Homemade EJ22G?

i am kinda curious what all woud be involved in creating your own ej22g (22b motor)? it doent apear too hard. since you get a base of a legacy turbo block which has the same bore (96.9) x Stroke (75) as the 22b, and has the same compression (8:1). so as far as i can tell the only difference is the 22bs DOHC heads vs. the SOHC heads on the legacy. then there is some minor stuff like the oil squirters that the legacy has and the 22b has. supposedlyt he 22b had something done to the throw out bearing, i cant quite remember what it was. does any one know? and does any one know what the advantage / disadvantage of that modded throw out bearing is?


so if you take the legacy turbo block and strap on some nice say Ver. 4 STi Type R heads (rumored to be the same as 22b heads) and get a JDM ecu or standalone, you should be rockin right?

 

sounds like i need to find some heads for my block :biggrin:
stuid SOHC low flow legacy heads....

are folding rear seats special or something? my seats fold down all day long...

 

readymix already called it but to make an EJ22G you need to bore out an EJ20G not an EJ22T. The 22T block is still not fully closed like the 20G block is, the coolant passages are much bigger.

It's been done, but nobody goes with ancient, worse flowing heads. Its better to get v7+ heads.

 

22B, 22T all those block are a HUGE waste imo if your not going for BIG power. There are easier/cheaper options out there.

 

so who's wrong and who's right? i'm confused.

 

^ true dat. thats the same website i used to find the specs. i have seen multiple people say the bore was 96.9 maybe they are wrong. the point is that the ej22t hsa the same bore/stroke as the 22b.

i know that the ej22t is not the ej22g. there are many differences. such as the oil squirters, that throw out bearing thing i mentioned, and as zak said the cylinder reinforcements are different. the point of using the older ej22t block is that they are fairly easy to find, and much cheaper then getting a ej20g block (which can be hard to find or more expensive) and get that bored. as for the V4 heads / ecu. i have some connections in japan. i hadnt really thought about using the wrx heads, just slipped my mind. but i think it would be kinda neat to have actual ver4 heads.

the idea behind this is not to get HUGE power like some crazy people on here are going for *cough*Rich*cough* but to get decent power (300hp range) while not going hog wild and doing 2.35l and what not. essentaily i want nice power with a 2.2l.

question are wrx heads DOHC? or are the only dohc usdm heads 98 RSs? and will JDM DOHC cams fit in those heads?

i dont know, it was an idea.

 

WRX heads are all DOHC.

 

hmm.... so if i went with something USDM for heads (DOHC) what would be the one to go with? wrx? STi? will 2.5l heads affect the displacement any?

this idea seems to be teh win!

EJ22T block w/ USDM DOHC heads P&P(yet to be determined), possibly JDM STI cams (or aftermarket), new vavves/springs/retianers (titanium?). new internals (OEM forged or maybe aftermarket. what needs to be done to get new internals balanced for high revs?) USDM WRX ecu and wiring (if wrx heads?) cobb ap +protune????.

very interesting. assuming i could run the WRX ecu i suspect i would have way more reliability vs w/ a standalone. think an AP w/ pro tune could handle it or whould something else be needed? utech? or am i getting into the scary hydra area?

 

EJ257 + WRX heads FTW

 

^

EJ20g ~ 1000

EJ22T ~ 500

EJ22E ~ 150

EJ22T FTW!

 

EJ257 - EJ22T = Ej20G + EJ22E

ok enough subie math. you think that setup sounds reasonable?

 

ok heres another question. using a ej22t bock w/ USDM wrx heads, what timing belt would you use?

 

now isnt there a special STi timing belt that is make of some wierd kevlar composite or something? is it worth it to get this belt over a normal stocker?

 

greddy makes the kevlar belt, i wouldn't think it would that much better than a subaru one, i believe they are over 100 bucks though.

 

Power Enterprise also makes a stronger timing belt, that has no markings on it so it is more difficult to install. It also has the added bonus of being really expensive.

 

My EJ22T looks as closed deck as can be. There is no room to make the coolant passages any smaller. A socket barley slides in there to get the four bolts that hold the block together.

The 22b motor is of a phase II design with the closed deck like the EJ22T and the EJ20G. Therefore it has the better oiling system (no need for squirters) and an end thrust bearing, as opposed to the center thrust like my EJ22T.


I'm holding out on the updated heads, and hoping the Delta cams will help out. Eventually I'm gonna go with newer heads, but they will be accompanied by a larger turbo(GT30R or GT3071R), injectors and of course, a divorced wastegate. STi 2.0L heads with AVCS would be nice...

The EJ22T bottom end is good to about 350 hp, but why not upgrade when pistons and rods can be had for around $800-900. Plus balancing shouldn't be that big of a deal. I paid $75 to get my bottom end plus flywheel and pressure plate balanced. He was gonna charge me $125, but the crank was perfect, and the Wiseco pistons were all within .5 grams so all he had to mess with was the rods (Eagle), flywheel and p. plate(stock STi). Damn I love the economy up here.

We'll see how these old heads flow with those cams. I hope they help up top because I got the .86 A/R on the turbine section of my GT2871R. Boost should come on real early either way.

 

^ sweet.

where did you get the pistons and rods from? i want to get wiseco (or better yet TWE) pisotns, with eagle rods, and a new crank. where did you get them balanced at? and to what RPMs?

 

I got the pistons through importperformanceparts.net They were about $460 for the pistons, which come with rings, pins, and circlips, and they have the moly coating on the skirts. The thing is, you need to bore either .020 or .040 over, as you have a choice of which ones you want. I went with .020 over, since I didn't want to cut too much out of the sleeves. My rods I got off of eBay for just over $300. I know they can be bought from a regular vendor for <$350. I'm at school right now so I don't have all my links in front of me that I found.


As far as the balancing goes, I got it done by Joe Blackwell. He is listed in the machine shops section of the yellow pages up here. I'm not shure about what RPM its balanced to. Its not a computerized balance. Archer goes to him for alot of their stuff, so I'm not too concerned about his ability. 4 bangers are WAY easier to balance than a V10.


My machine work was all done at Midwest Engine Rebuilders here in town. They hot-tanked the block, bored it, checked the deck, hot-tanked it again, honed it, cleaned the heads, pressure tested them, rebuilt them with valves I supplied (since the exhaust valves were pretty burnt), and decked the heads. I also got my main and rod bearings through them (Clevite 77). The total came to $370.

DO NOT go to the dealer for engine bearings. For the rod bearings alone. they want over $250 :eek3: The Clevites were like $6.50 apiece, and I'm pretty shure they are OEM. They are made in Japan, and you know Clevite isn't gonna make the tooling for bearings that they aren't gonna sell alot of. Just like any other automaker, I'm shure Subaru gets their bearings from an outside manufacturer, which is probably where Clevite gets these from. The main bearings were only $37, and look exactly the same as the old ones I pulled out.

 

^ lotsa good info! thanks.

 

+1 for shizzle

 

Midwest Engine Rebuilders
732 E 4 St
Duluth, MN 55805 - 2058

(218) 723-1651


These guys also do good work, and should be in the same ballpark pricewise.

PDQ Engine & Machine Inc
3001 W Superior St
Duluth, MN 55806 - 1749

(218) 628-0293

Thats just the economy up here. Miller Hill Subaru (also Chrysler, Jeep, Mazda) is getting $70-75 and hour, as opposed to the $100 an hour they get in the cities. Housing is also cheap up here. $200k can buy you ALOT of house up here. I pay $300 a month for a beautiful house with 4 other people.

Don't forget, I brought them the exhaust valves. So that was another $80. I wanted better vavles than stock replacements, but they aren't availible off the shelf for EJ22T heads. When I update the heads someday, I'll get Inconel valves. If there's lots of miles on a set of turbo heads, replacing the exhaust valves is a given.

Both of them go through Joe Blackwell for balancing, but I brought it up to Joe myself to save some loot.

 

I just brought them the block, heads minus cams & rockers, and the pistons, which are needed if you are boring the block. I had them order the main bearings after everything else was done and he cleaned up my crank for me. Midewest is kindof a whole in the wall place. The basement of what used to be a autoparts store up top. PDQ is on the west end.



What are shops geting down there? My friend who is a mechanic at tires plus in Eagan said he sent off some 6.0L Chevy heads to get redone and their cost was $700. Ouch.

 

wonder if we could do a group buy on their services lol.

 

In late fall i'd probably be looking to bore my block and have it refinished along with assembly with a new set of heads. But not looking until oct/novermberish.

 

lets see if i can get my parts together. if i can i will have a block and a set of heads to be done. i wonder if we can get a deal? it might suck bringing up liek 4 blocks lol.

 

I got lots of space. and will be taking trips back and forth between the cities and duluth quite a bit towards the end of summer, you guys make the arrangements, and I'd be more than happy to do a little transporting.

 

chuxwagon is gonna be loaded w/ lotsa power lol. watch chux run off with like 3 or 4 closed deck blocks and a couple sets of heads lol.

just messin, but it would be kinda funny.