop would show if that's the case. I'd be looking for injector duty cycle and O2 voltage.
Thanks for all the input guys!! There is quite a bredth of knowledge on this board. Well I got it going yesterday!! Here is what happened... I purchased an inline fuel pressure guage, checked the fuel pressure after the filter but before the injectors to see if the pump or filter was a factor. Turning the key to accessories/letting the fuel pump prime for 5 seconds there was b/t 40-50 psi (and no pressure drop, constant, Good right!) When I turned the car over the pressure dropped to around 40psi but was still very constant (pressure was not changing at all) and not losing any pressure. One thing though is, shouldn't the pressure be changing slightly with turning the car over, because you are using some fuel on start up?? Just for fun, I unplugged the MAP sensor to see if the pressure changed and it started quite easily but ran like complete crap (Garrett, as was the same case when I had taken my car to these local shops about a month ago). I turned off the car, plugged the MAP sensor back in, it started like a champ and ran fine. So...it is something with the computer or the MAP sensor I think. I had tried unplugging and starting w/o the MAP a few days ago when I first posted but at that point perhaps the engine was flooded... Still though, I have not yet pin pointed the problem exactly -Patrick
I think it uses both, but certainly the crank sensor is being used because it had to be set up for the Subaru 6-tooth crank trigger that car uses. One sure way to find out would be to boot up the laptop and add those two sensor signals to the engine data display page (if they aren't already) or datalog them for a little while. I would have never guessed either of those sensors would go bad though, and as I said I've only had those same problems in the heat/humidity, but then again only in the past year or two.
