The car is a 95 Legacy LS sedan, 2.2L 4eat with no modifications. The issue is the crank pulley is backing out. The timing belt was done about 3 months ago (not by me) so I am unsure whether it was ever torqued to spec or not. As you can see by the pics, part of the crank bolt is chewed beyond the threads. I also think it is slightly warped at this point. Additionally, you can also see by the other pic the crank pulley itself is somewhat chewed up from it spinning loosely for some time. I threaded the bolt back into the crank and it went in with no issue, seemed just a little "loose", but not excessively so. Key on crank is solid and complete. So... A. Replace pulley B. Replace bolt (loctite?) C. Put a magnetic tip in to the crank threads and see if part of chewed bolt is in there D. What else? What could have caused this? E. Anyone have bolt and crank pulley for this laying around?
If its a car you plan to keep for awhile I'd do both to be safe. I had this happen to me. I replaced timing belt an did not torque the pulley and had it back out on me. Had to replace the pulley, the bolt, and the key.
I'd probably try to replace that pulley, but it'd probably work fine without (use a flapper wheel on a dremel to clean up any burrs). That's a very high-strength bolt, and it's threading into the crank (forged steel...), you're not going to be able to strip it out by hand. Apply loctite, wedge something in the flywheel/flexplate through the torque converter access hole, and crank that bolt down TIGHT. You won't have an issue again.
Replaced crank with used, but undamaged, same for crank bolt. Both bolts have that end to it which must be a part of the machining process. Used some blue loctite, torqued it to 140 ft lbs and let it sit for a day. Flipped the key and it just purrs. Took it around the block...still purring. Thank you for all the helpful advice.
The end of Subaru Crank bolts all look like that. It's from the casting phase. The threads are ok right? And FYI Absolutely no Loktight. Sorenson Automotive, Inc Subaru Specialty Services www.sorensonautomotive.com
Threads were good. Next time I'll skip the Loctite. I did only use the blue and I did not use a lot of it. But now...same car has benn throwing a throttle position sensor code for some time. Crappy gas mileage to go along with it. Where to start with that? How about anyone weighing in on this? Thank you -Rick
How do you replace the key? Crank pulley recently backed out again and is fairly chewed up in the center again. Thank you
New OEM woodruff key (PN: 804505060) is only a couple of bucks. It's kind of press fit into the crank snout. You can gently tap it into place. Crappy part is, you'll have to remove the timing sprocket on the crank since that rides on the woodruff key too.
As Joe said you will need to basically redo the timing belt service. Key is tight fit for sure but can gently be tapped in with a piece of brass and a hammer.
I removed the timing cover and dirt and oil aside, this is what I saw. Additionally, when I threaded the crank pulley bolt in as far as it would go (without the pulley) there was play in the bolt up and down and side to side perhaps as much as 1/16". What now?
ummmm motor swap? If I am seeing the picture correctly it looks like the keyway is also out of time with the keyway in the shaft. Even if it is not that amount of wear on the crank shaft is a ticking time bomb.
Holy ****. It wore out the keyway notch on the crank (and the sprocket)? I'm not even sure how that happens...the woodruff key is much softer material than the crank and presumably, the sprocket as well. I don't think there's any fixing that aside from completely replacing the crank/shortblock. Looks like there must have been some pretty gnarly vibration that wore the threads out inside the crank if it has that much play when threaded all the way in. That's a bummer.
Thank you @joebush44 and @JasonoJordan. I thought it was toast but wanted confirmation before I make the call and wanted to be relatively certain there was no other safe and viable solution short of replacement.
It is a non-interference engine anyway right? Roll the dice! (disassembly would be difficult in the future lol)
Would be difficult, but plausible...could try layering a weld and then shaping it into what would be a woodruff key... edit: still doesn't resolve the sloppy crank pulley bolt though
There is alot of could situations. Not really any would situations haha. That said the 2.2 is bullet proof and normally the chasis go before the motors do in the cars these were employed in so finding a full replacement would not be difficult.
Yuck, that's some carnage. Probably could be patched back together, but that looks like a considerable amount of damage to the crank, which is not really fixable (certainly not without removing it....at which point....). With how cheap 2.2s tend to be, I'd just grab a used one and move on (I just looked at Car-part, Oak leaf's says "running core", but there are several for about $500)
Welding the pulley to the crank would eliminate the need for the bolt altogether. Half ass joking, but if it works and the car was old and "disposable" anyways, I'd give it a shot. What's there to lose? Other than the ability to do the timing again, unless you "customize" the timing cover plastics so you could still get them off. Very redneck, yes. But it'd be a fun story. Edit: just re-read your two posts and realized they're two different thoughts. So we're both on the same page, I believe.
Cody, this car is old and disposable. The body is major hail damaged. I can get $175 for it if I get it to Upull in E. Bethel. Maybe time to cut my losses...
I'm strangely intrigued by this welding option too.... Also, might want to be careful, not sure how much heat the timing belt can take.
We are one step closer having gone to Upull and pulling a unmarred crank and center section of the timing belt cover. Cost so far $2 to get into Upull and $10.41 for the two parts brings our total to $12.41...more to come on this.
Crank pulley successfully welded on...but no spark. Motor cranks strong, but could not get spark at any one of the new plugs which also have new wires. What else could have gotten toasted with this crank pulley carnage? thank you.
I would venture to say it could be more related to when you welded the crank pully on. Did you have the battery on the car disconnected when you did it? What did you use for a ground when you welded it.
I figured that would come up, as that definitely crossed my mind as well. Battery was disconnected and we grounded on the power steering pump (a bracket on the side of it). Not really sure what else a guy could do.
What was the process used to weld? MIG/Stick are fine as long as you aren't grounding to something that feeds directly into a computer, but High Frequency start on a TIG will almost certainly fry any computers attached to it regardless of whether the battery is connected or not. HF TIG will even give computers that are just nearby the welding issues (not permanent ones, but the EMF from HF TIG interferes with their operation)... beside the point here though. Given that it is a crank pulley (old and dirty) and in an awkward location, I'm going to assume it wasn't TIG. How is the crankshaft position sensor? Right location and right symptoms
It's immediately in the area that was being worked on and a bad crankshaft position sensor can cause a no spark condition in most vehicles.
I think if either of us had the funds for a proper TIG setup we wouldn't be trying to cobble this thing together. It was a 110 mig.
Don't diagnose with the parts cannon.....they can be tested. Do you have fuel? Any DTCs? RPM signal while cranking?
Tach doesn't usually register at starter speeds, but a code reader should absolutely show rpms while cranking.