I wanna build my motor this winter and I don't know what turbo upgrade i want to do. I am looking for a good daily, doesn't need to be perfect. I also want my car to last somewhat of a long time. For numbers i would like to put down about 350-400WHP. On PUMP And the higher the number the better! I will most likely do some forged pistons just to help it lasts longer and of course everthing else i need. FMIC, Fuel Pump, Injectors all that fun stuff. After I figure it out i will probably get intouch with bikerboy scince he has been highly recommended by everyone on here. But let me know what you think andy advice or imput would be great. Thank you.
If you want 400 on pump gas your going to have to get the GT35R. The GT30 will net you 350 on pump. The Green and the 20G will get you around 300-325 on pump. Next time Aaron(discopope) is down at FS check out his setup. He has the UR GT35R with a top mount i/c which looks super HOT. If you plan to drive the car year round ide go TMIC. Just my $.02
When dealing with 350-400whp, you kinda want it to be perfect. The smallest thing can lead to detonation when dealing with that kind of power. I agree that the FP Green and 20G are too small for your goals. The sad thing is, those are the borderline turbos, by that I mean you go any bigger and you get into a hassle with daily driving. I also hope you don't plan on driving a 400whp car in the winter, I can't imagine that being a safe bet... If so, downgrade your goals 50whp and buy a winter beater and a car cover. If I had to choose between the turbos you listed tho, it would be the GT30R.
agreed, 400whp in the wintertime is not safe at all. Too much lag, too much power. You're not going to get a good daily driver with any of these turbos. you need to be honest with yourself: are you buying a turbo so you can have a dyno queen or a power you can actually use? Is this your only car or main car? Everyone else I know with a turbo that large doesn't usually use their car as a daily driver or in the winter much. If you just want a number over 400 then that's not the right reason. you don't seem to race anywhere, so be very realistic about what you really want to get out of the car. If you want to get into track racing, this is throwing good money after bad, the lag will be unacceptable and it will behard to flog without second guessing the build, plus it will jsut be difficult to drive with such a big boost shelf so high up. If you want to drag race it will be a good way to build the car, but there are hard limits to how fast you can get an STi down a quarter mile, and you're going to have to take a lot of guff from guys with american v8's in cars that cost half what you paid.
Thanks guys. Yeah i am looking for more of a drag car. Some of my friends go out to rock falls and race some so i'm kinda looking to go out there with with them. It is my MAIN car but i have another vehicle (Tahoe) if i need to drive it. I would prefferably not drive that one in the winter. Its more of a show vehicle and the paint is about 2 months old. Yeah i want it to work perfectly and i'm not going to short out and not do things i don't really need. I will do everything i have to. SO you think that gt30r is a good choice if driving in the winter. Plus i really don't drive to far or much in my car. To school, work then home! Thanks again for all the info and advice, keep it commin.
Personally I wouldnt go bigger than a 18g in winter. I never drove my 18g through a winter so dont quote me on that... Another big thing with all that power in the winter time, your going to need a stronger clutch, and some of you might know that a stronger clutch isn't even fun when your driving normal in the summer days, I can easily see all 4 wheels spinning when you dont want them to. Go find a $500 honda, theres millions, in St. Paul alone. I have a good question to help this out. What's your budget for the entire project?
I guess what ever it needs to be. I don't really wanna spend 10K but i would like it to be somewhere around 5-6K guess. thats what i was figuring it would be around. Am i way off in that??
Well I spent around 8k for my 18g setup, but that included a new tranny, 18g, intercooler, fp, injectors, flywheel, clutch, dp and up pipe, install and tuning. For 350-400whp, plan on around 10k for a quality build and tuner. I think you'd be pretty happy with a nice 18g or 20g setup, but you won't reach the goal you were shooting for.
Yeah but i wont need a new tranny will i? The stock Sti one can hold quite a bit of power can't it?? Discope did you get the injectors, fuel pump and rails and all that stuff? So you guys are saying that any power around 350 or higher i won't be able to drive in the winter?? That sucks cuz i don't wanna let my car sit! have way to much fun in it now!
So if i go for 350whp on pump it is going to be really hard to drive in the winter?? Or can i manage and just drive really safely. I really really don't want to have to buy a 3rd car! So the gt30r and winter is an absolute no go? Will it be hard on to motor at all?
I think it would be fun in the winter :dunno: you just need to know the limits and get a set of REALLY GOOD winter tires. :biggrin::naughty:
limits as in?? speed, acelleration that kind of stuff or actual motor stuff? I work at a car shop so i will be able to get some really good tire for cost. would that be good enough??
LOL just either turn down the boost or run wg boost levels. Even with the best snow tires, with enough torque you can lost it all in a heart beat.
would you descibe yourself as a very good winter driver? Its all subjective. All I know is the STi I drove at the ice race was a handfull. Its heavy and spins tires really easy. I thought my ~2800lbs 2 liter WRX (which at the time was only running 10psi and about 160whp) was a breeze to drive compared to that.
I have 358whp on a sloboy 20g. 350+ is very possible with a 20g. Not to mention full spool at 3800 with a front mount. Ask Dream where his gt35R is fully spooled
i already had pump and injectors. i went through all last year driving with 300. as long as you keep on top of things and try not to push through too much, it's no problemo. if you do the gt30r, the power delivery will not be so unballanced. there is a big thread on nasioc about the 83 30r vs the 62 35r. not too many people are running the smaller exhausty housing on the 35. so i'm kind of taking another chance on this setup, but i have matt and jorge's blesing's this time. right now, i'm out of vaccume in 3rd gear by 3k. and i hope that after the tune i'll hit full boost at or before 4k... /cross fingers.
OOOO, I wish we coulda raced(pump gas) somewhere before I sold me car. I had 300.3whp in my 2.0 on pump.
Discopope so you are saying that the bigger houseing for the 30r will be a better choice? Its power will be a little less but more controlled?? Thats really what i'm going for! Thanks for that advice. If you can find that thread on nasioc lemme know where it is! I did a little looking but couldn't find it!2 Thanks
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073957&highlight=gt30r+gt35r http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1062316&highlight=gt30r+gt35r http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=937047&highlight=gt30r+gt35r http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=980428&highlight=gt30r+gt35r
wow kick ass discopope! Thanks man! I think i'm set on the 30r now! Thanks guys. I just need to do some calling around and checking out to see exactly what i need and how much its all gonna cost( Plus install) then the build should begin! Any advice on who to see for for cheap! and someone to do a good install? Plus someone to put a somewhat conservative tune on it! Thanks guys
for the turbo kit, daryll at UR is the guy i delt with. amazing service. but their 30r kit is the same $$ as the 35r.. they really like the 35r. the perrin kit is super economical, i almost went with it after that ****ing ride in erik's car got me on this insanity... (curse you!!1!) i would suggest you talk to matt (bikerboy) about install. he does an amazing job, and he's got experience with the perrin and the ur kits. and he is one of maybe 4 people i would trust with my car. the attention to detail is top notch. it made me cringe though, waking up in the middle of the night knowing he probobly was cursing me for all my hackjob wiring. there is a bunch of little **** you are going to need, so if you want i can get together my mod list and post it to give you a good idea of the ammount of parts hording it takes. if you want to get tuned in 6-8 weeks, you need to start jumping now. are you doing pistons w/stock heads and bottem end?
I was thinking about doing the pisons w/stock heads and bottom end. Is that ok?? Yeah if you could get me a list i think i know most of what i need but it would be sweet to have a list from someone who know Exactly what i need. Thanks discopope!
-UR gt35r .63 top mount turbo kit. with rotated upipe (coated/wrapped/coated), tial ewg, dump pipe(coated/wrapped/coated), section welded catless downpipe.(coated/wrapped/coated) cai intake section. http://www.ultimate-racing.com/Products2/STi/STi_GT35R_TurboKit.shtml -UR TMIC with tial BOV (buy them with the kit and daryll will give you a good $$ http://www.ultimate-racing.com/Products2/STi/STi_Intercoolers.shtml -SMC alchahol kit. -PE850 injectors. cleaned/flowed/ballanced by rc engineering. -walbro fuel pump. -bikerboy ninja catchcan setup. heat sheilded can and lines. -custom 3" aluminum MAF housing. maf plate from UR, 3" thinwall aluminum from velocity air. http://www.velocityair.cc/welcome.htm -custom 2.5" silicone throttlebody/intercooler coupling. -Mahle 99.5 forged pistons from god -arp headstuds -oem head gaskets -bov gasket -various chunks and bits of heat sheilding. - rally armor front skid plate. (plastic one would have melted imo..) http://www.rallyarmor.com/rally_skidplates/wrx_sti_skidplates.html -perrin equal length headers, coated/wrapped/coated. needed to add stainless egt bung. hard as hell to find. -oem collector gasket garret uppipe gasket. (does not come with UR kit) -Dtec boost controler and game boy -new copper plugs -knock lite -Acessport -perrin cat back with flex section resonator and 3" flat flange. varis cf bumper guard. (melty melty) -spec clutch (3+i'll dble check) http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pri...tches-Flywheels/Clutches/part/Import_Stage_3+ -oil filter -defi d boost/egt/afr/oil pressure gauges i think thats it, but i'm sure i missing something.
/doh, yeah 99.5's and iirc the spec was a 3+ i'll check. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pri...tches-Flywheels/Clutches/part/Import_Stage_3+ yep 3+
Cool! Same one I got, how do you like it so far? I love mine although I might have to step it up to the 4+ next summer :ugh:
Wow i need all that?? Umm i wouldn't buy the turbo kit from that place! THey want $3600. The guy from inmportimageracing.com has the same thing for like 2500 or 2700. But that is the gerrett 35r. Is that the same as the perrin gt35r?? Plus i was looking at doing the 30r not the 35. plus can't i put on my cobb catback from the perrin kit??
the UR kit, it's cheaper if you send daryll a pm, and the actual cost of the turbo will be similar from vendor to vendor, it's the piping and whatnot that makes one kit better, (more expensive) than another. if you do the 30r i would not suggest you do the UR kit. do the perrin one. the cob catback, if it uses the stock doughnut flange, would fit poorly. the perrin kit is what eric has. very good way to go, they use an older generation of the garret housing but from what folks say, it makes zero diffrence.
i like it. it was a little hard to get used to, but i'm doing beter now. it's either on, or off, so i hope my wife never has to drive it.
dont do a 30r. why do a 30r when you could do a 35r for dam near the samre price? you make more power with the same stuff and spool just as fast if you get the smoll housing like discopope. hears whats going to happen, you get your little 30r ( like that, i said little) and you love it at first and then you get use to it and get your ass handed to you by erik and rich, and aaron and soon me . now you realise that you want more power and you end up buying the 35r any ways but you just wasted $1200 on a 30r. you will make you 350whp on pump and 550whp if you want to turn it up latter on the race gas.
Yea so what! I want a car that i can drive EVERYDAY! not just weekends or summer time. All the time! And for winter from the the guys on here have been telling me is that anything over 400hp is just a little too much for the winter! So there ya have it. Thats why i don't do the 35r. I'm not shooting for huge numbers. P.S everyone I'm checking out prices on my stuff and have order a couple!! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
why cant you drive 400whp every day? bunch of babys to me. just becouse you get full boost by 4800, doesent mean you dont have any boost by 3800.you have a 6 spped. keep your revs up. i road with erik and when he drive you cant feel a tone of lag. discopope even said that without a tune he is out of vacume b in 3rd by 3 grand. what comes after no vacume.... boost. and grate thing about big turbos is you make more power on boost. why cant you drive it in the winter too? cant keep your foot off the gas? if you cant, make a new map for winter with lower boost so you only make 300whp. i just wouldent want to be buy a toped out set up like a 20g or a 30r cuz you will want more. it just happens and then you have to try selling it to get some thing else. not trying to dog on ya ether. just no if you say you go out rcing , you will want more power. pete gotten beat buy most of the people he went up against and now he wants more. and thats with 350whp i think. just how it works
