What's the best way to check or meter my A/F ratio? Do many of you run a A/F meter in your car to keep things in check?
I am running AFR gauge. I am using the innovative motorsports LC-1. w/a bosch 5 wire. it works great. what you can do depends on how much you wanna spend. you can get needle gauges fairly cheap but they arnt as accurate as a digital gauge. the most expensive part will be the wideband sensor, you could use the OEM sensor w/ the gauge but you will only show the area between like 13:1 and 17:1. if you want free, you can just check your plugs it very inaacurate but will tell you if your lean or rich.
I think you can use ECUExplorer to get AFR from your stock sensors. http://www.tari.co.za/ I have the software and the cable, but I hadn't had time to try it out much on my car, so I can't really say how well it works. I can bring my laptop down to firestone sometime if anyone wants to try it out.
Like stated above, the most accurate way to check afr is by using a wbo2. I guess my question to you is, what are you trying to do?? Are you looking to tune your car?? Just see what it runs?? I have a wbo2 with the tailpipe sniffer that I can pretty much throw into any car in about 5 min. I guess if I know what you are trying to accomplish, it will be a little easier to answer your question. Russ
Russ, what do you know about how the WB02 works? I had some questions I asked on the Nasioc boards and I got mixed responses. Specificly the Bosch LSU-4
I just went to Cobb AP Stage 2 and I am interested to check out the new AFR. Also, I have a K&N typhoon setup in my garage and I want to throw it on. I know there are about 2 bazillion things saying not to do it, but there are also people out there that say its fine. I want to just throw it on, but I care about my car more than that. I'd like to throw it on and really see what it is doing to my AFR's. Plus, it's always nice to just know what is going on inside the engine.
Well, I guess you can hook up a wbo2 to your car and see what the afr is. Then install the K&N and re-check the afr and see what the difference is. Is the k&n on the cobb list of approved intakes?? Jason, what did you need to know? Russ
Oh c'mon! A K&N is worth like 150 horsepower or more. And once you install Split-Fires, you'll be making mad power! "Move over Enzo, I've got a Civic with a K&N CAI!"
Bikerwriter knows whats up... I had it in this fall and right before I SUCKED IN A COUPLE OF GALLONS WATER through my CAI and hydrolocked my engine, I was doing 4 wheel burnouts into 5th gear and struggling with blacking out on take off due to the G-forces. So correct me if I'm wrong, but if I were to get a Autometer gauge for example, would that just hook up into my pre-existing 02 sensor? And that wouldn't work that well?
The LSU has 5 active wires correct? Two of them are a switched voltage for the heating element. There are 3 outputs I believe. One of them I believe is a voltage comparison circuit output of lambda, I'd have to look up what hte other two do. The HKS CAMP junction box allows for the connection of a WBo2 to display AFRs. I want to know if there is a way to provide that switched voltage from a wideband O2 controller for the heater, but have the outputs go to the HKS CAMP for display.
Your stock O2 sensor is narrowband, and just doesn't have the resolution needed to give you useful AFR information under load. You want to know how you are doing between 10.5:1 and 11.5:1 for most road-going WRXs that aren't guzzling race gas, using water injection, or any other aggressive things. The narrowband sensor only gives you a peek between 12:1 and leaner, anything less than that and it just throws up its hands says "rich".
So the autometer option is just to look good for the ladies. If I want something useful, I need to install a wideband 02 sensor?
^^^Correct. the autometer gauge is just a dancing light show (unless you are talking about the wbo2 they have). I guess I would source someone in the club that has one (me) and do some before and after testing. if you really want your own wbo2, I would go with the innovative lm-1 or lc-1. if you are not planning on doing any tuning, i would just contact a local with one. jason, I will check. i don't think it will work cuz the output of the sensor is not a 0-5v output. I am guessing that you will need a sensor controller with a 0-5v output to hook up to the camp system. Russ
i agree, a AFR gauge w/ out wideband is a expensive and annoying light show. i have the innovative LC-1 in my car if you wanna take alook some time let me know. i am very hapy with it. but if you arnt going to be tuning you prolly would need such an expensive gauge.
basicly you use a bosch or a vw wbo2 sensor and some manufacturer's shiney bits to read/log the results. turboxs has the tuna, eam has whatever they call theirs.... the trick is getting one and having a way to log the readings.... for me, having the utec, it's nice having the wb readings embeded into the utec logs... after i go to AP for this next dyno day i dono what to do. i'm halfway thinking keep the utec installed in passive mode just for logging, launch control, and valet mode.
^^^ you should buy the street tuner and a lm1, than you will have almost the same setup as the utec (programable) and a system that can log the afr. Thats why I switched over to the lm1, I can log with the protuner software, and I can still log afr with the utec (using a 3rd party software). Russ
Also, Calvin (the guy behind the TARI software) is planning to add support for wideband sensors in the near future.
Can you point me in the direction of this sensor controller? There are lots of sensors out there. But I want one that is no frills, just takes inputs from the sensor and gives me usable outputs. The CAMP does data logging and graphing already.
i also believe the XD01 wideband standlaone kit, can be used to datalog. mine came w/ software for logging.
I believe the same goes for the LM-1 kit. The downside to this is that without a tuna or streettuner, you cannot integrate the wbo2 info with the rest of your logs. It's nice to see your afr data right alongside timing, boost, kc, rpms, etc.
I kinda found what I'm looking for. The diagrams in the japanese instruction manual look very similar to WB02 setups I've seen before. I have a feeling one of them might look familiar to you, Russ. If you are going to be at FS tomorrow, I'll bring the manual so you can have a look-see and help me identify what unit they are trying to draw.
Bumpity bump.... Would something like this work? http://www.hybridconnection.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=149_170_322_361_1006&products_id=114 I'd like someway to be able to moniter it a bit while driving, so either a gauge or a computer hookup, heck if I could do a wideband just to my laptop that would probably be perfect. what about this kit? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-standalone-gauge-xd16-p-121.html The sites I linked to are just a very quick google search, I do not plan on ordering from these site for say, not yet anyway. I'm a bit confused maybe all I'd need then is the LC-1 cable thingy http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-digital-wideband-controller-with-sensor-p-41.html That I think would just hook up to my laptop.?
Yes, the lc-1 just hooks up up to your computer, and is probably the cheapest way to get into a wbo2. If I were you, I would order from Innovative instead of going 3rd party (all the prices will be the same). Russ
Thanks, yeah I did a little checking last night when I had some spare time, and I'm sure your right, I'll buy it straight from them, sounds like a fair amount of people have had some issues with them.
i was looking at this one. might be more than i need though. i just want to log to a computer. http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm
you also want to remeber that if you can get the vw sensor, that it will save you ALOT of money. I think the vw sensors go for around $35-$36 shipped. Russ
it looks like the lc-1 with out a sensor is 149 and with one is 199. so you only save ~14-15 dollars if you buy the vw instead? or am i missing something.
Well, the lc-1 and the lm-1 use the vw sensor, and the zeitronix I believe uses the other bosch sensor. the vw sensor goes for under $40 shipped, and the other bosch goes for right around $150 or so. So if you ever need a replacement/spare sensor, the vw sensor will save you alot of money. Russ
Yup I have a buddy at work running a lm1 he buys 02 sensors from the VW dealers. The kit justin posted will work with the VW 02 sensor is what your saying... the display set up isn't too bad either, I like that a bit better than a the gauges I've seen.