cocktail mix for tranny 2010 grim speed or andrew tech

I was gonna do a tranny mix because its about time to change my fluids. I know most people run stock fluids until there warranty is up. But i feel i drive my car hard and put about 100 miles on a day. Andrewtechs cocktail mix seems like a good choice, i talked to a rep at andrewtech he said to this fluid new and old Subarus. I talked to a guy at grimspeed the Russian kid said they only people with older subarus ran there mix but it should work. There are two diffeent mixtures here jist wondering whod running what and how its working.

 

Ok 2010 Wrx stage 2 tunned, spring doing e85. The andrewtech is redline shockproof 3 qts and 1 qt of mogul 300. The grim speed is the cocktail in question. Im kinda leary on the mix, ive also read some bad reviews on nasioc on uncle scottys mix...

 

if you have no issues with syncro grinding then there is no reason to use anything other then exta-s end of story.

 

Extra S actually fixed a grinding synchro in one of my 5 speeds. It's all I run in my Subaru manual traansmissions now. Uncle scotties mix made my front diff whine I would never use that again.

 

I've used Mobil 1, Uncle Scotty's, and Andrewtech in my 02 5-Spd and now have Extra S in my 6-Spd. Both setups had the ACT Prolite (9lb) flywheel.
From my experiences, Uncle Scotty's was golden for about a day with really smooth shifting and no whine from the front diff on decel (common issue with excessively light flywheels). During that day, I was even able to shift into first while rolling without double-clutching or rev matching. After the honeymoon, however, the transmission began acting exactly like before I changed to the cocktail and stayed that way until I changed the fluid to the Andrewtech cocktail. On Andrewtech, the shifting was smoother, the front diff whine was reduced but not gone, and I was able to shift in first gear while rolling again as long as I double-clutched and/or rev-matched. The Andrewtech was consistent and stayed that way until I changed setups to a 6-spd.

In the 6-spd setup, I used Extra-S straight away and it's worked perfectly fine, though it's a very different transmission from the 5-Spd so I don't really have a way of comparing it. However, I would say that if your transmission is new and not showing any signs of wear, a cocktail wouldn't be necessary or advisable. In my case, the transmission had 120,000 miles on it before I even tried Uncle Scotty's for the first time.

 

I recall reading some threads a couple years back on NASIOC showing some not so hot UOA results from USC. I'd stick with Subaru.

 

use extra-s, I have had it in my 6 speed for thousands of miles and will replace it again with extra s when the time comes.

 

IMHO, mixing fluids of any sort is a bad idea. Some are really not compatible with others, causing issue's with build up, or possible acids. It would be one thing to mix same brands, different weights, to make a mix more appropriate for your driving temps. However, you shouldn't be mixing different brands.

 

I wouldnt mix the fluids. I ran the "cocktail" in my car for a bit, ran fine at first, but degraded quickly and it got worse then with stock fluids. Replaced with stock fluids and is running strong.

 

I'll "me too" this one. I had a grind in the shift from 3rd to 4th when getting on it in my 5 speed. Extra-S change and it went away. Morrie's and the mnsubaru discount made the price very nice.

 

Uncle Scotty (member on NASIOC) doesn't run the cocktail.....


I, too, was a fan at first, until my transmission started making some nasty noises. Switched to straight HypoyC, and it got better. Then switched to extra-s. I run ExtraS in my subaru MTs ever since (well...haven't bothered with the Brat 4-speed....but whatever)

 

It was tested and showed to degrade fast, like 10k miles fast. Two of the best gear oils in my opinion is Motul Gear 300 and Amsoil Severe Gear. Both offer excellent cold weather performance and no one complains, at all, about them. Motul Gear 300 offers the highest viscosity index and lowest pour point of any gear oil. This means it is largely unaffected by cold weather and remains liquid at very cold temps. Unfortunately Extra S is a petroleum based oil which automatically means its cold weather performance is worse than any synthetic counterpart, by a solid 30 to 40 degrees. Now the importance of this varies from person to person. It really only affects very cold weather use and only during initial driving before things heat up. However, this could be a big issue for someone only driving few miles in town. The drive may all be cold driving with little time for things to warm up and thin out. One may see a drastic change in operation and mileage based on oil selection, both gear and engine. In this sense, getting as low a pour point and as low a cold temp viscosity is most ideal. For the engine, this is pretty much Amsoil's 0w30 SSO and for the transmission this is Motul's Gear 300. Runner ups are Mobil 1's 0w30/0w40 (depending on if you want a thin 30 weight or thin 40 weight, i.e. low end of the measurement spectrum) and Amsoil's Severe Gear. If you want your car to act like summer from dead cold while at 0°F, then you want oils that remain relatively thin even at very low temps. The difference between some of these synthetics and traditional petroleum based products is sizable. You really are looking at a 30-40 degree gap in terms of how the oil feels as the temps drop. A synthetic at 0°F acts like a petroleum at 40°F. It can be a big deal in terms of being locked out of gears and forced to double clutch with these trannies, beyond just simple mileage differences.

As far as mixing oils, it's sort of pointless. Most gear oils use only one of a few additive packages developed by big oil companies. The variation between products is not high because no smaller company will spend the R&D to develop their own mix of additives. It just costs way, way, WAY too much money. Many will add gimmicks to make their oil unique, say Redline's moderate use of moly (generally a good thing for high shear resistance and metal "self repair"). Some gimmicks help. Some are actually bad for the car. Much of what you're looking for in the end is just basic things. Living in Minnesota, I am more concerned about pour point and low temp viscosity to ensure easy operation and minimal mileage change during winter. The syncros are also relatively sensitive to viscosity, so if we get a product that's too slippery, shifting does not work well. It's hard to tell what's what, but we can read forums and see which ones work well and don't work well in our transmissions. We then end up sticking to what works well. In this case, people simply do not complain at all about Motul or Amsoil gear oil products just because they work well. The same goes for Extra S and Valvoline, however they are traditional petroleum based products. When there are products that work great, there is no actual reason to start blindly mixing one's own. I really don't think you'll get better than massive corporations throwing billions of dollars at scientists to figure out what's most ideal. I really don't think you'll beat them at their game.