haha I like the STi vid!!!! What makes you think it wasn't broken in properly? Bearings should NOT wear as there is oil in between the bearing and crankshaft.
Well... have someone who knows how to diagnose it come look at the car. This way there is less damage. Minimize engine run time so you can save more of your engine. I rather not have the shavings start going throughout your oil galleys in the engine. Can damage a lot.
Since this is your first Subaru, are you sure its not the boxer rumble. We have a rumble that flat 4's don't.
Better throw 110 octane at it Saw that coming a mile away. Maybe go to something that isn't water? Rotella T6? Still isn't a very encouraging noise though.
Shell is the favorite brand on this forum. I used to be a Mobil 1 user for years. I eventually got around to reading a bunch on BITOG about Rotella T6 and made the switch.
Mobil 1 is garbage, change it out and see how much its been burning and if there are any metal particles in the oil
like Kent said, M1 turns to water I even made the switch to Rotella T in my Saab Aero when I had that, I always run either RP or Rotella T
Mobil1 is crap, get it out of there, Turbocharged cars use a little oil, and since mobil1 evaporates like water on the stove, its bad news. 4 out of 5 rod bearing failures (that I see quite often here at the dealership) are results of not checking oil level, AND mobil1.
It's not always about the level. Mobil1 has changed from what it used to be. Maybe they only sell the good stuff to Nascar, because the stuff I see, in the cars I see it in, is trash. Run Shell Rotella T, or Castrol Syntec (Edge). They don't burn off, and they don't have a protection rating similar to water.
There isnt a rolleyes emoticon large enough for this douche. I have a stack of uoa data from blackstone showing m1 dino wearing down to a dangerously low tbn after (on avg) 2500 miles of use. M1 synth (both 5w30) wore down after about 1800 miles ime. But what does that matter to you, you already know it all.
Nevermind that everyone who is trying to help you work on SUBARUS for a living. You are right, lets just stop talking about oil. You remind me of Taras when he was going to buy a car from WMC, he wouldnt listen and wouldnt listen, guess what? We were right. Keep running what you want to run, but as it sits now, your engine is toast, piston slap doesnt just happen overnight, or after running low on oil, you have a spun, or flattened rod bearing, I would look into another shortblock, not what clutch you are going to run. Furthermore you have already disrespected half of the engine builders in the community, I doubt you would get any help with the build, so you will likely blow it up again, due to improper assembly. Do yourself and the rest of us a favor, sell your WRX and get an evo, or an SRT4, we have enough douchebags over here already. Nothing is worse than a know-nothing know-it-all with an additude.
Look at the noob-ish thread right below this one... (no offense to Nater) They did it right, you did it wrong. They get answers, you get knock-knock jokes. If you can't see what happened here, that is your loss.
