H6 3.0 - what's the word?

Wife and I found an 01 LL Bean Outback we're considering checking out for a new family truckster. As the title would lead you to believe, it's got the 3.0 H6.

For those a little more familiar with the topic, what are the pros and cons?

Do they suffer from the usual head gasket issues like most everything else?

We both prefer a manual but they only come as an auto - any issues with these (other than probably not as fun to drive)?

Lastly, are there any stupid nit picky, vehicle specific parts that would be hard to find that would make "routine" repairs a headache on something like this? Probably a stupid question but figured I'd cover my butt.

Thanks!
-Cody

 

I'm gonna guess that the H6 used the same auto trans as the H4 of that vintage. Our '02 developed an issue with slow shifting from reverse to drive on a cold start (first of the day) when backing out of the driveway. I was told that it is due to an internal seal that hardens over time and lets fluid bleed out of a passageway. It's a little annoying, but livable if you are aware of the issue - meaning don't back out into heavy, fast moving traffic intending for a fast getaway and wait for the shift before applying large amounts of throttle. My stepdaughter is still driving the car and the issue has not rendered the car unusable - has well north of 200k on it now.

If I remember correctly, the '03 went to a revised front suspension to soften "crashing and banging" over bumps because of customer complaints with earlier years. Only reason I remember is because I sorta regretted being 6 months too soon with making the purchase.

The car also had some issue with headlight failure due to a connector problem at the light and I had to replace a harness pigtail. You first think it is a simple bulb failure, but it isn't and it happens when it is inconvenient to work on it. Not a huge issue, but requires a trip to the dealer for a part.

 

From what ive gathered on the internets, the pros are timing chain vs belt, more power than the 4 cylinder Outbacks, no turbo lag, no head gasket problems.

The cons, tight spaces if you want to do own maintenance, the 3.0 requires premium, automatic transmission only, and gas milage.
Overall the H6 sounds like a pretty reliable engine. I would take the 6 cylinder Outback over the 4 any day.

 

Spark plugs are a PITA, and the H6 is more known for leaky valve cover gaskets vs head gaskets. Also, make sure the idler pulley tensioner bearing is in good shape. Depending on where the car spent its previous life, I would keep an eye on suspension components. LCA bushings, end links, etc. Pretty much most of the same issues you would expect to come across on any Subaru of that generation. Other than that, they are pretty damn reliable. Best of all, they hold their value!

 

I love the first gen ('01-04) EZ30D. I went out of my way to find one (I specifically looked for a VDC model, as they have true AWD more like a manual transmission, instead of the front-biased setup of almost all the other 4EATs).

There's a TSB for a TPS that can cause transmission issues without throwing a code, and Subaru has an updated replacement part, so if you need one, go OE.

Serpentine belt pulley bearings seem to have a history of failing catastrophically with little to no warning, and if the idler goes, it wrecks the A/C compressor bracket that it's attached to. Replace them preventatively. Most sources will want to sell you a complete tensioner, but it's possible to replace the pulley or even just the bearing (what I did). More info here

They're not immune to head gasket issues, and when they do, it's the more common (not-subaru) symptoms of mysterious/intermittent overheating under load and such, not an external leak. Take it for a fairly long test-drive, preferably with a pretty good hill to climb.

91 octane is recommended. It will run fine on low octane, but will start harder in the winter. I generally run ours on 89 (as most stations only have 91 in non-oxygenated...).

There's a steel coolant pipe that runs in front of the oil pan from the water pump to the oil cooler (many 4-cylinders have this as-well), that's fairly common to rust out. There's also one that runs back under the LH head and then up the back to the heater hoses.

The splash guard on these cars covers the entire bottom of the engine bay, and has an absorbant mat on it. I'd highly recommend pulling it off so you can really inspect the bottom of the engine for leaks.



Generally speaking, the 6s require less maintenance, but when they do it's more difficult/expensive.

 

Appreciate the insight, gentlemen. Still undecided about this thing overall. Going to look at a 2.5/5mt 2000 Outback Limited tomorrow.

 

Is that TSB limited to the H6? I have a slow shifting issue from reverse to drive as well in my 01 Forester. Just gotten used to it.

 

Yep, only the 6s

And primarily causes delay in kickdown and such while driving, not so much the reverse-to-drive delay

 

Did you make a decision yet?

 

Not really. Long story short, the WRX is quickly approaching 200k. And with a slight noise going on in the heart of it, we're not totally sure how much longer she'll be with us.

Short story long, the dilemma we're in is we're kinda shooting for something along the lines of a mid 00's Denali (my choice, at least) that would make a big enough family vehicle yet still capable of hauling something (aka, trailer).

In the meantime, we're trying to wrap up her remaining student loan and are trying to put our monies towards that at the moment. The WRX is currently our nicest vehicle, and we've got a couple back up beaters (none of which are great "family friendly" options long term).

So now it's like, a) do we spend a little money now, buy something that's most likely gonna be a bandaid and see how it goes, or b) do nothing and continue down the road we're on, meanwhile crossing fingers that the WRX makes it through winter at least. I don't really wanna end up buying another cheap turd just to get by, since we've already got a few of those in the quiver. The sooner we get the student loans gone the sooner our family vehicle budget starts building.

Sorry to get overly personal, but that's just what's going on.

 

I've thought about it, but not sure what we'll do yet. Assuming probably $3k or so for a rebuild if I find a short block and use pretty much everything else from mine. But then I'm still sitting with a hail damaged, salvage titled, rusty quartered, 200k mile chassis and original 5 spd.

 

You make that sound like such a bad thing.

 

I'd love to when the money's there. I personally don't dig the 06/07 front ends, but the ones a few years newer than that have really grown on me lately after having a wagon. Of course the money goes up the newer you get, too. That and all of my aftermarket stuff wouldn't be compatible. Not sure what'll happen. Maybe just drive the WRX until she croaks, take all my "stuff" off that's worth keeping and set it aside for another one in the future.

 

Henry is going to need a first car sooner than you think my friend. Time goes by quick.

 

^^This.

Coming from a place of experience, student loans suck as the interest rates are generally high. Assuming your WRX isn't nearing catastrophic failure, I'd keep running that thing until the student loans are paid off. A few repairs at a couple hundred each is still cheaper than a newer car, taxes, etc.