Does anybody know how the center differential on a subaru go out? Specifically earlier models - 95- 2000 models. Automatic What's the best way to fix it and how much would it be for parts? Any possibilities of welding it to synchronize? I was reading some info on other threads, differential clutch plates??? $300 for the parts, Center diff can break if front tires are abnormally different from the rear tires? My 95 manual legacy is fine but i'm planning on buying a 97 legacy sedan with "front wheel drive"- the guy said that his center diff is busted.
the 4EAT system uses a clutch pack to transfer the power to the rear. they wear out. but can be replaced.
And manuals use viscous coupling style center diff, they also go bad, but are fairly easy to replace.
I recently replaced the clutch pack in the center differential in my 2005 RS. The previous owner ran old nearly bald tires in the rear with new tires in the front which destroyed the plates fairly quick. It cost me $168 to do it myself. Plates -$102 Tail Housing Gasket - $5 Exhaust Gaskets - $10 Tranny Fluid - $31 I don't think welding it would be a good idea. I have no basis for this, but it seems like a bad idea to me... I was able to do all the work in a day. Drop the exhaust, remove drive shaft, remove tail housing, replace plates, put it back together. The tail housing was tough to get off of the transmission, and took awhile, plus you always run into stuck/rusted bolts. Good luck!
Any body have any interesting opinions on how a front wheel drive 97 subaru legacy will over all run? summer driving of course, MPG effected? It's the 2.5 Liter
i have a auto trans (awd) for the easy way to fix it, as long as you can drop a tranny well now reading this again im not sure what trans you need..
sorry for the confusion, let me change up the words around, Any body have any interesting opinions on how a busted center differential Subaru overall feels like, rear wheel drive and front wheel drive summer driving and winter driving, MPG effected? On 2.5 liter engines and on automatic
I am assuming this runs in FWD because the spare tire fuse was used... it would be a bad idea to run it this way for an extended amount of time. If you are going to buy it, fix the differential.
I was planning to buy this locally on craigslist, http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/1640885045.html If he lets it go for $1800 for both winter and summer set of tires, I will probably get it. $200 for fixing the center diff and then I'll have to save another $1000 just in case the transmission goes out. Engine is rebuilt by the dealership, I talked to fuji the other day about how 2.5 liter engines around the years of 97-99 have leaking engine seals causing the engine to overheat Engine should last awhile if it's rebuilt hopefully. I'm still planning to do a massive spring overhaul fix out on my 95 manual subaru legacy but i'll save that for a different thread later on, my legacy still runs but i'm a bit worried when it's gonna quit, so it's always safe to have a back up car.
If you do need a new tranny I have a 03' WRX 4EAT ill sell you 800$ for everything but the TQ converter.
Wow. what's going on in here? he fixed his first post. he's talking about a car with an AWD and Automatic. but the center "diff" is screwed up and it's now only FWD. this is very common, and is a result of the clutch packs wearing out. the Autos give 100% torque to the front wheels all the time, and the computer just adds power to the rear end on top of that once the front starts to slip. once those clutch packs are wore out, they just slip, and no power is transferred. drop the exhaust and driveshaft. pull the rear housing off the trans (8 bolts?), replace the clutch packs, re-assemble. It will NOT hurt the trans in any way to drive it as-is. you just won't have AWD. you will probably see a minute mpg increase on dry pavement as there's a tiny bit less drag since that clutch pack cannot engage. But, driveshaft, rear axles, and rear diff are all still spinning, so it's not actually a FWD car. as for the engine. yes, '97 2.5s (EJ25D) have head gasket issues. DO NOT make the mistake of thinking a dealer-"rebuilt" engine is fixed. the Factory recommended head gasket repair done at any dealership is not adequate. They do not pull the engine out of the car, they do not replace both headgaskets unless they are both failed (and if they were both failed, the owner waited too long and probably damaged the motor), and the heads are not checked (beyond visually) for warping or cracking. in order to properly fix the 25D head gasket issue, the leak has to be detected/repaired early (with a used car, you have no way to know this). BOTH heads have to be sent to a machine shop and inspected for warping and pressure tested for leaking. BOTH gaskets have to be replaced. and the install has to be perfect (possible, but not easy with the engine in the car). I don't mind the 2.5s, but I would never buy one that has been fixed.
