I'm finally going to debadge my car. Looking through here I read that hair driers suck so I'm going to use a heat gun from work. It blows at 650*F which seems a little high for this. Is there a temp where I should be worried about damaging the paint?
Hair dryer should be fine. If you're gonna use the heat gun, just keep it moving so as not to blister the paint. I've done a debadging job by just parking the car out in the sun for a while. You just want to get the adhesive soft. Then use dental floss like a saw to cut through the adhesive.
300ish degrees is the limit for most modern paints. If you have a low setting, use that, keep the gun about a foot and a half away, and keep it moving. If the surface is uncomfortable to the touch then back off... way off. All you're trying to do here is heat up the adhesive behind the plastic badge. Blow drier works fine, just takes longer. Fishing line works well.
Be careful doing it this way. Depending on temperature and the age/condition of the paint, you can pull the paint clean off. I've seen this happen on more than a couple bugeyes and gcs.
Use dental floss to cut the double-sided tape first. Don't just pry on the badge, even after heating. Slide the floss behind the badge and saw through the foam.
I would suggest fishing line. The floss is ok, but fishing line is better. Braided fishing line would work best, but others will work if you have a more than 4lbs test.
Wash the area first to make sure you don't scratch the paint with grit when sawing back and forth with the floss/fish line.
heh, that's what I did. It was one of those 100+ days. Figured the car is hot to the touch already, may as well do something useful with the heat...
This is more of a rebadge question... I can not find any adheasive to put the rear badge back together (not back on the car) without the glue eventually releasing and pulling the new paint with it... Kinda looks like duedo
It was GS cherry... it is dry (like days before reattachment) and months later all the "glues" get brittel and release therefore pulling the paint from the badge.
As for tape, I use 3m vhb (very high bond) They have tons of different types, Metal to metal, plastic to metal, and so on. They also make a uhb (ultra high bond) but that's over kill.
3M VHB double sided adhesive tape. The grey tape with the red strips covering the adhesive. Try to find the 15mil stuff as it'll droop into the cavities on the backs of the lettering, but everywhere it makes contact with the edges and the surface you're applying it to will never budge (well, except for the heat gun/hairdryer/floss trick) I had some JDM "IMPREZA" letters on my car, they will likely NEVER come off of there without some drama.
Have the tape... I bet she didn't look for the skinny stuff... Not sure the thickness but I will look for something around 15mil... Thanks guys In basement over winter all work done there... not cold at all... and... Paint can out gas for days??? not sure what you are getting at here.
Magnetic tape...then you can badge and debadge at will. I used it on both my WRXTi Hybrid logo, and my Subaru badge of ownership tags. Right now they're on the fridge.lol. That's how i roll.
The 25mil will work just fine, I just had good luck with the thinner stuff. The 25mil VHB will likely work just fine for your needs.
After a car is painted, you want the paint to harden before you wax it, The waiting period is two to three WEEKS. the volatile solvent in the paint vaporizes to a gas, known as “off-gassing,” leaving the non-volatile portion of the paint I've seen your post on basement painting, How long Are you letting the paint dry? Just letting it sit over night is not long enough.
1 no automotive paint or parts are being sprayed except the "Clear" portion of the rear badge... I wait at least 1-2 weeks before tring to adhere. Both times, the adhesive I had been using, has eventually gotten brittle and me being the profectionist I am this won't be acceptable... I then get the inner plastic peace popped out again... Which "peels" the paint... I tried the "tape" the was recommended but I think she got a thicker grade then the 15 mil... I am sure that the 15 mil should work for me. Thanks for the responses, Phil & Jason
Oic, you seperated the rear badge from the rear badge backing to paint the inside!? I did mine in blue and used Permatex Ultra Black (16b) silicone adhesive to put it back together. It won't come apart once its back together tho if you ever wanted it to.
Sorry, i fayul at reeeeedang! Mine hasn't come apart since i did it(about 4-5 yrs ago). And no moisture inside either. The 3m tape works good for remounting it to the actual car, or magg-nuttz.
