The clutch engagement point is too close to the floor for my wife's taste. (I'm OK with it, but I have longer legs) Is there an adjustment somewhere that I can use to move the engagement point farther from the floor and closer to the driver? __________________ 2005 LGT Limited, RBP
You can adjust the clutch on a hydraulic type clutch, but its a bit of a process. Give seat adjustment a fair shot, in my Forester as an example I can tilt thecseat base down so I have more leg clearance and that helps me a lot. If that doesnt help there are plenty of clutch adjustment descriptions on nasioc or legacygt.com that can help you.
She is short and she's afraid of air bags, having heard stories of injuries to short people from them. Also, she is going in for surgery to her left foot soon. She will be off cars for a while, and then driving the Suburban (every automatic we have ever owned was a Suburban). I have not found the stuff on legacygt.com yet, and a similar thread to this one there has not received any replies. I don't know what "nasioc" is.
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/transmission-awd/103123-adjusting-clutch-pedal.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811155&highlight=clutch+adjustment
I have a wolf clutch kit in my car, I had no clue what it did before I bought it for $25 but all it is is a block of aluminum that bolts to the clutch pedal and basically hits the "stop" on the pedal itself earlier thus causing the pedal not to travel throughout the dead zone which is unnecessary for engagement on my 2003 wrx. Not sure what year yours is but you can do this yourself with a threaded furniture foot from home depot and replace the factory stop and thread is in or out to compensate for unneeded pedal travel
I don't think that really would fix her problem. She needs something more like the pedal extensions for dwarves.
When my linkage broke I took some pictures of how it all goes together. You can see them here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2451989 You can adjust the u-shaped bracket on the threaded rod and move the engagement point. Just make sure you don't move it so much that the clutch isn't fully engaged when the pedal is released. And to really make it worthwhile, you'll probably also want to add in a stop to prevent over-travel. Be warned: It's really uncomfortable trying to get under there to adjust things!
Question: can you rotate the pushrod so you don't have to take the clevis off the arm? I have had other cars which allowed the pushrod to be rotated with no ill effects.
If I have read this right... the clutch and pedal are working normal but the driver is short and wants the pedal(s) closer to the seat? Quick disconnect pedal extensions are the best idea IMHO. http://www.drivemastermobility.com/pedals.htm Todd
OK. As soon as the temp in my garage improves, I will Bleed the clutch system. Loosen the locknut. Rotate the pushrod to lengthen it until the engagement point is moved up sufficiently. Tighten the locknut.
Well, I finally got around to it. With the correct milk cases and piles of old garage pillows, I got my ancient frame into the car and under the dash. The DBW stuff on the throttle pedal is somewhat in the way, but I was able to get an open-end wrench in there and loosen the locknut (jam nut). Rolled it back via fingers until it hit the end of its threads. Then I was able to rotate the pushrod by using the open-end to rotate the nut/pushrod a half a flat at a time. I moved the pushrod as far as practical. Then of course the nut was jammed on the threads so I had to get a small ViceGrip on the pushrod and bread the nut free with the wrench. Fingers to turn the nut into jam position, then tighten with wrench. Got everything out and away from the car and took it for a drive. My 2005 LGT Limited now seems to drive much more normally. I adapted to the clutch right away. Thanks for help all, and especially xluben for confirming that I could rotate the pushrod. Made the job much easier.
