Anyone have suggestions for garage lighting? I have a two car garage and it could use some more lighting. I primarily do all the work on one side, so lighting one bay more than the other would be fine. I currently have two bare incandescent bulbs in the ceiling. One in the middle of the garage, and one near the back. To supplement that I use a plug in work light with a compact fluorescent bulb (similar to this): I also have a battery powered LED light (similar to this): I am not an electrician, so I am thinking that I could either replace the bubs/fixtures currently installed and/or add lighting via electrical outlets. I don't know if I'd be comfortable adding extra wiring for new fixtures (I wouldn't even know where to begin). I'm not sure if I should get stand mounted work lights, and possibly just hang them around. This could be good because I could move them if necessary. Or if I should just permanently mount lights (maybe florescent bulbs?) in areas that I think will be useful. Thoughts/suggestions?
I have some halogen ceiling lights sitting around. I got them from a friend of mine who used them in his wood shop.
I did mine by going to Menards and buying the cheap flourescent 2 bulb cieling mount lamps and some conduit piping. About 4 fixtures to a stall should do it.
Running the wiring. I mean, you could run it above the drywall in the cieling if you wanted. Would save you money I suppose. I just don't like having exposed wires.
OK, that makes sense. For someone who knows nothing about electrical work, how would I know where to tap in for the wiring, and how would I determine if I am at a save level of current draw for the circuit?
Do you have any ceiling outlets? The lights I have just plug in and are about the same length as the florescent lights. You can have a couple if you want I have 5 total.
I do have one or two that are open (others have garage door openers plugged into them). I'd love to try out some of those lights!
Another noob question: What could make florescent burn out quickly? I have them in my basement and 2 sets last for years and years and the other set dies in like a month after I replace them! Is this a wiring problem? Is there a ballast or something in there that could be bad? I really have no experience with electrical stuff.
Yea, there is usually a ballast in the fixture. I don't know exactly how it all works, but I'd start there. I went to Menards and bought 2 fixtures that hold 2 3' fluorescent bulbs each. I don't remember what I used for bulbs, 4500k I think. It wasn't terribly expensive, they come with chains to hang them, they plug into an outlet, and have pull-strings to turn them on and off. They light up my garage/tent very well. Because they are directly over the center, I tend to get a lot of shadows under the vehicle, so I have a bunch of little magnetic battery-operated LED lights that I can use for supplemental light.
Ben, do you have a heated garage?? flourescents do not well in the cold but they would be the cheapest way to go. Maybe wire up a couple of spot lights up above on switches that you could throw on when working out there. I would think Led lighting would work in the cold??
No, it's not heated. It's a tuck under so it's usually above freezing, but not always. I'm going to try out Bro's halogen setup first and see how that goes. LED's would probably be great, but I think that would be pretty spendy.
3-4' Flourescents with plugs will be the ticket for ya. I'd do 4-6 of them and you should have moar than enough, but enough when you want "extra" lighting. They make plastic tubes that go over the bulbs that are supposed to help with the cold. I don't honestly know if they work or not, but they are cheap iirc. And yes, your lights have ballasts inside of them.
I did 6, 4' 4 bulb fluorescent fixtures in my 3 stall garage and it works fine. What you can do is just hang the lights on the ceiling, then wire in a cord from the fixture with a male plug on it. From there you can run it right over to your current ceiling lights and just replace the bulbs with a outlet plug adapter. Not the prettiest way of doing it, but it makes things super simple and easy to convert back if needed. Russ
That's what I did in my townhouse. Not pretty but it works, and is helpful given the lack of available outlets in my garage. Mine is a tuckunder that always stays above freezing, but will push around 35-40f in the dead of winter. I haven't had to replace any bulbs in the 3 years they've been up, and I bought the cheapest two bulb fixtures Menards had. They'll take a little bit to get fully bright, but it was a cheap and easy way to light the garage.
pic up a set of these and you can plug in the florescent lamps to them, and have them on your switches.. they are at Menards, home depot.. usually at the back of the lighting section. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...gqpHE_6BPaDltkxHOM9tptXNixx4xRqA0jLDly4UU4rlA
+1 for cheap 4' florescent fixtures. I have 8 2 bulb fixtures in my garage, lights up everything. Since I'm renting, I didn't want anything permanent so I ran extension cords to all of them and have them switched from a power strip by the door, works great even though it's technically not to code.
I think an adapter like that would be perfect with the lights from Bro. Very easy and it will even work with my existing switches.
thats what i did in my apartment rental garage.. it had no plugins... plus having cords hanging all over sux, and 6 extra extension cords and a power strip add a buncha $$ i think those addapters were under $2 each IIRC
along with a flood light like this for underneath... http://www.lulusoso.com/upload/20111031/High_power_outdoor_stand_20W_portable_LED.jpg
I use this setup - two work lights on a detachable stand. Height adjustable and great for the engine bay. The two flood lights also detach and can sit on the floor which is perfect for suspension. They cast a lot of light, are very mobile, and can double as a glove warmer/dryer (although I wouldn't leave them on there too long). They are something like this (they can be had for much cheaper): http://www.menards.com/main/outdoor...-watt-halogen-standlight/p-1449356-c-6405.htm I have been in garages with several fluorescent fixtures, and they are nice if you have enough, because you won't cast a shadow anywhere.
That type of stand light was my plan B, or possibly supplemental lighting. I'll look into the outlet adapters first. I'm hoping to get a several ceiling lights up, and if that isn't enough, I'll add some on stands.
Just a word of caution, these are not grounded nor are they designed to have a lot of power pulled through them, most shop lights require a ground and don't even think about using those 2 to 3 prong adaptors, those are dangerous and should never had been made.
I bought three of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_313520-5865...nt&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=flourescent&facetInfo= And put in 6500k fluorescent tubes. I have a larger two car garage and have them placed over where the engine bay is located when you pull cars in. They come with socket plugs. I ended up re-wiring my garage and adding ceiling mounted electical outlets instead of cutting the plugs off and splicing in. Prolly going to add in a fourth one that will be hidden when the garage door is open, but will help light the rear end with the door closed.
Hardware stores sell 4' and 8' flourescent light fixtures made to operate in cold weather which I believe require non-typical bulbs. Cost for fixture and bulbs is comparable or identical to std fixtures. Realize this is late reply while wanted others to know this since I dealt with similar issues when establishing my garage space. Also, halogens are nice while they give off heat which can be ok in the winter while in the summer this could be an issue for most.
I've taken the halogen work light route and mounted them to the walls of the garage. 2 lights per side using extension cords with a protected power strip. I like the light from the halogens over the fluorescent. Helps to eliminate some shadows with the lights coming in from the side instead of overhead.
Now I'm in a new house, and have a new garage to setup. This one is all just bare studs so it's perfect or configuring to my liking. In my old garage I just ended up using a light stand like this one (Harbor Freight version): I can still use that, but I would like to wire in some permanent lighting before I insulate/drywall everything. Is the consensus that 4' fluorescent lights are the way to go? Should I do (2) two light fixtures per stall? Or more? It's a 3 car garage.
Depends on what work you are trying to do and how old you are...I have a woodworking shop set-up in my garage. If you are doing detail type work, you will need more than two fixtures per stall. I geeked out on my approach and figured out how many foot candles of light I wanted at the most typical height from the floor and then calculated how many bulbs were needed (for me I was seeking 100 ft candles at 3'). Obviously you don't need to do this, but the more detailed stuff you are doing, the more lighting the better. In my 3rd stall I have two 8' fixtures (4 4' bulbs in each) and it is not quite enough as the area under the door is too dark. So I would say go with this as a minimum if you need lighting to do work. If just general walk around lighting is all you are after, you would not need this much...
Thanks for the input. I definitely had not gone as far as calculating how many lumens I would need! I wouldn't be doing any real precise work like you are. Just working on the car. And that would be pretty much in the 3rd stall only. I think I may do extra light in that stall, moderate lighting on the other two bays, and then put a light directly over my workbench in case I need it.
Positioning is key if you're only adding lights for what is necessary. I think a light over the work bench would be a must. I helped Curran hang some lighting in his garage also - ended up with 3 hanging fluorescent fixtures (I think each had two 4' bulbs) - one over the engine bay (but far enough forward so the hood wouldn't shadow the light), and one over each front wheel well (far enough back so it didn't cast a shadow). Just those 3 fixtures in that formation did a ton.
Has anyone looked into LED lighting? Quick check shows Home Depot has something like this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/HomeSele...30?N=25ecodZbvnqZ1z115g2Z1z115g2#.UjxN_6zQeSo These don't look too bad, and seem to be weatherproof.
Wow, (3) two bulb, 4' fixtures just for the front of the car. That is more than I was expecting. I guess I will plan on at least 3 for my "work" bay. The price seems rather high just to get a weatherproof light. I don't think I could justify that.
If I could do it all over again I'd add lights in the walls. Two 6' down the middle, 2 4' down one side (main work bay) and one 4' at the front is alright. re: walls, I prefer sheeting to drywall. Makes putting up shelves, pegboard, small hooks, and anything that doesn't need to line up on a stud a lot easier.
Wall lighting is something I hadn't considered. It seems like it would have to be placed very carefully or it could produce bothersome shadows while working. My dad suggested OSB sheeting instead of drywall. The wall adjoining the house is already drywall. I believe I'm OK to use OSB on the other walls. That may be cheaper and better for hanging things....
Yea, I'd like to say it was overkill, but it really wasn't. Having that light was super convenient...although regardless of what you have it's difficult to cast the light all the way in the wheel well. That's were just on little standing work light is nice for inside the wheel wells or under the car.
Well, I've done a pile of bolt on's, a couple motor swaps, and a few tranny swaps in my old garage with two overhead bulbs (one for each bay) and a small trouble light. I'm sure I can make it work with whatever I end up with, but a well lit work area would be great. I'm liking this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...y-Shoplight-1284GRD-RE/202968125#.Ujxkm9KmhQh I would probably hard mount it and hard wire it. I think a few of those in my work bay would be enough light.
Redid my garage lighting last year after work demoed a office hallway for production area and were going to toss the lighting. So as it sits now this is what is in the garage. 3, 105watt(420watt equivalent) 4100K CFLs. 6,900 lumens each, 20,700 total lumens. and the lights from work 8, 2'x4' 4 bulb troffers with diffusers. 4100K, 2,950 lumen bulbs. 11,800 lumens each fixture, 94,400 total lumens 2, 2'x2' 2 bulb("U" bulbs) troffers with diffusers, 4100K, 2,650 lumen bulbs. 5,300 lumens each fixture, 10,600 total lumens. Had I been buying lights, I would have bought the 6 bulb high bays not the troffers, but free is free. Garage door openers each have 2 lights. 14w 4100K, 600 lumen bulbs. 1,200 lumens each opener, 2,400 total lumens. Total shop lighting is 107,400 lumens of 4100k light. The garage door opener lights are on motion sensors and are active when ever some one is out in the garage. These are more than enough to rummage around the tool box or get stuff out of the cars. The 3 105w CFLs are on the typical "garage light switch" and took the place of 3 300w(2 150watt bulbs) halogen flood lights that put out 4800 lumens per fixture, before that they were a standard 100watt bulbs in each. I thought the 300w halogens were nice, but after the 105w CFLs that actually draw less power, yup the halogens didn't hold a candle to them. These share the same circuit as the garage door openers. These get used for most garage projects and actually would be just fine by many peoples standards for adequate garage shop lighting. They are in porcelain bases(150w rated) with pull chains so you can shut each one off if you wanted to, or you don't want one coming on. All 10 of the troffers are on a dedicated circuit and the same switch. The row of 3 that are above the garage doors when the doors are open are tied to another switch in that that line that can shut them off when the doors are open. Basically a summer and winter mode, all 10 in the winter and just 7 in the summer. No need to have lights on above the garage doors when they are open. Instead of hard wiring all are on grounded cords and outlets were installed. I felt this left more versatility in the future having the outlets. I have actually taken down my trouble lights and given away my 1,000w halogen tripod since redoing the lighting and have not missed them at all. Those who have been over using my garage for projects that started during the day initially have commented on not noticing a difference in light level when walking into the garage from out side during the day and that the level of light was a comfortable working environment. Those who have shown up when it is dark have commented that it is hard to look at when driving up the street(that you have to look at it because it is so bright) or up driveway but feels like being outside during the day once you adjust after the initial shock. I still need to mud, tape and paint the garage which will be an improvement as the rock has yellowed after 2 decades. Pics taken at 200ISO, lights were only on for about 2 minutes so not 100% warmed up. Garage is a mess from too many projects the past couple of weeks with no clean up time: 3, 105watt(420watt equivalent) 4100K CFLs. 10 Troffers. 10 Troffers and 3 105w CFLs It was a mash up of 2700K 6000K 4100K lights before. Having them all one color temp is much easier on the eyes. More daylight, less disco/rave.
Wow, that looks great! I just ordered two of those CFL's you linked. They should be a nice improvement over whatever the bulbs are that are in there now (probably 100W, at the most). I'm still not sure what I'll end up with for all the lighting if/when I redo it, but your setup looks great.
I have a few friends who have replaced their incandescent/halogen bulbs with those Eiko 81184 in their garages and have loved them. 4 bulbs in a two car garage(two above each car(one in front of each hood)) provides a extremely nice working area. One thing to keep in mind, these lights are any thing but compact. They stand almost a foot tall and about 4 inches in diameter. They are big enough that when you open them you are actually worried about breaking them. The typical incandescent is only about 16 lumens per watt. So if you have 2 100w incandescents, you only have about 3,200 lumens being cast. The Eiko 81184 are ~6,900 lumens each. so you will have a little over 4 times the light at roughly the same power usage with the Eiko 81184. Overall my lighting now draws about .4 amps less than the halogen floods, trouble light and tripods I used to run. and I get roughly 12 times the light output. Win win.
Yeah, I noticed in the photo the threading on the bulb seems tiny in comparison to the overall size. I double checked to make sure it was the standard threads. I pulled my Bugeye motor last night and the lighting was pretty terrible. I think just swapping these bulbs will be a great step up until I can get more.
