ok i did a bit of a search on hear, got nothing than went over to Nasioc and found a little. kind of surprising but any ways i wanted to know and hear how to properaly break in a new turbo engine. I am willing to hear all views let me know what you got. a lot of people say take it slow and baby it and some say dont do that because nothing will set and can acctually loose some engine life if to careful. Iam curious in what oil to use, how many miles to put on it, how much boost, the whole shabang.... thanks guys
sounds wrong, but if tis NOT run hard in the first 150-300 miles the rings will never seat correctly. What I have always done is taken it up to redline from brief bursts throughout the break in period. Try not to drive an average speed, vary your speed. Dino oil works well for the first 1-2k miles, actually promotes scuffing in of the hone and seating the rings, after that I switch to synthetic.
Don't cruise for long periods on the highway at a constant speed during break in, city driving is best for breaking in a new engine. Don't push it too hard, but 80% every once in a while will help in the long run. Drive it that way for a few months and then let it rip.
I have heard two versions of this and do not know which is correct. Both versions say take it easy for the first 300 miles making sure to varythe rpm range a lot. First version says that you need to continue doing that for the first 1000 miles. Taking it easy on the car but mixing up the range the engine is operating in. Second version says after the first 300 miles drive it like your going to after break in. The people that claim this second version say that if you do the first version you will loose 10hp in the long run. Again I do not know which is correct, if either, but these are the two versions that I have heard a number of times.
All you need for the rings to seat is heat. If you can the engine up to temp for extended periods of time thats all it will take to get the rings to seat.
Usually the engines are tested before they put it in the car don't they? (like they run them to get numbers and stuff) i could be wrong.
Your rings should seat within the first 100 miles if not sooner. I basically followed what esperunit typed up. Dyno results seem to show it worked well.
Dont let Justin drive it.... !!! drive normally..... would be my suggestion... dont beat on it for the first 1000 or so.....I always thought that driving on the highway at a constant rpm wasnt good for breaking in puposes, but ,ixign up the driving style ie around town, short burst etc... now I am confused trying to remember what I was taught years back... time for 2nd morning coffee...
I'm still running dino oil. Is it some sort of piece of mind thing that everyone likes to run synth, or have people seen quasi-consitant results of engines running dino blow up?
Run it easy the first 1000 miles and don't make any runs to redline the first 500 miles. I've read this numerous places and even the evo forums have owners that follow that crap the motoman (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) supposedly says works (and I know it doesn't due to previous honda builds). Hell even subaru recomends an easy break-in, who are you gonna trust a grease monkey like motoman or the people who designed and built your engine?
Pretty much everyone here does things to their car that Subaru would not exactly recommend. I don't know why people choose to take that one page of the owner's manual as gospel. They operate in CYA mode; they can't exactly tell people to go screaming off the lot redlining the hell out of it in case some doofus blows up the engine, wrecks the car, or whatever.
what about application of boost. how much and when? thanks guys just trying to make sure i dont put any money to waste when things are all sad and done.
Well that would depend on the size of the turbo and the actual wastegate spring. I certainly wouldn't want to run up to the max WG pressure on something like a gt30r with a 15psi spring, hehehe. I'd suggest to keep it under 7psi and then gradually begin to increase it after 500 miles. I've also read that a good way to really seat rings is to find a nice steep hill, and let the car engine brake down it in 2nd gear to create a bunch of vacuum.
Here's my plan, you can take it for what it's worth. 0-100 miles: Little to no boost, around town driving. Regular Mobil1 Drive Clean 5000 oil. Dump oil and filter at 100 miles. 100-500 miles: Wastegate pressure on the boost. Keep it under 4500 rpms. Still in town driving. Vary your engine speeds, downshift and up shift often, and use LIGHT engine braking when coming to a stop. Regular Mobil1 DriveClean 5000. Dump oil and filter at 500 miles. 500-1000: Vary engine speeds, but occasionally bring it up to around 6000 rpms or so. Don't redline it, just get a little more aggressive with it. Still continue the varying engine speeds and engine braking when possible. At 1000 miles, change oil, check for metal deposits in oil (it should still be pretty clean) if you see anything unusual, change oil at 1500 and 2000 to ensure no particulates are in there. If the oil is good at 1000 miles, I would begin running Shell Rotella T Synthetic in 5w40. (16 bucks a gallon at WalMart ) Use a 200:1 mix of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank, not for the cleaning effects, but instead to lube and cool the piston crown edge and the piston ring.
That's a good idea, Tom, do you guarantee it will work? I writing preferably. I'd like to know if your plan comes with a warranty work repair for free.
I would run plain old valvoline dino oil for the first 500-1000 miles. you want to wear the hone a little at that point and seat the rings, the synthetic can be a little too slick. I don't care what people say, I've rebuilt motorcycle engines and I've yet to see one that this engine break in process did not produce solid results on, on the same metal type engines and types of cylinders and pistons.
ok good to know. i will end up doing a basic recap of waht every one has been telling me. thanks guys.
subaru recommends going 1000 miles with varying RPMs, and keeping the RPMS low (under 4k or maybe 3?) i have heard other people say that you should puch it to the limit. i have also heard that doing x pulls to xrpms x times on a dyno, will seat the rings better than city driving. the argument comes down to this. pushing it hard will seat the rings better (people have photographic proof) and give slighly more power. however who knows if the motor will last as long as one whch was broken in slowly, and nicely.
ok really DUMB question here but, if you take apart all the electrical stuf when you build a new engine does you millage reset? or is there a way that you can reset it? I can imagen that it would be very illegale but didnt know for sure. and it would be nice if it did. it's just nice to see 0 miles on the new engine instead of the old 106,000.
you will need to send out the cluster to gt it wiped. there is place in CO or AZ or somewhere that will set the odo in your subie to what ever you want.
yeah true. they do stink, maybe it's not worth it who knows i guess i will decied when the time comes
