Heres the deal. i just wired in ignition timing using the crank shaft positioning sensor, and well. my car isnt to fond of it. when i have been driving it will randomy stall on me. normally this occurs at low RPMs. but other then tha i could be idling or driving. the tach just drops to 0. i just redid all the wiring and all of my connections and the problem is still there. when the car dies it will throw a CEL for p0335 which is crankshaft positioning sensor A circuit malfunction. any ideas?
Could it be wired backwards??? The two wires into the control unit from the crank sensor switched or the two going to the PCM. (I assume this is what a "wired in ignition timing" is?) A crank sensor out of phase (time) with the cam sensor will also set this code.
I assume he means his perfect power I followed him home the other night, and it'll run for maybe 10 minutes, but more like 5, die, usually at a stop sign, but it did it once while moving. and it'll have to sit for a few minutes before it'll restart when it won't restart, sometimes it'll fire, come up to idle, and die again. and it won't fire again unless the ignition is turned completely off, like something has to be reset. Martin, did you fix the front O2 sensor code? EDIT: it is his PP6, and his O2 is fixed. he's trying the new crank sensor as we speak.
ok, i supose io gotta clarify some stuff. frist off i am using the SMT6 perfect power. i am using the crankshaft positioning sensor signal to modify timing. as chux said the car would randomly die. it hapened to me a couple times today, when i was parked idling, and also when i was putzing around my driveway. i already went through all my connections and re soldered them. i just replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor, w/ a new napa one. and the car is idling outside as we speak. if this sensor doesnt fix it i think i might just re-wire the thing straight from the sensor right into the ecu, bypassing the factory plugs and wires. that would knock out any chance of the oem wiring being the problem. but this is my last resort. i am gonna go check for any blown fuses or thigns of that nature right now.
it did this once a few days ago then ran perfectly fine after giving it 5 minutes to cool down. now the car wont start, so uhh i got alot of work to do. here is what i was thining before it stopped starting. i have to have the piggy back set to read the low level input that the crank sensor is sending while it is at low RPM (basscailly while starting), but at normal runnign rpms the signal comign through the line is tooo hot, so i needed to install a 330 ohm resistor between the crank signal wire and a ground. i did this and it seemed to be working. until the other day. so i am wondering if the resistor is the wrong size and not allowing enough or allwogin too much voltage to go to ground. i am also curious if the ground is too niosy if some of the excess voltage in the ground is travelling back through the resisitor and causing my problem. these were my main ideas, until the car stopped starting. i was also stating above that i was thinking of directly wiring the signal from the crank sensor (which i just replaced with a new one) to the ECU/piggyback this wont workl cuased there is a unit i would bypass that the cam posiitoning sensor conects too. the next thing i am planning on doing is setting all the crank stuff back to stock. but now having timing control worries me.
i disconected all of the timing stuff, and it runs. i only went around the block once (it took two laps aroudn teh block for it to die before) but i dont really want to be drivng around int he slush, plus there seem to be alot of cops out so i cut my test run short. hehe so hopefully this fixes it. i will have to do some more research into the timing control
I'm glad to hear you got it going again....and narrowed down a little.... if it makes any difference, I didn't have any better luck, we snapped a valve cover bolt off in nates head.....and spent a couple hours trying to get it out, and now I hear that the EZ out broke too....
around 11 or so i ran out to the local bait shop and back around 1.5 miles and no issues. hopefully it stays that way
drove the car about 50 miles today. it runs fine, it has been giving me all the usual crap (MAF sensor is messed up) but other then that no signs of cranksensor goobers.
try cleaning the hot wire (in the maf) with carb and choke cleaner, mine gets dirty all the time and starts idling/performing like crap. just spray the hell out of it! IT WILL be hard starting right after you do it though, just an fyi. maf sensors dont sort of go bad, they either work or dont.
interesting i will keep that in mind. IMO my MAF problems are casued by two things. 1. a slightly dirty maf (stupid salty roads) and 2. using the maf signal to adjust fueling (ECU prolly doesnt like this). ie i am adding lots of fuel at low rpms, while the ecu wants stioch so its a battle of the PP6 and the ecu. so far my soloution is that when it starts to bog down and wants to die i just give it tons of gas, once it revs up and hit a recent RPM (5k or so) it will run fine. only issue w/ this fix is its kinda loud.
I second the cleaning of the wire! Don't touch the wire with anything though! Just spray it off and let it dry. Re-install and you should be good to go, well as good as you were before anyway.
