Please go to http://mnautosport.com/scca-lol/rally/rallyx/events.php to register for the first RallyCross in LoL’s 2008 RX championship. Contact me privately if you have any questions about the event. The eventmaster, Guy, is out of town until Monday. Mark Utecht
I just did the pre-registration thing but it asked me to pay the non-member fee of $55 even though I am an SCCA member (maybe I entered the wrong member # but I doubt it) I didn't pay it because of that - is it ok if I pay when I get there? It still shows me on the entry list
If you were asked to pay the non-member amount, it means you didn't check the checkbox in front of the member ID field. You can register again if you want, and I'll delete the old entry, or you could PayPal the entry fee separately, or you could just pay at the event (but you won't be considered as fully pre-registered unless you pre-pay. I honestly have forgotten the difference, I think that maybe if you aren't pre-paid you aren't able to participate in "fun runs," but I really don't remember.
What kind of DD tires can a guy run? I'm kinda interested but don't have the funds for 3 sets o tires.
Also I'm not sure about the rules, I was planning on putting together something *hush hush* with my tax money but I don't know if that will be legit in the rules or not?
I don't really care how well I do, I just want to have fun lol. If I get really serious about winning I'll put the car farther back to stock
Snow tires. Dirt won't chew them up, and in most cases they will work better than actual rally tires.
Cool, thanks. The form is not what I want it to be at this point. The Paypal was just tacked on in a hurry last night, so it's not as obvious as it should be to select member/non-member. Sorry.
Haha isnt that the truth... Damn! I will sadly be in California. I was so excited to get this season going too... To anyone who hasent done this before go, its a BLAST! Also much easier on your car/tires then you would imagine. Mark - I thought i heard end of last season this year was going to have a mandatory SCCA membership to drive? Is this not true?
I suspect I'm not the Mark you meant, but I am a mark, and I do have the answer. Yes SCCA is requiring all drivers to have a membership. However, SCCA has a temporary membership option (essentially a weekend membership) which is $15. That $15 (and I believe any second temporary $15 membership within 30 days) can be applied towards a full membership.
It should be fun. Too bad I'll be away for the first. Yeah, winter tires do well. WS-50s fair very nice. A lot of people pimp out the Winterforce too. You don't need special tires, but you might want some tread if it ever gets muddy.
I just signed up for the June event for PF. How competitive is PF, and what are your recommendations for rubber? I am going to run some snow tires, but is it better to have a narrow tread patch, or will wider be more beneficial? Also what are your feelings on skid plates for rally-x? Is it worth the extra weight? I am looking for some replacement stock struts, SRT-4 take off springs (raise, and slightly stiffer), rubber, strut bars, and a larger rear sway bar.
Generally PF is undersubscribed. There was only one person who ran enough events in PF last year to be eligible for a year end award. Most people seem to either leave the car alone and qualify for SF or go all-out and run in M2. With the AWD cars, it's different. Seems like most Suby owners do at least a little modding and a lot end up in PA. Most don't go far enough to end up in M4. Skidplates are kind of a nice thing to have as a peace of mind item, but I've been running very aggressively for a couple of years in my 91 Sentra with stock suspension and no skidplate, and no problems. Narrow vs. wide? I don't think there's much time to be gained or lost in between, say a 175/65 and a 185/60 for instance. I wouldn't go crazy wide, something close to stock width would probably be best. Narrower might bite better when conditions get sloppy, but acceleration and braking will suffer. I haven't seen the June site yet, so I can't comment on any specifics to that venue. Your list of mods seems good, might want to take off the front swaybar or maybe just the endlinks (depending on how the Neon is set up, some cars the swaybar will stay out of the way, some won't). Taking off the front swaybar will help the drive wheels stay in good contact with the uneven surface.
Count me in. Will bring the Legacy for some fun and try to catch a certain someone in M4. For some reason it always makes me think of the movie, "Princess Bride". Dread Pirate Roberts- "Are you just fooling with me or what?" "Fezzik"- "I just want you to feel you're doing well. I hate for people to die embarrassed." Amy
Sweet... do I get to see the new wheels? I am currently running the stock ACR spec bars on the car. 22f/16r. The 22r will help rotate the car like a top when mated with the 22f. I think I will try pulling the end links off the front bar, and pick up a spare 20f from a highline model to see how that works out. Axle articulation would improve with the smaller front bar, and help keep the tires in contact with the ground.... I may have to test this all out. articulation benefit vs. anti-roll characteristics As for tires, I was weighing the benifits of a narrower tire for the chance the mud might be out. Allowing the tire to cut through to the harder under pack, rather than floating on top. But then again, I am weighing the advantages between 165/175/185/195 I guess I will just rock what I can find for cheap. Also, I need clarification on the class rules. PF states that modifications to the intake tract are allowed, but does not mention the use of a larger bore TB? I currently have a 62mm TB in the car, but that can easily be swapped back down for one out of an auto car. I don't want my TB to be the loan mod that bumps me into an ass kicking.
Looking at the rules, it's pretty clear that only mods before the throttle are allowed, so your larger throttle body would be illegal in PF. Of course, locally, nobody would notice or care, but technically you wouldn't be PF legal. 90% of RallyCross performance is down to the driver. We've had guys in dead stock Ford Focii put the smack down on everyone. It was all in the driving.
I agree with driving in the dirt and being the driver not the car. I just want to figure out what I have to change to keep my butt in PF, not M2
Google maps link in the above doesn't work. Use this one: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=U...685,-92.924037&spn=0.007299,0.020084&t=h&z=16
Does anyone know if its possible to still show up and register at the event tomorrow? My wife just gave me last-minute permission to go.
nope, online reg is closed. I'm digging around their site trying to find out, but do you know what time it starts tomorrow?
I've been slacking, here is the original annoucement (with the wrong site information removed). Schedule is here. Yes, you can register at the event.
I'm not sure what time I'll leave yet, I gotta look at the map and see how long it'll take. Time to pull my car in the garage and check it over I guess...
I just got in from going over mine. putting my tools in the trunk, checking tire press, fluids, etc. I'll try and be there right around 9am
I think I'm gonna go buy a portable air compressor, after getting 2 flat tires at the audi ice event, I'd kinda like to have one of those in my car.
I have two bolts to break loose or drill out, two holes to retap (or more if those two bolts go badly), a wiring harness to bundle up and then reinstall the battery and get some kind of insulation over the positive terminals. Yes, terminals, it's an Optima Blue, so it has two sets of terminals, one automotive, the other marine type. Then I have to hope the new alternator actually works the way I think it should (158A unit meant for a Nissan Maxima). But the new fenders and headlights look much prettier, even still in primer. I'd swap the hood too, but I don't want to futz with getting the pins drilled and aligned tonight, so the old hood stay one more time.
Better yet, get a 10gal air tank and fill it up before the event (on your way at a gas station works too). 10gallons of air at 100psi will do things (reseat a bead) that a little 12v compressor can't.
does someone usually have one of these on hand? or a larger compressor for re-seating beads? should I toss an extra pair of wheels in the car?
